fan help im tired of this

oh my fan will not come on im gettin tired of messing w/ it and im about to install a switch some where on my console so i can manually switch it on and off because my car overheats very quick if any of u have done this and could tell me how to connect this i would appreciate it i have the 91 rs auto w/ a tbi... also would u recomend a different type of fan or thermostat to help this problem (one of a resonable price) rather than the stock factory one (plastic) in it now

well the fan isnt supose to kick in till 220 i believe i had this problem b4 but it was a lose connection

look on the passenger side of the engine, there's a temp sensor in the head. unplug this sensor, turn the key to the on position, or start, and then touch this wire to ground. if the fan comes on, then it could be a bad temp sensor. if the fan doesn't come on then check the fuse, or it could be the relay, or the fan itself. summit sells a temp sensor that turns the fan on at a lower temp, i think it's about $20. the temp sensor in the front of the manifold does not controll the fan, just incase your confused

I wired mine to the ignition coil, so I have no chance of it dicking out on me.

I wired mine to the ignition coil, so I have no chance of it dicking out on me.


How has that treated you?? These electric fans werent designed to run constantly, I figured they'd burn out often if they're always running..

havn't had a problem yet, and I'm 60,000 miles into it.

I just put both my fans on switches.. Kind of a pain in the ass sometimes..

Yeah, I did that once, but it sucks when you forget to flip the switch on, or off for that matter, dead battery

id go for the switch, if for nothing else other than you get to flip a switch. people like to flip switches, i think im going to develope a therapy where all you do is flip switches...

flipping switches can definatly be theraputic.. especially when driving!

i am having the same trouble. i just got back from advance auto and i got a thermostat switch. ME and my dad earlier tested the motor and it works fine and we also got a new relay switch today. My camaro is an 88, does anyone know where the thermo switch goes? Me and my dad cant find it. i hope the problem was the switch so i dont have to get anything else.

yeah i figured out my fan motor is burnt out and thats why it keeps melting the fuselink wire connected to my relay my part will be here tomorrow at 9 am and i also bought another thermostat this one is 160 degree instead of the 190 something i think they run factory but if neither of these help it will be that theraputic switch install

excellent

look under the hood for the relays they should be in a fuse box under a cover. swap you'r ac relay with you'r fan relay then see if your ac works. if it does then your relay is good. check all your fuses. then check the fan it's self. I would not hook up a togle switch. too easy to forget to turn on.check in to the temp sencor from summit or some auto parts store. make sure the kit has a relay. the fans will burn a switsh out over time with out a relay instaled. hopefully the new fan moter will work though.

anybody got any advice for me? i havent installed the new thermo switch yet but if that isnt it what else could it be? Will a Chilton manual help? I hope i have my fan working by tomorrow so i can finally drive it. if you know whats wrong can you help me figure it out?


PS: Are there two relay switches? i replaced one and found another later on. COuld that be it too? :banghead:

one relay is for the cooling fan, and one is for the a/c fan (assuming you have a v-8). a chilton will only take you so far. i dont even think it has a troubleshooting section like the haynes (dont remember havent looked at mine i awhile). if you replace the motor, the relay, the thermo, and checked all your temp sensors, then what does that leave? the PCM i think, not sure if ive missed any component of the cooling, and i dont really feel like reading what everyone else has said...

oh i know, are you sure you have coolant flow? i guess it could be the water pump...

yeah i figured out my fan motor is burnt out and thats why it keeps melting the fuselink wire connected to my relay my part will be here tomorrow at 9 am and i also bought another thermostat this one is 160 degree instead of the 190 something i think they run factory but if neither of these help it will be that theraputic switch install


Hey, Just a little tip, its not good for your car to run a 160 thermostat over a 190..
If the thermostat doesnt let your engine reach the ECM's preset operating tempature, your engine will always be running in open loop operation, that means it will be taking information from preset values in the ECM, rather than taking air/fuel mixture info from the oxygen sensor.. This can hurt the performance, fuel economy and emissions..
There have been things out to eliminate this.. i.e. The Thermomaster performance chip, most power programmers let you adjust engine operating temps..

interesting...i think i might have found my problem in your comment. you sure about that operating temp stuff?

hay chevyraceingcamaro
you have a Z28 or 6 cylinder? the 94 Z28 should have two fans. their should be three cooling fan relays in the fuse box under the hood drivers side. the relays are numbered it is on the inside of the cover. use a jumper wire with a fuse to do this test. pull out relay # 1 where the relay plugs in the little slots will be numbered D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 look close hard to see. take your jumper wire and hook up D1 to D4 both fans should come on low. leave this jumper in now use another jumper wire and on relay 3 which is labeled J1 J2 J3 J4 J5 hook your jumper from J1 to J4 with both jumpers in place your drivers side fan should come on high. pull both jumper wires out and pull out relay 2 the little slots should be numbered F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 jump F1 to F4 your right fan should come on high. the fans on my 94Z would only come on low if I had the ac on but would not come on high at all. your computer chip is soldered in so you will have to reprogram it. I just did mine Saturday and every thing works fine now. you can buy a hypertech programmer for about 350 plus tax. it will only program one car. or you can check out some of the sights formulaLT1 gave me at www.tunercat.com or www.pcmforless.com also check out http://shbox.com/1/4thgentech2.htm1#cooling phantomz28 gave me that one it has a lot of info on 94-95 camaro. damone is right i would not change my thermostat with out reprogramming my computer

yeah, unfortunatly.. With a 160 degree thermostat, your oxygen sensor is useless and your car is just mixing air and fuel to some preset ratio from factory..

If you really want a cooler running engine, I suggest the Hypertech ThermoMaster power chip... Great upgrade..

http://www.truckstuffusa.com/therpowchipb.html

fuck it get a csi water pump

The waterpump makes a big difference.. But if the thermostat doesnt open up till 190 degree's to let coolant through the engine to cool it down.. A new waterpump is going to have a hard time keeping the engine cooler than the thermostat will allow.. or am i wrong? something to ponder...

you could take the thermostat out....

we dont have one in that blue van, it runs real cool, it jus sucks during the winter time when you wanna have heat

But that brings us back to the first problem we had about the engine always running in open loop!
mind you.. the engine would stay very cool?!

the stat' in my 86 camaro stuck open one time a couple winters ago.. I lived about 10 miles from the city and every morning on the way to school, i'de freeze my cherries off.. no thermostat, higway driving, and -30C, do not make for a fun trip

now about the water pump working hard to keep the motor cool i dunno about that one, if the thermostat fails and stays closed then no coolant will flow through the block and it will overheat, then the water pump... fuck i dunno im tired

yeah.. its gotten to the point where im just babbling to keep myself awake..
ahh ta hell with it.. im goin ta bed

oo i 4got, were talkin about a car with all those sensors and shit on it, haha

ha i hear ya i have to keep readin what im writing dahhh i cannot go to fuckin sleep!!

du you think it would work to run nitrogen instead of coolent? nitrogen is always cold and u wouldn't not have to use antifreeze coolent or a radiator but maybe the waterpump. also windsheild wiper fluid is cheaper than antifreeze and it doesn't freeze. i recommend that it's only a dollar a gallon

well you'd have to use liquid nitrogen and that would freeze the block and it would probably crack under the strain of regular use, and depending on where you are, it's hard to find wiper fluid that doesn't freeze. But the big thing is over heating, what qualities does wiper fluid have??

Oh, and with the "open" thermo thing, a thermo stuck open is just as much a problem as one that is stuck closed. If it is stuck open then the coolant won't be in the radiator long enough to cool it down and you will still over heat. I don't understand how the "blue van" stays cool. Very wierd.

Let's see, liquid Nitrogen would vaprize pretty quickly... see, it is only liquid at extremely low temperatures... coolant is liquid at high temperatures, that's what makes it coolant.

With all my experience with thermo's stuck open... The temp gauge never moved unless it idled for an hour.. But that was in the winter.. in the summer, your right, itd probably overheat

yea it will only over heat if you sit with the car runnin for a long period of time, like city driving with lots of traffic, i dont have a problem with over heating in the summer either....