Grounding Kit

The Project
materials:
4 guage wire at least 10ft copper wire
3-4 4 guage terminals
1 4 port battery connecter (24k gold plated brass one $7.50usd)
1 metric 5/16 nut (for altenator connection
plastic cable ties

tools:
Bolt cutters for cutting the 4 guage. or big wire cutters
big crimper if have access to.
some allen wrenches
some sockets

O.k here we go.


http://www.81x.com/Authors/hi267/car%20012.jpg
This shows the entire wire setup the yellow terminals are the destination. (if you look under the distributer you can see a slight yellow thing that is where it connects.
http://www.81x.com/Authors/hi267/car%20013.jpg
Here is the third additional wire connected straight to the frame of the altenator. It is important to have the wire not touching the radiator. I did it with cable ties.

http://www.81x.com/Authors/hi267/car%20020.jpg
^^^another view^^^^(Keep in mind the two wires on the positive terminal side go to my two amplifiers in the trunk of my car)
So this is what I come up with as improvements:
Harder hitting subwoofers.
brighter lights
idle doesn't dip as noticeable as before when the sub hits hard.
little to no horse power gain. (although It has been a while for a tune up)
better start up of car (my car had a little hesitation while turning over the engine, now it's gone, It was pretty minor)
for under $30.00usd I guess it is a good buy.

These kits you can buy for $100.00. I did it for under $35.00. I have found that the grounding wire to the altenator itself to the battery was the most effective one. I don't believe it is my wishfull thinking. So I do recomend that wire.The altenator Makes electricity, so... The positive exits the altenator through the wires off your altenator. And the negetive goes to the body of the altenator. So why not get the power from your atenator directly to the otherside of the car, inevitably to the battery. Which will keep your battery happy and balence out the elictricity. When I hooked that up thats when I found a good difference in my car. (slight bit more power(very slight) and brighter lights in general). So thats why I endorse the third one.

Where is the third wire? I only see two yellow ones

blane! a fellow TN buddy yea i am yet to try out your grounding kit just tore my engine apart again...so one wire goes right to the frotn of the car grounding it the other goes to the alternator where is the third one?

Would the grounding kit help out w/ my starting, it only seems to want to start when it wants too, its a little screwwy.. when it actually turns over it does start right away, but i think my wiring is messed up or something. At one time there was an alarm installed but it was cut because the owner had small children and they set it off all the time... when i shut my doors the locks lock and then unluck and my tail lights often flash just out of the blue.. ill be washing it or somthing and the tail lights just flash, w/o the key or anyone inside, somthin has got to be wrong... if anyone has any ideas on what it would be, i would appreciate it, thank you

yea someone on the TN forum said it helped their car start very quick. it does sound like somethin screwy is up with your wiring though

i should be gettin a new ignition switch today, to see if that has anything to do w/ it..

Ok, nevermind, just got back from the Toyota dealership and they said its too complicated to put a new one in yourself, and they want me to come put it on the machine to test what is wrong with it, wich is 35... if its the ignition switch then they will put a new one in for 105.00 to put it in and 85.00 for the actuall switch... sigh

Your sure its the ingnition switch? If you have access to a multimeter or volt meter heres an easy check for your ignition system.

Place your postitive and negative contacts on their respective contacts on the car battery.
Check 1.. Should read about 12 VDc from the battery.

Have a friend start the car.
Check 2.. Voltage should not drop below 8VDc If it does, bad starter.

While the car is running.
Check 3.. Voltage should read about 14 VDc unless you have a stronger alternator. If it is less than 14 VDc then you have a alternator thats going bad.

I am certain that it is not the starter, becasue we just put a new one in last week to see if that was the problem, and i really think it has nothing to do w/ the altenator because as long as it starts to crank it will, other wise it wont do a damn thing

It very well could be the switch. I was just giving you the test steps just so you could check some stuff out on your own, and because what you described sounded just like a problem a friend of mine had. The check we did (listed above) basically did the exact same thing that the ignition system test set that places like Autozone use.

All right, I will go ahead and do the whole check, thanks for the advice.

Ok, i went and did the check and all reads good, so what do you think it is? Ignition Switch?

As much as i hate to say it yea.. it looks to be the ignition switch. I just wanted to make sure that they were actually going to replace the part needed not just charge you for something you don't need. I know it is highly unlikely that a dealership would do that, but I thought the same thing when they charged me for a whole new fuel system when it was just the ignition wires causeing the problem.... anyway.. take it easy

Thanks for your help!... I'm really glad i found automotiveforums.com..