Experts, please Help !!

Hi All,

I have a 1999 Camry 4Cyl, which I bought as a Certified Used Vehicle 2 years ago. I gave the car to a toyota service center for 60K service. The serviceman told me that the water pump was damaged and needs to be replaced. He also feels that it might be good idea to replace the Timing belt at this time. (I dont want to, I know that it costs more if done separately at 90K).
He's not yet sure if the belt too is damaged as a result of damaged water pump. He has yet to see it.

The Cost of water pump is covered under Toyota Certification.
Timing belt is also covered but only if broken.

My question is : Should I get T/B replaced now?
Is it true that T/B gets damaged by a damaged Water pump?

I'm thinkin of going ahead with W/P replacement but not T/B. Do you guys see any issues with it?

What is the chance, the dealer will use Genuine parts?

Thanks a lot

dealer almost always uses genuine parts
personally , i would do the tbelt while they are in there, if the pump bearing went, could damage the tbelt, also, doing the thermostat is a good idea. you have it out anyway, couple of extra bucks, getting the free labor anyway,

"Should I get T/B replaced now"
Yes, replacing a timing belt is cheap when you only have to pay for the part. There isn't much additional labor when the front of the engine is already apart for the water pump.

"Is it true that T/B gets damaged by a damaged Water pump?"
It is possible, but not necessarily a foregone conclusion that the water pump has damaged it. Depends on the failure mode of the water pump and, if it has leaked, how badly it is leaking.

"What is the chance, the dealer will use Genuine parts?"
The dealer will use genuine parts for this repair with 100% certainty. The water pump will not be billable to Toyota if they don't use a Toyota pump.

(oops, got beat to the post)

If the car still runs, I'd say with 100% certainty that the belt is still ok. The waterpump is driven by the back side of the timing belt, the side without the teeth on it. If the pump bearing goes bad, and the pump locks up, it will damage the belt.
The timing belt has to be completely removed to replace the water pump. The idler pulley that is behind the bottom half of the front cover must be removed to pull the water pump off, so the belt has to come off. My dealership sells timing belts for about $45.00. Most dealers are slightly higher, but there should be no labor at all to replace the belt. If they want to charge you labor, tell them that the belt is already off, so what would they want to charge you labor.
Might as well do the belt now.

I agree, just go ahead and get the belt changed while you're having it in for service anyways. Best to get it done and over with, and to avoid the chance of having problems with belt damage after all that work being done.

The recommended mileage for t/b replacement is 70k miles on the Camry, from what I'm told. It's a part that all the experts have urged me to get changed on time, so I'd replace it now. You'll need to change it after another 70k miles, if you keep the car.

Thanks a lot guys,

I'm a first timer for this forum and I have seen how wonderful this forum is.

I would have gone for the T/B replacement too along with the Pump but my serviceman says it would cost me $325 if i do it now and $400 if I do it at 90K later on. I dont know if I will have this car at 90K and moreover I drive just about 8K per year. So 90K is another 3 years for me. I wont spend $325 now to save $75-$100 3 years from now...What do you say?

Another thing, My serviceman asked me to get coolant and one more thing(you see I'm a novice in automobiles and related terminology) flushed at a cost of about $165 each. HE says it's getting very dark.....
I've heard that sometimes they dont flush completely before filling in the new fluids, which causes problems later... Any clues what he may be talking about.....

thanks again guys!!

Just between us novices, $165 for a radiator flush is pretty steep. Texaco Lube does it for $50, and they really flush the system. There's a difference between just draining the radiator and actually flushing out the whole system. When the radiator is drained, there's still more fluid in the rest of the system, which has to be flushed out with new coolant.

gogia,

There should be no additional labor cost to replace the belt now. It should only be the $45 part cost as Earndog1369 pointed out. The belt is already off to replace the water pump and has to be put back on during reassembly, whether it is a new or used belt. If you still can, call them back and ask them why they want to charge additional labor to put a new belt on now.

I would definitely put the new belt on now if they agree, as they should, to put it on only for the cost of the belt.

Mike

I just absolutely love the dealer B.S. and their charges.

PLEASE read the fine print. Make sure they don't charge you for "replacing" the T/B too. IF they get a chance, they will. Get up front that they won't charge extra. You'll end up with a $1k bill with no problem.

I rest my case about sticking u with other stuff with your $165 radiator flush.... Geezzz, give me a break. Go find a small family run radiator shop. He'll do it for $50 I'll bet 'cha.

I paid $180 labor for my Miata to change the T/B, water pump.

A genuine T/B is around $29.

All the seals, "genuine" Mazda water pump and T/B, all the gaskets known to man, and whatever other parts were $134, on line from a Mazda dealer, delivered.

Find an INDEPENDENT mechanic who will talk to you and you can trust. Talking to a service writer is not a substitute for talking to the guy who actually worked on your car. Some unknown face working on a car he'll never see again does not inspire a lot of confidence, imho.

A timing belt & water pump is not rocket scientist stuff.

Good luck

The service writer told me it would cost $325 extra if I do T/B now (that is with water pump already being done). I asked him not to do T/B at this time. I thought I will spend $400 3 years later than spending $325 now. But from your responses, I came to know that it should have cost me only $40 or so for the part. If he had told me so, I would have gone for it, but he was charging $325 more for T/B work.
what's done is done. That Guy did not make any money himself but robbed me of a good chance to get my T/B replaced at no labor cost. The servicing is done now and I have my car back without new T/B.
I dont think I'll have this car at 90K or 3 years from now, but Atleast I found one good thing out of this. And that is - I have a wonderful group of wonderful people to advise me on my auto matters in the future and I'm not alone now when it comes to making costly decisions on my car......

Thanks guys !! I really really appreciate your help and advice !!!

Anytime you need help man, that's what we're all here for.

Don't go back to that dealer for anything...

I'm not going back to him even if he offers me free services.
BTW, my service writer called me today and told me he would send a survey to me regarding my experience with them. He told me he would be giving me free oil change coupon if i fill in the survey(With positive feedback I guess).
Look at them, After all this, they expect me give them positive feedback... I'm eagerly waiting for the survey questionnaire in my mail.......

Can u imagine all the stuff wrong they will find with your car when u bring it in for the "FREE" oil change???

Like I said earlier, FIND A FRIENDLY MECHANIC !!! Ask around the local parts houses for a knowlegable, friendly guy. Parts houses deliver parts to everybody in town and can point u to a bunch to interview.

Good Luck

gogia

When you get the survey, fill it out and send it back to Toyota's corporate headquarters in Torrance, California rather than the dealer. Or give them a call at 1-800-331-4331 and talk to customer service and share your experience with them. I have a friend who is an ex-Toyota tech and he once told me Toyota really frowns on dealers trying to "double dip" on labor costs.

Sorry you had a bad experience.

Mike

I'm having another problem. I posted it in another thread but nobody seems to care about it. Maybe the subject line is not catchy enough. The pad inside my remote key fob(the latex pad with buttons on it) is melted and the buttons are about to fall off. Any idea where can i get the pad from.

Fob is ok. Everywhere I searched, I could find only the fob as a whole and not just the pad which i need...

Any help ???
thanks again guys