Distributor Cap Replacement
northtyger
04-02-2004, 10:28 AM
This may be a no-brainer for most of you out there, so bear with me. While attempting to replace plugs, wires, Distributor Cap, rotor. I ran into a couple of snags.
First - I cannot get the old rotor to come off. It will not budge. Any suggestions?
Second - After failing to get the rotor off, I decided to go ahead and replace the dist. cap. and I cannot get the two screws that hold it in place to line up & go in. I can get one of them to line up and tighten, but not the other one! After taking it off several times, I can get either one of the two to start, but not both!
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
First - I cannot get the old rotor to come off. It will not budge. Any suggestions?
Second - After failing to get the rotor off, I decided to go ahead and replace the dist. cap. and I cannot get the two screws that hold it in place to line up & go in. I can get one of them to line up and tighten, but not the other one! After taking it off several times, I can get either one of the two to start, but not both!
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Mike K.
04-02-2004, 03:05 PM
Not to be a smart ass, but are you positive these are correct parts? Parts houses have been known to sell wrong parts. Did you hold both caps next to each other, to verify screw holes line up? There's not much of a step or shoulder cap rests on. Maybe a small Phillips screwdriver to hold one side lined up, then drive other screw in?
Re: rotor - it could be tight on shaft, try wiggling loose. Only 2 screws hold it on, no other fastening means.
Cars can be frustrating, but don't give up! Post here to give us update.
Re: rotor - it could be tight on shaft, try wiggling loose. Only 2 screws hold it on, no other fastening means.
Cars can be frustrating, but don't give up! Post here to give us update.
IFallsRon
04-05-2004, 02:41 PM
I know your pain. I had a streak where my distributor cap and rotor were fouling out. Seems there was a pinhole leak in the upper radiator hose where it goes into the water neck. The moisture would get back to the distributor and condense on the inside of the cap. The shaft rusted a bit and held the rotor pretty tight. I think i ended up using a pry bar and block to wedge off the rotor. The cap is hard to get back on, too. I have a miniture socket set specifically for this chore. Try putting a little dielectric grease on the shaft when you replace the rotor. It'll help the next time.
northtyger
04-12-2004, 10:00 AM
Thanks For The Feedback Guys. I Finally Got The Cap Back On, But Was Unable To Get The Rotor Off. Took It To A Mechanic, & They Had To Break It To Get It Off!
But I Think I Still Have A Problem. I Now Have Replaced The Plugs, Wires, Dist. Cap, & Rotor. And It Runs Fine In The Morning Driving To Work, But When It Warms Up Good & When I Drive Up A Hill, It Is Still Skipping. Any Ideas?
But I Think I Still Have A Problem. I Now Have Replaced The Plugs, Wires, Dist. Cap, & Rotor. And It Runs Fine In The Morning Driving To Work, But When It Warms Up Good & When I Drive Up A Hill, It Is Still Skipping. Any Ideas?
Mike K.
04-13-2004, 10:26 AM
I had same problem, seems the throttle body was real messy with soot. Remove the plastic plumbing atop TB (just remove wing nut, then pull up and forward to clear clip on front). Open butterfly by hand, and stuff a small rag down throat. Prop butterfly open with screwdriver or other tool. Using old toothbrush, scrub away grime (important - scrub underside of butterfly, that's the most grimy area) with Gumout or equivelant. Rag catches soot/slime. Remove rag, button back up. Did the trick for me, hope it helps. If not, look at EGR and clean that too.
northtyger
04-20-2004, 11:15 AM
Took it in to the dealer & they could not find anything wrong. I had him replace the fuel filter & when I got it home I dumped a bottle of STP Fuel Treatment in the tank. So far it runs great. Took it for a steep climb up a nearby mountain & it ran good. Think maybe I just had some bad gas???
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