Which Mustang?

Ok, Thinking of building a Fox body Mustang for some 1/4 mile street ET bracket racing.
Which of all the 5.0's would you folks consider the easyist to build? Remember we are only looking at 12.50 or so for the ET but we are also in a place where the summer air density goes to 5500'+ here in the desert of Arizona.
We also have to use a DOT tire and run mufflers....
Thanx

91-92 notch.

i have to ask you, do you go drag racing often?

85GT.... why? roller cam block and carbed. Carbed is easiest just cause it is the cheapest.

Yes, carbs the way to go. If you are die hard and u buy a 92, you would ditch that fuel injector for a carb!

i have to ask you, do you go drag racing often?
I only live about 30 miles from raceway and have a truck and tanden trailer to move car on. Was not even thinking of ever driving on roads etc. I would be racing at least twice a month 7-8 months per year.
Yep, I had been thinking of the roller cam block with a carb myself. The earlier cars ('79-'85) is what I had in mind. I was thinking of using a C-4 trans.

C-4 is a great drag auto. 79-84 and before 302's are not roller cam blocks.

C-4 is a great drag auto. 79-84 and before 302's are not roller cam blocks.
Yep, I'd need to find '85 or later block. I have access to several 302 intakes for carbs now and several carbs also.
something I was wondering is what work does the chassis take to get it to hook good and what size tire is the largest that will fit the rear without doing metalwork?

I personally have always liked Southside Machine Lift Bars. A good set of subframe connectors (welded in) would also be wise. Mine are 2" square tubing but there many choices. Not sure on what size street legal tire, like a drag radial for instance, will fit without mods. 26" x 10.5" slicks will usually fit unless the car is lowered. Then you would have to run something around 8"-9" wide. Again, I'm not sure what the equivalent street tire is. Mickey Thompson E.T. Streets come in a 26" x 10.5". With a hard hooking tire, the torque boxes will eventually start cracking. Some preventative seam welding may help slow the process but don't surprised if they still go bad. Mine finally had to be completely replaced. I got a kit from Southside Machine that is bullet proof but is/can be difficult to install. I'm a diehard stick guy myself but most guys opt for the auto trans. If you're going to use the 8.8 rear, I'd get some c-clip eliminator bearings for safety. I know a guy that has ran in the 10 teens with the stock axles and no c-clip bearings, but I think he's racing on borrowed time.

Yep, if you are in the 10's on stock FOMOCO axles and 'C' clips you are on borrowed time and really foolish. NHRA asks for aftermarket axles on anything 10.99 or quicker. Guy's never think that there is a reason for rules. Ever seen a stock axle come un-clipped? I have, not a pretty site. Sure wouldn't want to be in the other lane when that happened.........

First of all whats the budget here? If it where me and I had the money i'd build a 393 and lay some Victor Jr's to it. Run a 850 Speed Demon, solid roller, and electric fan/water pump/ect. C-4 is a great choice, thats what im building for my car. Stage 3. Drop a 9" in it with some 4.10's and a set of ladder bars. You should hit very low 11's - high 10's.

Remember, we only want to run street E.T.--no quicker than 12.00. Car needs to have mufflers and DOT tires to be legal.
With 12.00 or slower in mind I really don't need a huge budget (I don't think) to get there...
Thats why the idea of the carb with the roller block.