I30 Bose Speaker

I recently purchased a 2000 Infiniti I30 and discovered after closing the deal that no sound is issuing from the rear speaker (above the back seats). I checked the fade setting and the wiring and everything looks good...just no sound.

Does anyone have any advice on how to correct the problem?

Thanks!

No sound suppose to come out of that speaker....thats a subwoofer...just gives off Bass...

No sound suppose to come out of that speaker....thats a subwoofer...just gives off Bass...

Bass is still sound. But, as was mentioned, it is a woofer. If the overall sound has no bottom end, then check the wires in the trunk. So if all things are right and nothing is coming out, you may end up replacing it.

Sidebar: Bose in-dash systems are not powered. The power is at the speakers with a built-in amp, i.e. speaker and amp as one unit. At least it's that way in the back. I haven't pulled the ones out of the door.

Hey thanks for the input!

I did check the wiring in the back and it looks good as far as I can tell - still no sound...bass or otherwise.

I hate to think about replacing the speakers but it may come to that.

Any recommendations on sources to obtain the speaker and/or the amp?

Again, I appreciate your help.

Slade

I ha

I have no doubt it will be insultingly expensive. Personally, I looked around for a wrecked car you can strip.

SLADE... It's funny that you should mention this problem because I experienced the same w/my 2000 model. Just as SKYTORCH mentioned it would probably be best that you do look around for a wrecked I30... until then here is what I did to alleviate the problem... REMEMBER THIS SHOULD ONLY BE SHORT TERM!!!!!!!! If you are familiar with aftermarket installations... the main three wires for a power amp are the ground, the power wire and the remote wire which allows the on/off switch to pass current to the amplifier. Under your rear deck resides a small circuit board covered with foam. There should be an orange wire [B+], a black wire [ground] and a blue wire [remote: on/off]. On this circuit board there are two resistors, three diodes and a black box. The black box is your on/off switch for the BOSE amplifier that powers your sub. Before bypassing this box you need to ensure that it is recieving 12vdc with the car off and or 13.25 vdc with the car running. Only perform this task if you are familiar with the use of a multimeter to check the voltage. Voltage should always be present on the side of the switch where the power wire [orange] is in the middle of the configuration. If voltage is present on the other side of the switch, you might have a more serious porblem that could be either your amp or your sub. As for me it was the switch [F&T P1CNO12W] which I am desperatly searching for. I just removed mine and connected the color matched wires from the opposite end of the circuit board. REMEMBER THIS SHOULD ONLY BE SHORT TERM -- REMOVING THIS SWITCH WILL ALLOW POWER TO CONTINUOUSLY BE PRESENT AT YOUR BOSE AMP AND IF YOU DO NOT DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE DAILY - YOU RISK THE CHANCE OF DRAINING YOUR BATTERY! GOOD LUCK!!!

I recently purchased a 2000 Infiniti I30 and discovered after closing the deal that no sound is issuing from the rear speaker (above the back seats). I checked the fade setting and the wiring and everything looks good...just no sound.

Does anyone have any advice on how to correct the problem?

Thanks!


This is is the easiest...I was told that you have to bypass the whole system because each speaker is powered by its own amp...well what me and my boyfriend did is... If you have an aftermarket stereo...disconnect all the amps from the speakers...which isnt that difficult...and then take the speakers and run them to the back of your stereo...and it works out just fine...cuz u dont know if the connection from the amp to the speaker is messed up or just the speaker so thats a good way to find out...and its quick and easy and a lil cheaper...

Go to ebay, Bose speakers with the amp are always for sale and are usually under 50.00

Thanks all for the great feedback on my question.

As it turned out, I went to a stereo shop and they fixed the problem. The relay switch, which I believe nelrock was referring to in his post, was bad and needed replaced. They threw an after-arket replacement part in.

Total out of pocket expenses ran me $30 or so, and I have had the use of my sub since (it sounds great for a factory system).

Thanks again,

Slade

you should be fine with that.