Final turbo help

Well here I go, a turbo is on its way (T3 (from a nissan 300zx)) and I am trying to figure out what I will need to make sure my car doesn't spontainously explode. :eek: I am going to get an a/f meter along with an fmu of some sort. I hear that everyone with a turbo runs their cars much richer than stoich, about 12-13:1 are you supposed to run your car richer on boost, or do people just do it to be safe (I.E. If I can tune closer to 14.7 ---- should I?).
I also know that the 12:1 FMU is a very popular choice, but I'm not sure of what I need to do with my injectors, does the rising rate regulator do the job of "bigger" injectors buy adding pressure w/boost? Do I still need bigger injectors? And should I need a bigger fuel pump?
I'm going to be running <10psi with a small intercooler.

Edit: Also, If I run premium gas is that enough to prevent detonation, or do I still need to retard the timing.
Thanks,

Which engine are you boosting? If its a stock engine you should keep it closer to 7 psi or possibly 8 at the most, but that tends to be the safe limit. Personally I run 6 psi on my stock engine just to be safe. I have seen people run 10 psi on a ls motor but I think thats the only stock one that can take that kind of boost. Dont mess with the timing, itll just kill all your power for driving around town. The 12:1 fmu when used with stock injectors and an inline fuel pump will deliver enough fuel for atleast 7 psi of boost and maybe more but it tends to be really rich. When running a turbo the ideal fuel mixture is actually closer to a 12.5:1 instead the the stoicheometric 14.5:1 but they usually end up being even more rich than that just to be safe since the fmu is the cheap way of adding more fuel and its not as precise as bigger injectors and a new computer. You should definately add a good inline high pressure fuel pump since the stock one wont be able to keep up with the higher pressure. If you do get any detonation immediately get the car out of boost and figure out what was causing it to detonate, not saying that you will but just in case. Also you need to run a colder spark plug than stock, something like the NGK BKR7E.

Im boosting a b20b, and I planned on keeping it low, like what you were saying, wherever the stock wastegate will go, around 5 or 6 psi probably. And I guess the timing is a no no, so I'll leave that alone. I was reading around (everywhere) and everything sais that 12.5 was where the best power was made, so I'll have to agree with you there. And I guess ill be planning on getting a new fuel pump; What are the options, is an 'in tank' pump better, do they make higher flow in tank pumps or is an inline one the only way to do it. And with the puel pressure being so high, will I need to run new lines? If I get a 12:1 regulator, how hard and or expensive is it to change out the plates for say a 10:1?
Im not one what has tested all of this so I don't really know what works and what doesn't, but what I'm doing is just cruching numbers and trying to get everything to work out.

Ill give you a low down of what I mean by cruching numbers...
I get a value of about 310cfm of engine consumption if boosting 10psi w/intercooler (just an easy number to calculate) compared to a 190cfm if N/A. This gives me a ratio of 1.63 so thus I would need (240cc*1.63 = 390cc) injectors running at the same duty cycle to produce adequate fuel. By running that through the injector size/pressure formula it tells me that I need a fuel pressure of 142psi at the injectors to get an eqivilant 390cc injector from a 240cc @10psi. A 12:1 FMU (12psi per psi-boost); results in a 170psi fuel system (starting from ~50psi; boosting 10psi). Which is MUCH more than required by the previous example. If I was liberal with the fuel pressure (which I'll probably end up doing), and get a 10:1 - it would give me 150psi, that would give me room for error. These are just my thoughts, If you all know I'm wrong somehow I'd appreciate your advice.

I'm sure your probably all sick of my wierd and involved questions but thanks for the help. I try to make everything an exact science, and this is probably one of those areas where its not neccesarily possible.
These are the links to my info below.

Injector links (http://www.mcbrooms.com/volvo/injcalcs/injcalcs.htm)
Cfm calculations (http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/sizing.htm)

for the fuel pump you can get either the intank or an inline, I have an inline with the factor intank and havent had any problems with it. Most people like to run the inline with the factory intank like my setup that way if one of the pumps gives out you can still make it home. The factory fuel lines will be fine for the ammount of fuel flow. For the FMU it is very easy to change the plates, there are 6 allen screws in the top that you take out then there is a diaphragm you remove and the plate is right under that. Vortech makes a calibration kit that includes all of the different ratio plates in one package (4:1, 6:1, 8:1, 10:1, 12:1, I think it inclueds all of these) so you can change the pressure. That runs for about $70. But most fuel pumps wont reach that high of a fuel pressure and you will actually end up hitting the static pressure limit of the injectors where they max out. Once you get to that point you will need larger injectors and a new fuel computer to tune them but that isnt necessary for low boost levels. I think most pumps max out about 125 to 130 psi.

So If I were to get bigger injectors, lower the nominal pressure rating (from 55 to say 40 or something (I'd have to figure it out)) and then run a less sloped FMU, then that would work?
Actually if you don't mind, How do you have your car hooked up (or anyone for that matter), is it with a new/mod. ECU or do you use a mechanical FMU? If you use a mech. FMU could you tell me how yours is setup?

Thanks,

im actually running too rich so I need a lower ratio in my fmu, but I currently have a high pressure inline fuel pump with a 12:1 fmu and stock injectors. I also forgot, for the turbo setup if you use the stock ecu you have to fool the map sensor and you can do that with check valves but I would suggest you get a turbo blox bypass valve. Its a little more expensive but itll save you alot of headaches with check engine lights.

Im reading through alot of stuff and made a little program to calculate all my awnsers really fast, but a question would be, are the honda injectors rated 240cc at 43.5psi or 55 psi? (or something else entirely) I just need to know so I can change my formulas now before I buy anything. Civic, I planned on using a 3v zener diode to fix the map sensor problem.

Also if anyone runs 310-cc injectors (in a 1.8-2.0L) I would appreciate it if you could just quote/or estimate what your fuel pressure is at w/o boost, like at idle or while cruising.

Also, does anyone have a problem going from summer to winter, what do you do to your car to make up for the differences? I don't know about where you all are but in Kansas we have 100 degree summers and 0 degree winters.

Thanks for your help 95civic,

No problem

When it comes to injectors I cannot speak from experience but this might answer some of your fuel system questions that I could not

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/features/0206ht_fuelsystem/

Good, thanks for that site, it confirms my other fuel rate formula (an important one) that (Fn = Fo * Sqrt(Pn/Po)) So that being true I think I've got all the numbers worked out. Does anyone know a 'safe' low end fuel pressure I should not go below? I hear different things from all the websites, I know from the previous link that 100+ psi is not good, and probably anything above 80 is too much. But if I were to take mitsubishi type injectors (~310cc I figure I'll need to lower the pressure to about 24psi at (0psi + 1 atm)) so that means under a small vaccum it will go down even lower, is that too low of a number?

Thanks,

I just thought of this little off note, but I was thinking about everything that the extra power is gonna end up doing, and the transmission came to my mind. Is an auto tranny rebuild from level 10 worth it, Does anyone know if the level 10 "PTS" Auto tranny upgrade actually saves your transmission from breaking or doing whatever bad things it does before it stops working? Are there any other related upgrades you can think of besides this "all encompassing" PTS bulletproof upgrade kit that level 10 sells for about 380$?

Thanks in advance,

TCI has an auto rebuild kit with new clutches that can handle more power, high horsepower axles, and torque converter.

http://www.tciauto.com/sport_compact.htm