Engine Smoke 305 Engine
EvilTex
03-31-2004, 02:33 AM
-84 Chevy Silverado-
-305 CID - 4 bbl Quadrajet Carb-
Im a poor air conditioning guy trying to make my 84 chevy silverado get me thru 1 more summer (just got divorced and she took the new truck, lol). Apparently the valve guides have oil leaking past them and my truck is now known as the neighborhood "mosquito killer". It smokes a nice shade of blue so i know its an oil problem and considering I have 100,000 miles on it (at least), I know its ready for some serious attention. The smoking problem is not that bad but Im throwing out some nice fumes at the people behind me at the red lights.
So, I have looked at a lot of "No Smoke" additives on the market and personally it looks like some 90 weight rear end gear oil (that was the CD-2 Brand). So if I can make it run decently for a couple of months Ill have the money and time to drop a rebuilt 305 in it. So, my question is...
Is there a product that will cut down on my oil smoke coming out the tailpipes and if so, which one seems to work the best? Or should I just shoot a quart of 90 weight gear oil in it (j/k) :dunno:
Besides the smoking problem the truck runs fantastic.
Thx again folks,
Tex
-305 CID - 4 bbl Quadrajet Carb-
Im a poor air conditioning guy trying to make my 84 chevy silverado get me thru 1 more summer (just got divorced and she took the new truck, lol). Apparently the valve guides have oil leaking past them and my truck is now known as the neighborhood "mosquito killer". It smokes a nice shade of blue so i know its an oil problem and considering I have 100,000 miles on it (at least), I know its ready for some serious attention. The smoking problem is not that bad but Im throwing out some nice fumes at the people behind me at the red lights.
So, I have looked at a lot of "No Smoke" additives on the market and personally it looks like some 90 weight rear end gear oil (that was the CD-2 Brand). So if I can make it run decently for a couple of months Ill have the money and time to drop a rebuilt 305 in it. So, my question is...
Is there a product that will cut down on my oil smoke coming out the tailpipes and if so, which one seems to work the best? Or should I just shoot a quart of 90 weight gear oil in it (j/k) :dunno:
Besides the smoking problem the truck runs fantastic.
Thx again folks,
Tex
desertmike1
03-31-2004, 07:22 AM
Assuming your Rings are OK, then really all you need to do is replace the guide seals (in place) you don't have to pull heads to perform this.
All you need is an air compressor, and valve spring compressor, and a few hand tools.
100,000 miles is not that many on your V8.
O ya and some liquid wrench (Beer)
Did you do both a dynamic & static compression check?
-Mike
All you need is an air compressor, and valve spring compressor, and a few hand tools.
100,000 miles is not that many on your V8.
O ya and some liquid wrench (Beer)
Did you do both a dynamic & static compression check?
-Mike
EvilTex
04-01-2004, 11:22 AM
Thx for the reply Mike...
I do have an air compressor, I dont have a spring compressor but tomorrows payday. :)
I have NOT done any compression checks but a friend at work said he would come over saturday and test it for me as long as I have the "liquid Wrench". I bought the truck from an older lady, and it had been sitting in her garage for 9 years. I don't know if sitting that long would affect anything else besides all the gaskets which I have already replaced (most of those) and all of the seals, rear-end etc... Is there anything else I should check while my buddy is here ?? Hes an airline engine mechanic so he owns most every tool available to man.
Thx again Mike
EvilTex aka Russ
I do have an air compressor, I dont have a spring compressor but tomorrows payday. :)
I have NOT done any compression checks but a friend at work said he would come over saturday and test it for me as long as I have the "liquid Wrench". I bought the truck from an older lady, and it had been sitting in her garage for 9 years. I don't know if sitting that long would affect anything else besides all the gaskets which I have already replaced (most of those) and all of the seals, rear-end etc... Is there anything else I should check while my buddy is here ?? Hes an airline engine mechanic so he owns most every tool available to man.
Thx again Mike
EvilTex aka Russ
Gooseneck
04-01-2004, 05:37 PM
100,000 miles is not alot of miles IF the engine has had good routine maintenance. If the engine smokes constantly while driving and not just on start-up than I would say it's time for a rebuild or replacement. But since you are trying to go a little longer you might try a engine "flush/cleaner". Since the truck set for that long it's a chance that the piston rings are stuck in the piston ring groves-just a chance, if nothing else it will give you and your friend something to do while you enjoy the liquid wrench.
tidalcock
04-01-2004, 08:25 PM
That's a hoot. April fools!
desertmike1
04-01-2004, 11:01 PM
Russ,
Your on the right track!
If the truck sat for nine years accouple differant things can happen, first of all the rubber gaskets and seals get hard and loose the ability to seal properly, such as the Oring style valve seals, front and rear main seals, valve cover gaskets etc.
Secondly, all of the cast iron, and steel parts begin to rust such as cylinder walls, valves, crankshafts, camshafts etc.
It's always a good idea to borascope the inside of an engine thats been sitting for long periods before start-up, and prelube the journals and cylinders.
One area of huge concern is the cylinder walls, if they rusted and you start the engine, bad things can happen like scoring, and possible breakage of piston rings. (ouch)
When your buddy does his compression test you should be able to identify problems in these areas if they really exist?
I would difinitly do all the compression testing work first. The static test will tell you if you have broken rings or badly pitted valves.
The cranking (dynamic) test will tell you if the rings have the ability to pump the cylinders up to about 100-150 psi.
Once you clear the compression test use a valve spring compressor from auto zone's tool loan program, this should save you about fifty bucks that can be used for Large Quintities of "Liquid Wrench"
If you get as far as the valve seal replacement, be carefull not to allow a valve to drop into the cylinder.
Let us all know how things pan out?
-Mike
Your on the right track!
If the truck sat for nine years accouple differant things can happen, first of all the rubber gaskets and seals get hard and loose the ability to seal properly, such as the Oring style valve seals, front and rear main seals, valve cover gaskets etc.
Secondly, all of the cast iron, and steel parts begin to rust such as cylinder walls, valves, crankshafts, camshafts etc.
It's always a good idea to borascope the inside of an engine thats been sitting for long periods before start-up, and prelube the journals and cylinders.
One area of huge concern is the cylinder walls, if they rusted and you start the engine, bad things can happen like scoring, and possible breakage of piston rings. (ouch)
When your buddy does his compression test you should be able to identify problems in these areas if they really exist?
I would difinitly do all the compression testing work first. The static test will tell you if you have broken rings or badly pitted valves.
The cranking (dynamic) test will tell you if the rings have the ability to pump the cylinders up to about 100-150 psi.
Once you clear the compression test use a valve spring compressor from auto zone's tool loan program, this should save you about fifty bucks that can be used for Large Quintities of "Liquid Wrench"
If you get as far as the valve seal replacement, be carefull not to allow a valve to drop into the cylinder.
Let us all know how things pan out?
-Mike
EvilTex
04-02-2004, 02:45 PM
"i recommend putting the wire in your mouth just to be on the safe side.
so remember coil wire mouth. compression test pinky."
ROFLMAO...I guess you would know from experience ???
Mr Mike,
The truck sat after the ladies husband passed away. I called her son today and asked him IF the truck was ever run in the 9 year period. He said that he started it at least once a month and he had to move it quite often to get things out of the garage. He said it probably never sat a whole month without running. (That comment made me happy)
I wasn't too picky when I bought the truck. I fixed the ladies air conditioner and gave her a good deal (cause shes old and feeble) so she gave me the truck for 500 bucks. Theres not a speck of rust on it and every thing works, the power windows, clock etc... It was a deal for me no matter what. Beat up POS trucks sell for 2500 here in dallas.
After the Busch race saturday (yea, its here this weekend :), we are going to check it out and hopefully, can make the engine last me a couple of months till I get my divorce lawyer paid off. Then I will buy a van to work out of and start restoring the truck fully. Ive never restored a vehicle before but his puppy is 20 years old and doesn't look a day over 5 years old. I can't even find a dent in it. I had some cheap dayton white letter tires put on it this morning (had to go with the 225's for that extra wide look) Yea, Im still stuck in the 70's.
As for the seals... I figured they would leak. Slowly but surely, the rearend seal started first, then the valve covers. I replaced them. The front seal is leaking but it looks like its has been leaking for a while do to the thick buildup.
Thx for the info on the tool rental from autozone. I didnt know they did rentals but I have an autozone right around the corner. They are located right next to the "Liquid Wrench" supply house.
I'll let ya know what happens this weekend.
Thx again for setting me on the right track !
Russ
so remember coil wire mouth. compression test pinky."
ROFLMAO...I guess you would know from experience ???
Mr Mike,
The truck sat after the ladies husband passed away. I called her son today and asked him IF the truck was ever run in the 9 year period. He said that he started it at least once a month and he had to move it quite often to get things out of the garage. He said it probably never sat a whole month without running. (That comment made me happy)
I wasn't too picky when I bought the truck. I fixed the ladies air conditioner and gave her a good deal (cause shes old and feeble) so she gave me the truck for 500 bucks. Theres not a speck of rust on it and every thing works, the power windows, clock etc... It was a deal for me no matter what. Beat up POS trucks sell for 2500 here in dallas.
After the Busch race saturday (yea, its here this weekend :), we are going to check it out and hopefully, can make the engine last me a couple of months till I get my divorce lawyer paid off. Then I will buy a van to work out of and start restoring the truck fully. Ive never restored a vehicle before but his puppy is 20 years old and doesn't look a day over 5 years old. I can't even find a dent in it. I had some cheap dayton white letter tires put on it this morning (had to go with the 225's for that extra wide look) Yea, Im still stuck in the 70's.
As for the seals... I figured they would leak. Slowly but surely, the rearend seal started first, then the valve covers. I replaced them. The front seal is leaking but it looks like its has been leaking for a while do to the thick buildup.
Thx for the info on the tool rental from autozone. I didnt know they did rentals but I have an autozone right around the corner. They are located right next to the "Liquid Wrench" supply house.
I'll let ya know what happens this weekend.
Thx again for setting me on the right track !
Russ
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
