EGR Valve

anybody know where the EGR Valve is located for a 94 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer 4.3L Vortec? Also could this help with starting problems, and hard breaking then stalling? Any help is much appreciated! :banghead:

It's located in front of the engine directly under the intake port... That said, a clogged EGR will cause rough idle.. Your problem sounds more like a severe vac leak... Pull and check the brake booster hose going to the upper plenum for leaks, also check the rest of your vac hoses... One of these is probably your issue more so than the EGR... If you really wanna pull your egr, pull it, clean it with carb cleaner and a wire brush, make sure the pintle is clear and replace...

Thanks for the help! Pulled it Cleaned it, but still having problems with the truck starting. Also did a full tune up, replaced fuel filter, PCV, and fuel pump relay. I can get it to start with some starting fluid, and it runs great once started, just having problems when the motor cools off to restart. Vac all looks ok, and can hear the fuel pump humming when key is in on position. Also checked the Fuel pressure and its ok. Any other suggestions?

Pull your upper plenum and look for signs of washing (where one side is cleaner than the other) If the passenger side is washed, it's your CPI, if the driver's side is washed, it's your nut kit..If you do replace the CPI, replace the nut kit as well.

How hard is it to replace the CPI? Also have any idea what that will cost?

Very easy to replace... Cost will be about 250.00 from Advance Auto Parts....(DO NOT BUY ONLINE! If you do, you will be hard pressed returning it under warranty as you will be without your truck while it's being shipped...etc) The nut kit is $45.00 from the dealer (Dealer item only) Overall the job takes about 40 mins for a begginer...

Remove the upper plenum... Put paper towls in ALL intake holes (prevents dropping something down into the cylinders) Pull each poppet nozzle... Disconnect wire connector... Pull CPI. Install in reverse..(Doesn't matter which hose goes to what cylinder as it is batch fired)... Torque bolts in sequence to 8 ft pounds... Drive...:)

rlith...
You make this sound simple...

Had mine replaced a few months ago...
Now, I am blessed with what I call good gas milage...

It is great to have this done...

How long before one has to do this again...?

Mine has 142,000 miles...1993...

I have a '93 S-10 blazer that had similar problems. By CPI do you mean the fuel injector? If you do, it cost me $499.95 for the part alone. Then another $85 for the fuel lines and like $15 for the upper intake gasket. And then there was labor...

What exactly is the CPI? Calling around to locate one and nobody seems to know what I am talking about. Is it me or are they the dummies??? You never know when talking to some of these people, they dont sound too bright:)

I always thought the CPI was the type of fuel injector. I think that's what he's talking about. You have to remove the upper intake gasket and the injector looks like an octopus when you take it out. It has 6 lines(3 on each side I think). Atleast that's how it was in my '93 blazer. Depending on what type of engine you have it can be very costly or not too bad. If you have the 4.3 Vortec "W" code S-10 blazer like you said above, read my previous post. If one of those 6 lines is bad you have to replace the whole injector which is $500. Plus they'll probably advise you to replace the fuel lines leading in to the injector which is another $85. My blazer runs good now but that fix almost broke me. You could atleast have someone take a look at those lines to see if any of them are leaking. I know by reading consumer reviews on this model of blazers that the fuel injector is prone to leaking. Mine lasted 133,000 miles before it leaked. Good luck!

Thanks for the help! Im just kinda hoping that this is all thats wrong with it. What was wrong with yours when you replaced it?

First of all the injector problem didn't pick up a code on the GM dealership's scanner so it took them a little while to find the problem. One of the 6 lines or hoses that are part of the injector unit was leaking. When I would be stopped at a red light or if my blazer was just idling it would start to die out or idle real low until it died. It didn't do it very often. Just like once or twice a day. When I'd be driving at a reasonable speed it would be fine. Turned out one that one line was leaking. Look at your VIN on the blazer. The 10 digit or so from the left is probably a "W". I think it's that way with all vortec engines.

With the year of my blazer they told me you can't replace just that one line, you have to replace the whole unit. If that's your problem maybe you can get a cheaper price that $500 but I don't think it'd be that much lower.

Yeah mine is a "W", but I am wondering if this is going to help me, my main problem is getting it to start when the motor is cold. I can get it to start with some starting fluid, and it runs fine after starting, just as soon as that motor cools it will not start back up. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, a full tune up, and I can hear the fuel pump humming. But the other day when I was driving it I also had it stall out on me at a light, not sure what to do.

Yeah that's weird. My injector problem was about a month ago. Within the last week I had another problem with my blazer quitting so much I couldn't drive it anywhere. This took the dealership a day and a half to figure out that it was a bad iginition module and a faulty PCM. My blazer runs great now. But it's hard to say if an ignition module is your problem. I'm just telling you that's what was wrong with mine, other than the CPI injector issue.

I have a '93 S-10 blazer that had similar problems. By CPI do you mean the fuel injector? If you do, it cost me $499.95 for the part alone. Then another $85 for the fuel lines and like $15 for the upper intake gasket. And then there was labor...

Holy shiat! It's only $250.00 at advance auto parts!

Yeah mine is a "W", but I am wondering if this is going to help me, my main problem is getting it to start when the motor is cold. I can get it to start with some starting fluid, and it runs fine after starting, just as soon as that motor cools it will not start back up. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, a full tune up, and I can hear the fuel pump humming. But the other day when I was driving it I also had it stall out on me at a light, not sure what to do.

Like I said, Pull the upper plenum and check for signs of washing...

Gonna pull this weekend. Calling around for the CPI, Cheapest I found was $399 and $85 for the nut kit. SUCKS!!!!!! Considering Ebay? They had one for $230 (CPI). Anyone think this would be a bad idea?

Pulled the plenum, extremely bad smell of gas! Washed on the Passenger side. Now waiting on CPI and gonna go ahead and replace the nut kit as well, just because don't wanna have to do it later! Thanks for all the advice guys! Gonna replace this weekend, probobly saturday. Will give you an update when done! Thanks again everyone!!!

Oh yeah also forget to tell everyone, found a CPI at Advanced for 270.49 but was not in stock, so I am picking it up tomorrow. Just had to get someone who knows what they are talking about, had to go to another store a little further away. But hey it works alot better than $399. Only thing is its a GP Sorensen, not AC Delco. Thanks rlith saved me alot of money!! Not having to pay dealership to tell me the problem!

Well replaced the CPI today also the nut kit. $400 later,still nothing! Gonna go crazy here, what else could be the problem???????? Fuel pressure is good. Anyone have any ideas? Please help!

Did you pull and clean the EGR while it was out? BTW, your gas miledge should go up now..GP Sorenson are decent products, you shouldn't have a prob with it..

hi i have a 1994 4.3 Vortec "W" code S-10 blazer
rough idle getting error codes 32 and 34..tuned it up but still same...any ideas???

Still having a problem pondod? You have the same luck as I do but mine is running perfect right now. I had a tough time starting my blazer or I'd have a problem with it staying running for more than 20 seconds. I wouldn't have guessed but it turned out to be a faulty ignition module. Just a suggestion...

Thanks! That would be my luck too, after spending almost $400 on CPI and Nut kit. Not a total loss though will at least get better gas mileage, much needed with gas priced so high and going up. That is if I can get the Beotch to run. I will try the ignition module, who knows might work. rlith-yup pulled the egr and cleaned it.

Speaking of cleaning the EGR valve I should probably do that. I don't think it's been cleaned for quite awhile. I've never taken it off before. Is it pretty easey to remove? What do you use to clean it? Is there a chemical you spray in there to clean the carbon?

pretty easy to remove, not sure about the cleaner, just used a wire brush. Mine wasnt that bad really.

carb cleaner and a wire brush

I just found a company called tomco that sells egr valve gaskets with a mesh screen to filter the carbon from blocking the valve. I've read great reviews on this product. www.tomco-inc.com if anybody is interested.

Most autoparts stores sell those as well, but the EGR mod is better... Gives the same result, also gives you slightly better gas miledge, as well better throttle response and slightly better torque at low-mid range in the power band...All without affecting emissions..

Someone please help! Going crazy here. Replaced the CPI and Nut kit, and now trying to start and just getting a "click". Thought maybe the starter was bad so pulled it and had it tested, nope its good. Replaced anyways, but still nothing. Not the battery because uts fully charged, and tested it to start my other vehicle and worked. Even tryed the battery from my other vehicle. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM????????????? Anyone out there who can help?

sounds like your starter solenoid or one of your power wires is bad...

but when i dropped the starter and tapped the key it worked.

If it's a weak solenoid, it will turn when there is no tension on it, but when you put torque on it from the fly wheel the starter may not be strongt enough to turn it...

but i even replaced the starter with a brand new one, just to eliminate it as the problem. Also checked all the fuses, and they are good.

Then you have a bad wire some place... Make sure none of your ground straps came off... or are loose...

where are the ground straps?

there are several... Fist check that your main ground is not loose on the block, then check all the straps going from the body to the frame, and check the ground on the starter

alright will do, thanks for all your help.

ok now what, all the wiring/grounds look good.

I'm out of suggestions other than take it to the dealership. Did you check out the ignition module?

well replaced the battery cable that goes to the starter and now getting it to crank, almost to start but not quite. SO CLOSE!!! Any other suggestions anyone. Really dont wanna pay to tow to dealership, and be stuck with a huge bill for something simple that i may be missing. Definately have spark, checked it. PLEASE HELP!!!

Just an update, well finally got her to start. Now another problem, ticking noise coming from motor. Thinking maybe lifter. Also only way to get her to start was with some starting fluid. Drove around the parking lot and ticking did not get louder or quieter just stays the same. Any suggestions, ready to take this headache in!

man dont spend all that money u can buy fuel pressure regulator by itself and not get complete injector assy. also egr will cause low vacume if it sticks open and hard to start at idle will have to push accelpedal a little to start and when comming to a stop pedal will get hard and have poor braking women will notice more than men

come on guys dont keep spending all that money save it and take the little woman out like i said injector very seldom goes bad pressure regulator leaks or line nut kit leaks regulator can be bought seperate 59.00 i can get them. plenum gasket 10-12 bucks napa advance or dealer.line kit 60 bucks wholesale gm dealer. as for egr after cleaning take pocket screwdriver and push up on pintle and check to see if it sticks or when fully seated check for sticking if so just replace advance has them just as good as dealer also gm had recall on some egrs and computer prom update to help carbon problem

WELL ANOTHER UPDATE. GOT HER RUNNING FINALLY BUT IDILING REALLY ROUGH, READ SOMEWHERE ON THE NET THAT THE EGR CAN CAUSE A TICKING NOISE, AND CAN ALSO ACT AS A MONSTER VACUUM LEAK. THINKING THIS IS THE PROBLEM. ANY INPUT BEFORE I DROP $200 INTO A NEW EGR???
It's really pretty simple - it can be open when it isn't supposed to be, or it can be closed when it is supposed to be open. Not rocket science, but it is science. If it is open when it is not supposed to be open, at idle for instance, It will act like one monster vacuum leak and the engine will not idle or will idle really roughly. If it doesn't open when it is supposed to open you will probably experience a symptom of "pinging" or "knocking" since the combustion chamber temperature will be higher than normal (one of the main causes of pinging in an engine).