pulling engine, need tips
97redbird
03-30-2004, 07:51 PM
hello all. new here, nice looking site.
i have a 97 tbird with 170,000 miles and im in the process of pulling my engine out due to rusted/leaking freeze plugs. it seems just about all of them are leaking.
anyways, i found out the main wiring harnes just unplugs so thats saves a little time. however, looking at it now, the ac compresser and the power steering pump look like they will be difficult to take off with the engine in the car. do i just leave them on and disconnect the lines or is it best to take them off? also i took the 2 bolts off the starter that i could see but she aint budging, is there another bolt hidden above it?
i have all the necessary tools and i am mechanically inclined.i need some tips from someone who has pulled their 4.6l out to make this a little less painless for me.
i have a 97 tbird with 170,000 miles and im in the process of pulling my engine out due to rusted/leaking freeze plugs. it seems just about all of them are leaking.
anyways, i found out the main wiring harnes just unplugs so thats saves a little time. however, looking at it now, the ac compresser and the power steering pump look like they will be difficult to take off with the engine in the car. do i just leave them on and disconnect the lines or is it best to take them off? also i took the 2 bolts off the starter that i could see but she aint budging, is there another bolt hidden above it?
i have all the necessary tools and i am mechanically inclined.i need some tips from someone who has pulled their 4.6l out to make this a little less painless for me.
amac209
04-01-2004, 10:27 PM
whatever you do don't unhook the ac-lines. what i do in an engine job is unbolt the bracket to the power steering pump and the unbolt the ac compresser and tie them up with a bungee cord or rope so they're out of the way. some ford starters have 3 bolts. i havn't ever pulled a 4.6. i assume you've pulled engines before. i think you take out the torque convertor bolts through the starter hole like most fords. you'll also need some quick disconnect tools for the fuel line(s). once you have the motor out replace the rear main seal and the torque convertor seal, just cheap insurance because they will eventually start leaking down the road. good luck!!!! i'd help you out for a few beers if you lived in fairbanks alaska..
97Bird
04-04-2004, 07:00 PM
The starter on a 4.6L has three bolts holding it to the bellhousing. Using a 1/4" drive rachet and extention is the easiest way to remove them. There are two bolts on either side of the solenoid and one down lower.
97Bird
04-04-2004, 07:04 PM
One more thing. If you are replacing the freeze plugs on this engine don't forget about the four on the front of the block in back of the timing chain cover. I speak from experience!!!!!!
97redbird
04-08-2004, 12:28 AM
thanks for the information. ive already disconnected everything and unbolted everything. all i have to do now is pull it out. i think every bolt in this car was tightened by a bunch of guys who werent getting any, cus they were heck to break loose.
thats the kind of info i needed amac and 97bird, just about all the freeze plugs i can see are leaking, and a mechanic told me there were 2 of them on back of the motor too, but i didnt know about the 4 on the front.
how do i disconnect the fuel lines exactly? i didnt pay any attention to them because i was going to disconnect them b4 i pulled the engine, but now i see u need a special tool for this?
thats the kind of info i needed amac and 97bird, just about all the freeze plugs i can see are leaking, and a mechanic told me there were 2 of them on back of the motor too, but i didnt know about the 4 on the front.
how do i disconnect the fuel lines exactly? i didnt pay any attention to them because i was going to disconnect them b4 i pulled the engine, but now i see u need a special tool for this?
amac209
04-08-2004, 01:17 AM
the fuel lines are removed with quick disconnect tools you can get a set of the cheap plastic ones for about 10 bucks i recomend getting the whole set because the feed and return lines are different sizes. have you ever replaced the fuel filter? it's the same set up just put the tool over the line and push it against the internal garter spring and it will pop apart usually penetrating oil helps and some wiggling to get it apart. if you try pulling on it with superman strength it just gets tighter. the cheap plastic tools work alright for fuel lines but not on filters. good luck
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