Difference between Dynamic power and RMS.

Im planning on buying a mono MTX amp that say this:

RMS Power 12.5 VDC
2 Ohm Load 1000 w x 1
4 Ohm Load 500 w x 1

Dynamic Power 14.4 VDC
2 Ohm Load 1500 w x 1
4 Ohm Load 750 w x 1

My subs are MTX Thunder 8000s and are 4 ohms. So to get the RMS for the subs, I could go with the amps RMS by splitting the 1000 watt load, but I would rather have the 1500 split and get 750 to each sub. Im just unclear on what 14.4 VDC means and if Im able to get that with my car. Any help would be good.

you really can pretty much ignore the 14.4 ratings. What are the fuse sizes on the amp? also, what are the subs rated? Are the subs DVC,SVC, what? Also, an extra 250 watts per sub will only add about 10db, so yeah it may be about 3 times as loud, but you really don't need it, especially in a neon that probably rattles like mad.

you really can pretty much ignore the 14.4 ratings. What are the fuse sizes on the amp? also, what are the subs rated? Are the subs DVC,SVC, what? Also, an extra 250 watts per sub will only add about 10db, so yeah it may be about 3 times as loud, but you really don't need it, especially in a neon that probably rattles like mad.


going from 1000 to 1500rms will be a 1.8dB increase, it will be audible but not all that much louder

The 12.5V vs 14.4V power ratings just show that it has a pretty unregulated power supply. Meaning an increase in input voltage (from the alt/batt) will give more power by quite a bit. The actual voltage you will operate depends on your car's electrical system, other parts of your audio setup, how the gain is set, how you listen to your music, etc. I would expect about 1200rms out of that on a normal car though, no way you'll be operating at 14.4V with a 1500rms amp blasting away.

Sweet thanks...and youre right it rattles like crazy already. I foamed the trunk and tightened the latch and its gotten better though. What other amps might you recommend that are probably as good as this and possibly cheaper? I dont really want to have a total mutt system though. Im probably gonna stick to MTX for the bass...the Alpine head unit Im getting, and the Pioneer components I have in.

RMS is average power ... dynamic power is peak or max power

I'm pretty sure I've seen amps that had RMS, dynamic, and peak ratings. The rms was always at 12.5, dynamic at 14.4, and the peak at whatever the manufacturer wanted to be at. I was just under the impression that "dynamic" was just a name referring to "at 14.4V", and not another word for peak or max.

I have an MTX Blue Thunder Pro752 which is spec'd at:

37.5W RMS/CH into 4Ohms @ 12.5VDC
75W RMS/CH into 2Ohms @ 12.5VDC
150W RMS Bridged into 4Ohms @12.5VDC
280W Dynamic Power (IHF-202) Bridged into 4 Ohms @ 14.4 VDC

The Dynamic Power rating is the maximum peak power rating of the amplifier and is usually ~2x the RMS value, which the numbers above support. The reason they are spec'ing that value @ 14.4VDC is because that is when the amplifier will reach its maximum rated output. Its dynamic or peak output into a stereo 4Ohm load @ 12.5VDC may be 80W but thats only 160W total. Its overall maximum peak is delivered at maximum DC input voltage and minimum output impedence in the particular case of my amplifier. I *believe* the IHF-202 standard is always measured @ 14.4VDC but I am not sure what rules the output impedence and configuration follow.

As I am sure everyone else in here will tell you, do not base you amplifer purchase on Dynamic or "Peak" power. RMS is where its at.

yes any time you buy stereo stuff look at the rms power. the peak power is bull s#!t.
I would run the subs in parallel so they will be at 2 ohms. and bridge the amp.

actually, if I remember correctly, dynamic power was like how much max power an amp could put out with a 20 ms burst input. It was a measure of peak transient power

what mtx amp is it?
i got a mtx 942 i will let go cheap its just sitting in my room

I just looked at those Tsunami amps and realized Im planning on paying for an amp which you dont think is as near as good as these Tsunami ones, and theyre the same price or cheaper. The DB-1800 is a 1800x1 amp WRMS (?) at 2 ohms...and that would give me 900 to each speaker. But then the DB-1100 is a 1100x1 amp...which Im not sure if I could use for my subs...since theyre 4 ohm. That amp is considerably cheaper, and if I could get at least 600 to each sub that would be awesome. I just need someone who knows about these amps to respond, which is probably you Haibaine...But any input would help so I dont end up wasting my money. Id rather have a mutt system that sounds awesome than spend a ton of money for the same or worse sound.

I have two Tsunami amps and I love them. I haven't had any problems from them at all and they're about to blow my audiobahn subs....oh well then ill get my shivas. The only problem I've hac is they were getting a little toasty after playing it w/ the volume up for 4 hours, but they were no where near too hot.

I love tsunami amps. Go to www.edesignaudio.com (http://www.edesignaudio.com) for a good warranty on the amps and a decent price. You have to click one of the subs and then click amps on the bar on the left. Now I will give you my horror story on one of their amps. I bought a GXA-1000D off of ebay. OLD amp made by tsunami. I had to send it in for repairs after trying to hook it up and fix it multiple times. The amp cost me 100 to by and 100 to fix. Not too bad, but when I got it back they told me ther was a load of SH** inside the amp that didn't need to be there and it was all ghetto rigged. It was refurbished, so some company did a bad fix job. Amp ran a day, I had to take it in the next day, came back out with it working fine free of charge. I don't suggest trying to buy off ebay these amps, but this is the cleanest amp I have ever heard. I heard a lot of the amps made at NOPIs.

does the dynamic power have anything to do with turning up the gain on ur amp?.. and when u turn the gain up does it create more distortion?

Gain matches with the voltage output on your headunit. When you don't have it set, which contrary to popular belief, IMO whether too high or too low can cause really bad distortion. Take for example my friend's kenwood class D top of the line with his Kenwood headunit top of the line. He had two CVR 12s in there and they sounded like utter crap. Turn the gains up till more than half and it is getting good clean power.

So this would probably be the best amp?

1800 WATT CLASS T DIGITAL POWER AMPLIFIER
* Advanced Tri-Path High Efficiency Digital Design
* 1x 900 WRMS @ 4 Ohm Mono .1% THD
* 1 x 1800 WRMS @ 2 Ohms Mono .5% THD

because this amp...

* Cascade with an Additional DB-1100D for 2200 Watts RMS Power @ 2 Ohms.
* 1 x 330 WRMS @ 4 Ohm Mono .05% THD.
* 1 x 650 WRMS @ 2 Ohm Mono .1% THD.
* 1 x 1100 @ 1 Ohm Mono .5% THD.

...wont work unless I DID buy that extra one, or else I would be splitting the 650 in half...right? If I could split the 1 ohm load thatd be cool but my subs arent 2 ohm.

Can you tell me exactly what subs you have and if they are SVC or DVC

15" MTX Thunder 8000 Series with Single 4 ohm voicecoil. 600 rms - 1200 max. In a sealed box.

1st amp, but you will have to adjust the gain pretty low probably so as not to distort the sub

Sweet...Ill probably go for that one...But will 500-600 to each be better than the 900? If the 900 would be safe, id rather have that...and louder.

You'll be doing about 600 to each, well you will be doing 900 each, but when you turn the gains to the proper setting it will be like doing 600 each because it will do the RMS and it won't blow the sub or distort

I am running 1000+ W RMS into 2 JL 12W6's (300 W RMS ea) ..... for like 3-4 years now