big project mustang, open to suggestions

im doing research right now for a huge project mustang. i jsut wanted to hear some suggsetions from people out there of what they think would be the best components. Heres what i have so far:
351 svo block 4 bolt main (M-6010-W351)
-Cast Iron block material
-9.500" nominal deck height
-454 CID capacity
-Siamese cylinder design
-4.000-4.125" cylinder bore range
-Wet oil sump design
-2.749" crankshaft journal diameter
-Four on 2, 3, 4, 5 main cap bolts
-Nodular iron bearing cap material
-4.250" recommended max. stroke
-750 recommended max. HP @ 8600 RPM
-One piece rear crankshaft seal type
-M-6261-R351 common journal diameter cam required.
M-6261-J351 Std cam bearing design
-Remote oil filter mount
-Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Compatible
-Can be bored/stroked to produce 454 cu. in.
-Weighs approximately 205 lbs
-Circle track and Drag racing
-Semi-finished main bearing bores must be honed to fit
-351 Ford Prof Comp, 9.500 deck height

now i wanted this bored out to a 427ci and i wanted some rods and pistons able to sustain 30psi from a vortech v-4 j trimstyle supercharger that i was thinking about using. I was thining about titanium for the rods and pistons. plus the 4340 forged steel crank that im unsure as right now if it would fit. i need some ideas for heads...now i've never done any custom heads but i was wondering if i could use a dohc so i can get 4 valves per cylinder.
critizisms/comments/ideas let me know i want as much info as possible. thanks

also any big amount of info can be emailed to me at [email protected]

I would not know where to begin.

AFR 225s, and a fricken huge cam:)

that's a good block

i have a similar application, it's a 351W block out of an '84 F-250. 2-bolt main, blah blah. all the standard windsor dimensions. my bottom end is all forged 4340 steel that came from SCAT enterprises, pretty much the best bottom end you can get for the street. website for them is www.scatcrankshafts.com. they're also hooking me up with a matched set of Ross pistons custom made for my compression, rod, and heads. they can sell you a crank to match your specific needs, or custom-grind you one.

the rest of my bottom end (oil delivery, main support/studs, etc) comes from Coast High Performance. they have all sorts of good stuff to put motors together. www.coasthigh.com

the rest is coming either direct from manufacturers (comp, jesel, ect) but all the miscellaneous stuff is at Summit (www.summitracing.com) or Jeg's (www.jegs.com)

for your cam, go with Comp. just about all the major racing teams do. and if for some reason they screw up your cam and it's not within specs, send it back and they'll fall all over themselves fixing it.

with that many cubic inches (mine's 408) you need to really do your homework and make sure that your blower can feed that motor efficiently. it's not as simple as bolting on a blower and stringing belts and oil lines. i almost followed that route. it would have been a $4000 mistake.

why would you want to go DOHC? it's not as efficient as a single cam. besides, to the best of my knowlege it's not possible to retrofit an OHV motor for those heads, which would have to be custom-cast and machined and probably cost you ungodly amounts of money.

from what i can see, Ford motors do extremely well with Trick flow heads. people hype up Edelbrock and AFR but those guys are more Chevy and Mopar oriented, so their Ford heads aren't as good. the best street heads you can get from them are, in my experience, twisted wedge type r. they make more horsepower and torque than AFR heads and cost about half what they do. to put it in perspective, 1 AFR 205cc head costs about $1700. it has portwork and valves and a few other things done to it. on the other hand, complete trick flow heads come as a pair and cost less than 2 grand. then you just take the valves out and port them the way you want them. and you can port the bejesus out of those heads too

whew, most typing i've done in a while. hope i know what i'm talking about, and hope that helps!

I'm sure not everyone will agree with this, but man you're talking about some serious money in this engine and it sounds like you're thinking of picking and putting the parts together yourself. If it were me, I'd contact a good race shop and talk it over with them. Use their experience and expertise. Have them build it. You would definately want that engine balanced and put together by pros to minimize the odds of something going wrong.

i would have the shop balance the block and probally put together most of it but i still want to know every piece that goes into building it. including what the shop does and every step they take to putting it together. but like i said this is just research until i start buying the parts. money is no object when it comes to this project. it may take some time but i dont care if my custom heads cost me a couple grand just for that little performance upgrade.
thanks for the replies and keep em comin,
chris

What do you mean by custom heads?

sorry i was jsut writing...jsut trying to get teh point across that i dont care about the price.

you could just go with AFR 225s. they're expensive as hell (2k+ each) but will probably outperform trick flows. although the trick flows will cost a hell of a lot less, and you can do all the port/valve work to your exact specs.

if you wanna know each and every little tiny part that goes into a motor like that, you need to call a performance engine building shop such as Livernois or Panhandle and talk to them. they'll be a lot more help than we will.

keep in mind that once you get this motor built, you need to focus on getting all that power to the ground.

Money may not be an issue, but I think you're going about this the wrong way. I assume this engine/car is for drag racing? Instead of saying you want to build it for 30psi of boost, you should decide what kind of e.t.'s you are after. It will take a given amount of hp to reach that e.t., then figure out what parts are needed to accomplish that. That is what an engine shop will ask you, among other things. It may not take 30psi to get reach your e.t. goal. They will also ask questions like: Is this car to be street driven? Automatic tranny or manual? Is it for a particular class where rules come into play? The scope of what you're doing is so big and undefined that its nearly impossible to give suggestions. Talk to a race shop.

i want it to be street legal under 10's and auto (figure that much power it would be kidna ridiculous to get a stick)

This does not add up to me.

I'm confused!

But can I have some money seems like you have plenty.