Nitrous set up

Im gonna make my engine set up for nitrous and i was wondering what i would need to do to my engine for a pour nitrous set up, and what kind of nitrous i should use i am kinda stuck on Zex and Venom. I have a 95 honda dx. :banghead:

probably zex since that motor is kinda weak

how much power are you looking to get out of the kit? You should atleast upgrade to stainless steel valves, next if you are looking to get alot of power out of it you should start looking at a different type of piston and possibly rods. Aside from the engine if you want to get alot of power you will need to upgrade the fuel system too.

rods fo sho. you should look into that new zex kit that has the injector in the head of the intake filter.

well i won't say anything about internals since i don't know that much about your engine or how high of a shot you want to run but as far as nitrous kits the venom vcn2000 should be the best dry:

http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/html/products/v2000/v2000.htm#v2000

i want to run a 50 shot

50 shot is reasonable. See how much fuel you have goin to the engine and if you get a fuel pressure regulator, you should be able to go 75 if you get more fuel. And BTW dry kit is ballz, wet kit all the way buddy, you would be much happier with it.

50 shot is reasonable. See how much fuel you have goin to the engine and if you get a fuel pressure regulator, you should be able to go 75 if you get more fuel. And BTW dry kit is ballz, wet kit all the way buddy, you would be much happier with it.


its true a dry kit can be very dangerous if not properly tuned. However an excellent nitrous kit like the vcn-2000 properly tuned will be much better than a wet kit.

The problem with wet kits is there is a difference between the flow of nitrous and fuel, this will cause different a/f ratios among the cylinders with the first running the leanest and last richest, in many case it can cause backfire.

there is a guy in the local autox chapter with a 5.0 that had a backfire on his wet kit and now he also swears only by a dry


here is a more complete explanation:

The second type of nitrous kit is the "wet" style of kit. These kits include carburetor plate systems and add nitrous and fuel at the same time and place (normally 3-4" ahead of the throttle body for fuel injected applications or just under the carb as with plate systems). This type of system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications. The reason for this is the fact that fuel flows differently than air or nitrous. This difference in flow characteristics can lead to distribution problems and, in some cases, intake backfires. Intakes designed for wet flow (such as with carburetors) cause much less separation of the nitrous/air, and fuel. Because modern fuel injection intakes are designed to flow air only, they have tighter turns and a more compact design as a result. Thus, they generally do not make good candidates for wet flow nitrous systems.

Good point about the wet kit. But also take into consideration the technology that NX has developed in the wet kit. It has a system the delivers a very good hetergenious mixture of air and fuel. There are other wet kits that do well. If your argument is contingent upon one partys product then maybe you need to do some research on some other companies as well. I will research venom. When it comes down to it if A. it isn't tuned properly or B. is abused by the user, that equals a backfire. NOS is touchy stuff sometimes :).

its true a dry kit can be very dangerous if not properly tuned. However an excellent nitrous kit like the vcn-2000 properly tuned will be much better than a wet kit.

The problem with wet kits is there is a difference between the flow of nitrous and fuel, this will cause different a/f ratios among the cylinders with the first running the leanest and last richest, in many case it can cause backfire.

there is a guy in the local autox chapter with a 5.0 that had a backfire on his wet kit and now he also swears only by a dry


here is a more complete explanation:


The same can be said for a dry set up as well. The intake manifolds on most hondas do not distribute the nitrous evenly, which will cause the cylinders to be lean and rich. But for a 50 shot he would be alright with a wet kit. Like I always tell evrybody above 50-65hp go direct port, that is the best way to setup a wet kit. Also wet kits requre alot of tuning also, a device such as a Jacobs nitrous mastermind will help greatly, I have one it will allow you to adjust the fuel soleniod inrichment in relation to the bottle pressure etc. But you have to know how much to richen or lean it out, that is were experiencecomes into play LOL.

Good point about the wet kit. But also take into consideration the technology that NX has developed in the wet kit. It has a system the delivers a very good hetergenious mixture of air and fuel. There are other wet kits that do well. If your argument is contingent upon one partys product then maybe you need to do some research on some other companies as well. I will research venom. When it comes down to it if A. it isn't tuned properly or B. is abused by the user, that equals a backfire. NOS is touchy stuff sometimes :).


I'm sure companies are aware of the problem and have taken steps to compensate. My comment was general not aimed at a single company. its a physical fact that a gas will have very different flow charactesitics than a fluid and its hard to compensate for that.

The final outcome will be determined by your manifold design: in some cars wet kits will work great in other they can mess up your engine.


The same can be said for a dry set up as well. The intake manifolds on most hondas do not distribute the nitrous evenly, which will cause the cylinders to be lean and rich.


I beg to differ. I never heard of a dry setup to cause that problem.

A dry setup just ads, to the normal air coming from the intake, another gas with a higher oxigen content plus the added endotermic effect of an expanding gas. So the nitrous from a dry kit will just arrive in the manifold just as normal air and be treated as such.

On the other hand a wet kit(not direct port) is more akin to adding a small carburetor before a manifold designed to accept and distribute only air and then mix it with fuel. not incoming gas/fuel mix as in old school engines with carbs.

I have the venomVCN-1000 and i like the setup, I have not sprayed yet cause i just finished putting it in but we will see.

I have the venomVCN-1000 and i like the setup, I have not sprayed yet cause i just finished putting it in but we will see.


cool tell us how it woks when you finish installing it.


Btw I'm not that familiar with the vcn 1000 what is the difference between it and the 2000?

it is basically the same thing, as far as basic set up goes, but the vcn2000 has the option to program setups on the computer using a disc and then puting the disc into the computer moduel on the nitrous system to really fine tune it. the vcn1000 does not have that so basically its the setup just like the zex. I have everything installed i just need to get the bottle filled and go to the track. We are going in about three weeks so i will let you guys know.

it is basically the same thing, as far as basic set up goes, but the vcn2000 has the option to program setups on the computer using a disc and then puting the disc into the computer moduel on the nitrous system to really fine tune it. the vcn1000 does not have that so basically its the setup just like the zex. I have everything installed i just need to get the bottle filled and go to the track. We are going in about three weeks so i will let you guys know.

cool than for the info

dry kits are usually considered safer than wet kits, because with wet kits you have a high chance of detonation.

I beg to differ. I never heard of a dry setup to cause that problem.

A dry setup just ads, to the normal air coming from the intake, another gas with a higher oxigen content plus the added endotermic effect of an expanding gas. So the nitrous from a dry kit will just arrive in the manifold just as normal air and be treated as such.

On the other hand a wet kit(not direct port) is more akin to adding a small carburetor before a manifold designed to accept and distribute only air and then mix it with fuel. not incoming gas/fuel mix as in old school engines with carbs.

The dry kit can still cause a lean condition in one cylinder and a rich condition in another. The reason is because the nitrous is added like you say in the intake, but it is in no way anywhere near the same amount, and it will not be distributed as you may think. The result will be more nitrous in one cylinder than another, which as we all know will cause a lean condition because the dry kits bump up the fuel pressure according to bottle pressure. This being said the fuel injectors will add the same amount of fuel to every cylinder as were the nitrous will not be distributed the same in all cylinders. But with a wet kit the fuel and nitrous are mixed and pretty much vaporized ( the technology in the newer nossles make the fan very fine and light spray) and the just like with the dry kit the nitrous will not be distributed evenly either, but the fuel to nitrous ratio will be correct in every cylinder. Nitrous backfires from a wet kit are almost always caused by too low of bottle pressure, improper nossle placement or jetting issue etc, it does not just puddle up in the intake unless something has been done wrong. Also nitrous is a liquid not gas (or at least the part that goes into the motor) nitrous bottles have a siphon tube that goes to the bottom so that it sucks up the liquid instead of the gas that rises to the top part of the bottle. So the nitrous in a dry klit will not flow like air it will flow just the same as the fuel and nitrous that is mixed in a fogger nossle with a wet kit. ;)



dry kits are usually considered safer than wet kits, because with wet kits you have a high chance of detonation.

If you don't know what you are talking about then don't reply:nono:

Also your statement is completely wrong!:loser:

The dry kit can still cause a lean condition in one cylinder and a rich condition in another. The reason is because the nitrous is added like you say in the intake, but it is in no way anywhere near the same amount, and it will not be distributed as you may think. The result will be more nitrous in one cylinder than another, which as we all know will cause a lean condition because the dry kits bump up the fuel pressure according to bottle pressure. This being said the fuel injectors will add the same amount of fuel to every cylinder as were the nitrous will not be distributed the same in all cylinders. But with a wet kit the fuel and nitrous are mixed and pretty much vaporized ( the technology in the newer nossles make the fan very fine and light spray) and the just like with the dry kit the nitrous will not be distributed evenly either, but the fuel to nitrous ratio will be correct in every cylinder. Nitrous backfires from a wet kit are almost always caused by too low of bottle pressure, improper nossle placement or jetting issue etc, it does not just puddle up in the intake unless something has been done wrong. Also nitrous is a liquid not gas (or at least the part that goes into the motor) nitrous bottles have a siphon tube that goes to the bottom so that it sucks up the liquid instead of the gas that rises to the top part of the bottle. So the nitrous in a dry klit will not flow like air it will flow just the same as the fuel and nitrous that is mixed in a fogger nossle with a wet kit. ;)


See this is were you got wrong(hightlighted in bold). The moment nitrous leaves the high pressures of the bottle and lines it will instantly transform in a gas. It has a boiling point of -88.44 C so unless you think you can maintain that kind of themperature in the intake or presures similar to the bottle it will become gas.

Why do you think nitrous is so cold. Its the process of expansion into a gas that creates the endotermic effect.

So bottom line its physics nitrous will flow as a gas trough your intake period. Its flow charactheristics should be very similar to air and quite different from fluid.

See this is were you got wrong(hightlighted in bold). The moment nitrous leaves the high pressures of the bottle and lines it will instantly transform in a gas. It has a boiling point of -88.44 C so unless you think you can maintain that kind of themperature in the intake or presures similar to the bottle it will become gas.

Why do you think nitrous is so cold. Its the process of expansion into a gas that creates the endotermic effect.

So bottom line its physics nitrous will flow as a gas trough your intake period. Its flow charactheristics should be very similar to air and quite different from fluid.
True true the nitrous changes from a liquid to a gas at 20*c about 70-75*F. But it does not change at -88.44*C it changes at 20*C.

Here is some info from NX The "dry" system uses the factory fuel injection to enrich the nitrous introduced into the engine. The flaw with this technology is that no matter how much nitrous arrives at a certain intake port it always gets the same preset amount of fuel, or if a fuel injector becomes clogged engine damage will result. The "Wet" technology introduces a precise amount of fuel and nitrous through a high tech mixing nozzle that atomizes the fuel to microscopic proportions. This allows every cylinder to receive a precise, homogenous mixture of fuel and nitrous, thus insuring a safe, powerful increase.And Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations. 1. A nitrous system that is two rich or a system that atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling or puddling of fuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system that is operated too lean.

This is what I was originally talking about, the wet kits are no more dangerous than a dry kit and if anything safer in the hands of a person that can be reasonable while using it. This is just my opinon and no matter what anybody tells me I will never use a dry kit.

Also one thing I forgot to mention was that the dry kits produce less hp than the wet kits. I tried to find it but there is a dyno test between a NX system and a ZEX system and both were jetted for 50hp. The test car was a civic SI or civic SOHC, and the results were the ZEX kit produced 38whp extra and the NX kit produced 51whp extra. I am pretty sure about the numbers, its been a while sense I have seen it but I do know that the ZEX was in the upper 30 whp range and the NX was either 51 or 52 whp.

True true the nitrous changes from a liquid to a gas at 20*c about 70-75*F. But it does not change at -88.44*C it changes at 20*C.



No

Its boiling point is at -88.44 C

here is the proof:

http://www.bacharach-europe.com/support_gas-nitrous-oxide-n2o.htm
http://mattson.creighton.edu/N2O/
http://vpl.ipac.caltech.edu/spectra/n2o.htm

No

Its boiling point is at -88.44 C

here is the proof:

http://www.bacharach-europe.com/support_gas-nitrous-oxide-n2o.htm
http://mattson.creighton.edu/N2O/
http://vpl.ipac.caltech.edu/spectra/n2o.htm

I can't remember the site URL but I found where it said that nitrous( a liquidfied gas) makes the transistion from liquid gas to vapor at 20C.

This topic just got a little to smart for me. I am gunna have to do alot of research to keep up with you two.