2.4 L engine timing chain noise
coolsunfire
03-30-2004, 04:09 PM
I changed my water pump on my 1998 Pontiac Sunfire Gt. It has a 2.4L engine and since the work has been done it has been a nightmare. The pump runs off the timing chain. At start up I am sometimes getting a noise from the engine on the timing chain side sounds like a lifter noise ticking sound but I know these engines do not have lifters. The problem seem to be worse after running it on the highway and letting the car sit then start it up and it makes the noise. Does anyone know what could be the problem? The guides and tensioner have been changed. Thanks
crashdummybip
03-30-2004, 06:47 PM
Hey man, I had this same problem when I had my water pump changed out about 10,000 miles ago. My problem was the tensioner. When they reinstalled everything, they didn't pop it out to put pressure on the chain to keep it tight against the guides. Therefore, causing the ticking noise that you are describing. I would take it back to the place you had it done, with your receipt, of course, and let them know that your car wasn't making this noise before you took it in. Unless the people are assholes, they will do everything free of charge. But you will have some more time without your car. Hope this helps a little and good luck.
coolsunfire
03-31-2004, 05:54 PM
Thanks crashdummybip, I will tell them what you told me to try. I may change the chain and gears while they have it apart. This noise is not always there at start up,but when it does the car sounds like a diesel. The tensioner and guides are brand new.
canuckgt
04-09-2004, 10:20 AM
hey thanks, i am having the same symptoms. I had the engine swapped out in my 2000 gt to one from a 2001 z24. they changed the waterpump when it was out, and maybe the same mistake was made, thanx again.
hoppingturtle
04-29-2004, 05:20 PM
You know what's weird? I have also replaced the water pump on my 97 sunfire...the guy at the GM dealership showed me how to reset the tensioner (it has three positions) so that the old one will work...I think it worked for a while...about 10,000 miles...and now i get a knocking sound starting at about 3,000 RPMs...anyone else getting that? You figure once the tensioner is working...it shouldn't just crap out like that! Or maybe it could be something else...i guessed pistons...but if I shift up while coasting down hill (bringing it past 3K rmp) it doesn't knock...this tells me it isn't pistons...am i right about that at least?
I also know that this engine doesn't use lifters...Help me out here!
I also know that this engine doesn't use lifters...Help me out here!
crashdummybip
05-03-2004, 08:49 AM
Are you getting any kind of check engine codes?...still trying to find out some info for ya.
riverat440
08-23-2004, 08:23 PM
No lifters? Better get yourself a book!
busty
01-05-2005, 04:26 PM
Hi! I'm having the exact same problem. Replaced water pump, hellish diesel like noise coming from engine. Mechanic tellls me probably an air lock in the oil that readjusts the tensioner. Should go away on its own. If not in a week take it back to him and he'll "help me out" .Were any of you told anything like this i.e. air lock in the oil supply to the timing belt adjuster?
riverat440
01-06-2005, 07:47 AM
Sounds like a crock to me. Have you ever see the plastic line that operates a mechanical oil pressure guage? There can be air in it and it still reads OK. The engine I had been working on turned out to have a spun bearing. In GMs infinite wisdom the put double notches in the rod and the cap. These notches are supposed to accomodate the anti-spin tabs on the rod bearings. Normally there is one notch on the rod and one on the cap oppsite each other so that the bearing halves won't spin. When they are double notched there is nothing to stop the bearings from spinning once they have 100,000 miles or so. I'm not saying this is your problem but if it isn't and you can get rid of your present noise you'd better unload this vehicle before it turns itself into a piece of junk! I've since seen 3 others with the same noise, one of them was a '99. Good luck!
madsunfireowner
02-24-2005, 03:14 PM
Hi,
I have the same loud noise that everyone has mentioned about and its really loud and annoying. The worst part of it all now is the fact that my engine heats up really fast and coolant doesnt seem to be flowing through out the coolant system. Is it a problem with my water pump?? I had the problem worked on already before and the noise when away for a bit but it came right back. Can anyone help me out. How much will it cost to get this problem fixe? I want to get the car fix and get rid of it. i has cost me alot of problems and way to much money. Please email me at Shorty03241@hotmail.com
Thnx
I have the same loud noise that everyone has mentioned about and its really loud and annoying. The worst part of it all now is the fact that my engine heats up really fast and coolant doesnt seem to be flowing through out the coolant system. Is it a problem with my water pump?? I had the problem worked on already before and the noise when away for a bit but it came right back. Can anyone help me out. How much will it cost to get this problem fixe? I want to get the car fix and get rid of it. i has cost me alot of problems and way to much money. Please email me at Shorty03241@hotmail.com
Thnx
bugdoctor
10-18-2006, 07:26 PM
You know what's weird? I have also replaced the water pump on my 97 sunfire...the guy at the GM dealership showed me how to reset the tensioner (it has three positions) so that the old one will work...I think it worked for a while...about 10,000 miles...and now i get a knocking sound starting at about 3,000 RPMs...anyone else getting that? You figure once the tensioner is working...it shouldn't just crap out like that! Or maybe it could be something else...i guessed pistons...but if I shift up while coasting down hill (bringing it past 3K rmp) it doesn't knock...this tells me it isn't pistons...am i right about that at least?
I also know that this engine doesn't use lifters...Help me out here!
HT: so tell me : how do you reset the tensioner, if it is hydraulic ? --- I'm having the same problem and the book i have isn't clear ??????
I also know that this engine doesn't use lifters...Help me out here!
HT: so tell me : how do you reset the tensioner, if it is hydraulic ? --- I'm having the same problem and the book i have isn't clear ??????
padingre
10-17-2009, 06:04 PM
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to share that ever since I changed the water pump knock noise has been a part of my life. Knocks at adle not at high RPMs. Has power but it also has a rough idle.
wafrederick
10-18-2009, 09:26 AM
The tensioner is hydraulic and you are better buying a new one.Reseting the old one is a pain in the butt.You do not want the timing chain breaking or jumping time on a 1996 to 2003 2.4 quad 4.It is an interferance engine and will bend valves.If this happens,the next step is pulling the head off.Another thing on these,DO NOT TURN BACKWARDS!Turn the crankshaft as you are tighening a bolt.This aonther way to bend the valves also.The timing chain could be bad also,stretched out and get get this fixed ASAP
padingre
10-18-2009, 03:54 PM
Thanks for the previous post. This actually confirms that it is the tensioner. The intereting thing is that I have changed the chain, all sprokets and guides, and to be on the safe side I also changed the tensioner with a new one. It reads "see manual to reset" but all I could get was to press on it until it is a chamfer (like a step). Also before all of this it didn't make a noise. :smile:
Any idea how this is resetted, or better yet how did yours come when purchased? I am being extra careful to avoid as you indicated bending valves. Thanks!
UPDATE *********************************************
I have Google searched the resetting of this tensioner for over a week, even before I placed this to the post and never really understood the whole picture. It seems that to reset this type of tensioner you need press the piston inside the piston until there is a chamfer or a step. There is a measurement but I am just pressing down as much as I can. This is preloaded! But... That is part of the work, once installed you need to "pop" it out. This is where I misunderstood the concept of operation, it will not "pop" out when you add oil or when the engine delivers the oil to the housing.
How to pop it out? Easier said than done from what I read. You need to pop the piston once intalled in the engine and all is in perfect timing. Then with a screwdriver leverage it such that you press the piston even more deeper. From what I read you need to press and release fast, like slippling it off so it can "bounce out" again. I have done this with my old tensioner and hit it with a hammer until I lost fear and it poped in more and after a couple more hits... pop out!
I need to just do this on the car and see what technique I can use, afterall I can't hit it with a hammer there. Once done I'll either edit or add a post.
Any idea how this is resetted, or better yet how did yours come when purchased? I am being extra careful to avoid as you indicated bending valves. Thanks!
UPDATE *********************************************
I have Google searched the resetting of this tensioner for over a week, even before I placed this to the post and never really understood the whole picture. It seems that to reset this type of tensioner you need press the piston inside the piston until there is a chamfer or a step. There is a measurement but I am just pressing down as much as I can. This is preloaded! But... That is part of the work, once installed you need to "pop" it out. This is where I misunderstood the concept of operation, it will not "pop" out when you add oil or when the engine delivers the oil to the housing.
How to pop it out? Easier said than done from what I read. You need to pop the piston once intalled in the engine and all is in perfect timing. Then with a screwdriver leverage it such that you press the piston even more deeper. From what I read you need to press and release fast, like slippling it off so it can "bounce out" again. I have done this with my old tensioner and hit it with a hammer until I lost fear and it poped in more and after a couple more hits... pop out!
I need to just do this on the car and see what technique I can use, afterall I can't hit it with a hammer there. Once done I'll either edit or add a post.
padingre
10-21-2009, 07:59 PM
In the case in which the motor makkes a noise (knock or rattle) after the timing chain has been replaced or after replacing the water pump, it is possible that the culprit is the hydraulic tensioner for the GM 2.4 liter DOHC engine.:runaround:
Why does this occur? :banghead:
If you did a "reset" of the hydraulic tensioner and installed it, see if you can remeber it being depressed and the chain lose in that area. You might remember thinking that once the motor starts, the oil should pop it out. If this is your case, guess what... it will never happen. You need to complete the reset and this is easier said than done.
How do you correct his? :boink:
You need to get acess the tensioner again, meaning you need to remove everything you did until you can get the timinf cover off. I recommend that you do this by lowring the motor and from the wheel area. I also recommend a screwdriver since it worked for me.
With the flat part of the screwdriver press down on the plunger. If you recall, you did the reset by pressing on it until it went no further. Actually it does go in further and this is what we need to do. Leverage the screwdriver to press the plunger in and keep on until you noticed it went in more (normal) and keep on and if you feel or hear a click, release the screwdriver. If you don't hear anything try you luck and release it. Once you have pressed it far enough, it will release the spring tension and you are set. Believe me you will have a smile by then. :smile:
Did it work for me?:jump3:
It sure did and no more knock or rattle... :rofl: End of mym story!!!!
Why does this occur? :banghead:
If you did a "reset" of the hydraulic tensioner and installed it, see if you can remeber it being depressed and the chain lose in that area. You might remember thinking that once the motor starts, the oil should pop it out. If this is your case, guess what... it will never happen. You need to complete the reset and this is easier said than done.
How do you correct his? :boink:
You need to get acess the tensioner again, meaning you need to remove everything you did until you can get the timinf cover off. I recommend that you do this by lowring the motor and from the wheel area. I also recommend a screwdriver since it worked for me.
With the flat part of the screwdriver press down on the plunger. If you recall, you did the reset by pressing on it until it went no further. Actually it does go in further and this is what we need to do. Leverage the screwdriver to press the plunger in and keep on until you noticed it went in more (normal) and keep on and if you feel or hear a click, release the screwdriver. If you don't hear anything try you luck and release it. Once you have pressed it far enough, it will release the spring tension and you are set. Believe me you will have a smile by then. :smile:
Did it work for me?:jump3:
It sure did and no more knock or rattle... :rofl: End of mym story!!!!
Tsschnare
10-28-2013, 09:08 AM
I have a similar noise mainly around 3 rpm but it was never there and it just came after I down shifted 2 days ago
Tech II
10-28-2013, 03:04 PM
I think there was a TSB for 2001-2002 2.4's, where there was a problem with the chain not getting enough oil....the orifice hole that lubed the chain could get plugged...also a potential problem with the tensioner....this would cause a slapping of the chain......
You would get a timing kit....new chain, new tensioner, new cam sprockets, new crank sprocket, new orifice(larger opening)....
You would get a timing kit....new chain, new tensioner, new cam sprockets, new crank sprocket, new orifice(larger opening)....
savast2769
03-25-2015, 09:45 PM
I just started hearing this rattle, knock or tap in my engine. When its cold it runs like a dream. As soon as it starts getting up to temp or above 2000 rpms it does it and gets worse as it reaches temp. I would like to try and pin point issue before blowing money on this car. Can anyone help????
Tech II
03-26-2015, 01:04 PM
You have to isolate the noise first...top end, bottom end, or from the front cover....
Sunhawk01
02-22-2016, 12:59 PM
Pontiac Sunfire Sport 2000, 2.4L
have the same problem with the clicking noise....but also the vehicle has no acceleration power. if I push the gas peel to the floor...it won't accelerate and will only move slowly...about 10-15 mp4 max...the timing Chain was repaired 2 times before but after just replacing the alternador, this occured. I changed the 2 electronic coil packs and the control module and the car ran like a champ for 4 days....now I am back with the exact same problem before. is it the timing chain?
have the same problem with the clicking noise....but also the vehicle has no acceleration power. if I push the gas peel to the floor...it won't accelerate and will only move slowly...about 10-15 mp4 max...the timing Chain was repaired 2 times before but after just replacing the alternador, this occured. I changed the 2 electronic coil packs and the control module and the car ran like a champ for 4 days....now I am back with the exact same problem before. is it the timing chain?
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