S-10 Warmup and Stall

Hello All....

My vehicle is a 1987 Chevy S-10 Pickup
2.8 litre V-6
Throttle Body Injection
5 Speed Manual Transmission

I have read several posts related to this type of problem
and am having similar symptoms and have replaced a few
parts but to no avail.

SYMPTOMS:
S-10 Starts and runs fine (Weather/Temp Not a factor)
S-10 Runs until approximately normal temp then stalls and will not start
S-10 Cranks but NO fuel flow
S-10 Sits for awhile (long enough for engine to cool down) then
starts and runs fine again until normal operating temp is
reached and then it repeats the same stalling scenario.

REPLACED:
Fuel Pump (inside fuel tank)
Fuel Strainer (inside fuel tank)
Fuel Filter
Oil/Fuel Sensor/Switch
Checked Wiring to fuel pump (ok)

I also recently replaced the alternator and sending unit for the
temp gauge.

Also the engine is NOT overheated when it stalls but it seems
like something is making the thing THINK it's overheating and
shutting down the fuel.

Any help would be appreciated!!! Getting real frustrated over
this one.......

Dave

I just replaced:

1. Ignition Module
2. MAP Sensor

Now it won't start at all unless I spray starter fluid
into the carburator. Of course it don't keep running
but this proves it has spark. But, the injectors have
stopped working. DUH.... What am I missing here?

Dave

Anyone that happens to read this......

I replaced the Ignition Module and it resolved the problem.

When I romoved the old module I noticed a photo cell on
it and looking closely at the cell I noticed it appeared scorched
in that area. Pretty obvious clue.....

Maybe someone else will benifit from this discovery.

Thanks
DAve

I had this problem about 2 weeks ago. Turned out to be the ignition module also. It took the GM dealership a day and a half to find this problem...oh well it runs excellent now.

it is you injector it will cost you around $300
I had it haped about two months ago, and don't bring it to a dealer or you will pay $500 just for the injuector, not including the labor

I took the ignition control module to a place and had it tested. The testing said that it was fine. Problem here is this, It's an intermitten problem. Doesn't happen all the time, so basically, did it just so happen to be fine when it was tested? This is what i'm wondering. I'd hate to spend 30 bucks and change it out and it tested just fine. It is old, 1988 s10 4.3 vin Z. I knew that I should have bought that Typhoon!
Then it would be worth the effort to spend time on.

worst case scenario, buy it and if is still not fixed take the new one back

After changing out all those parts and shelling out some serious cash that I really could have used on something else, I think that I figured it out.
Now I was thinking about this constantly, I would even take it to work until finally my Boss asked me "What day is it?" And I didn't know. This is how involved I got over this problem. :screwy: My Girlfriend was starting to get worried, and so was I! I drove home from a test drive and again, it began to stall. So I didn't give it time to mellow out. I instantly jumped out of my blaze and popped the hood and caught it while the thing was sputtering...I ripped off the air filter assembly and got my face right over the TBI unit. I wanted to see if this was a fuel dillivery issue or not for once and for all. Plenty of fuel shooting from my beloved fuel injectors. I then thought...With everything that I have replaced, why is it still doing this? Then I decided to do what I have always put off in doing, And thats buying a timing gun. I checked it out and noticed that my timing was off. I stayed up the entire night cleaning parts and finally got to fixing the timing. I test drove it right after and "P0Of!" It didn't stall...Not even once! Have I solved the riddle? Quite possibly! Funds dictate that if I didn't solve the riddle soon, I'd have to show up at wal-mart for a bicycle innertube PDQ! I drove around town..Stopped, took off, stopped and took off many many times and not one stall. So I tip toed through the kitchen not bothering the cat, he snored and he dreamt like a snooty little rat. I climbed into the shower and washed as I hummed, I was one happy camper, not a bike riding bum. I now type with my burnt fingers, the manifold was very hot, The distributor zapped me, but it did wake me op....Uh, up. Well, I had to make it ring didn't i? :naughty:
I hope this helps you guys out. I know that many times when we ask questions about a car problem, some people will find a fix and not share it because they are now happily on their way. But, I could not do this to you all. Now, this may not fix your problem, But It sure is worth a try.
Stay faithful to the Blaze!
It's not a question of it ever running again, It's a question of how many more naked chicks you can get into the back of the blazer with the back seats down. OOOoooowwwww!
:loser:

Well, i'm back to inform that timing wasn't the issue. I'm back to a stalling blazer and also of course, back to square one. :banghead:

Ignition Control Module. I just bought a new one and test drove it. I think that this is a winner. Tomorrow is the real test...Driving out in this arizona heat during the day. If everything goes ok, I will come back to this site and let everybody know. It's been a costly :2cents: journey, I'm just hoping that I can now journey down these Arizona Highways without stalling out.
Bus'it! :smokin:

Don't waste your time, the ignition control module isn't the problem. I'm just glad that i get to take it back and get a refund for it.
At my wits end. Any possible help would be greatly appreciated on this.
Like I stated before in another post, this is my only vehicle and it looks like i'm going to be missing a whole hell lot of hours at work.
I drive it for about 6 to 10 miles and when I come up to a stop light, I then take off on the green and it sputters and stalls.
Replaced:
Fuel filter
EGR valve
spark plugs and wires
distributor cap and rotor
ignition module
oil pressure sensor.
1988 4.3 s10 blazer Vin Z

Did you check to see if the distributor itself is not nfact cracked.... This is the problem i am having now.

This sounds just like my problem (see post warm engine stuttering/stalling)
I guess whoever figures it out first gets first prize!

My problem is an oil pressure issue. When the oil pressure falls to a certain point, it will save itself and shut down. At first I didn't know what was going on because my oil pressure sensor was broken and not working. I changed to a new one and found out what was going on. I thought that it was my fuel pump, but I just changed that out lastnight which took 8 hours to do. A word of warning...If you plan on changing out the fuel pump and it's inside of the tank. Save yourself alot of heart ache and drain the tank all the way. Any amount hurts, believe me. I thought that anything under a quarter tank would be enough. I was wrong. I changed mine out by myself. I don't know how I did it, It is definitely a two man job. I've also had my fill of being my own mechanic, It's hopefully off to the shop this friday. I'm out of here.
Take care all and thanks for all of your help and suggestions.

9 out of ten times it is either the module or crank sensor

same problem replaced coil and ignition control and its fine now

I have a 1985 Lincoln 5.0L with Throttle Body and it will start and run beautifully for about 4 minutes and then quit and then will NOT restart. Sounds like the same problem as you were having. I too have replaced many parts and was getting ready to drop the tank, but really don't want to do that.

PLEASE tell me if you got yours fixed and if so, what the final thing was. You stated on July 21 you were taking it to a shop, so I do hope you found the problem.

ANYONE, PLEASE help as this is my only mode of transpertation and I need help fast, as I don't have much money and no one to help me.

Thanks in advance for everyones help!!!

replace the control module and coil u will be good to go 100 percent

Thanks for the help. I plan on buying those 2 parts and replacing them on Monday, as I have to work the weekend. I looked at it today and if I understand right, you are talking about the Ignition Module/Control Unit, which on my car is attached to the distributor. I didn't have a socket small enough to take it off and looks like I will have to use a distributor wrench and take the distributor at least part way out to get to it. Is this correct, or is there an easier way to replace this part? Thanks again for all your help in advance!!!

Did it fix it? I have a similar problem with my S10 pickup 4.3Lv6 1991

still searching for the right thing. When you treplaced the coildid you measure it? Mine measures how the Haynes manual say it should.

Sorry for not posting last Thursday, as that is when I replaced the last 2 pieces, the "Ignition Control Module" and the "coil". I replaced those 2 pieces, after doing all the other full tune up things and a couple extra ones too. I had already changed the fuel filter, all 8 spark plugs and all the wires, the pcv valve, the rotor button, and the distributor cap, and both the breather filter (the smaller one) and the regular air filter in the breather. If you remember from my post above, after doing all these things (except the last 2 items) then car would start up and run for about 4 minutes and run good, but then cut off and wouldn't restart. After replacing the "Ignition Control Module" and the "Ignition Coil", I started the car up and let it run for at least 10 minutes and then drove over to a friends place close to mine and let the car idle while talking with him for a few minutes and then drove home. The next morning I made a short trip of about 7 miles each way and had no problems. Then I drove it about 43 miles on Friday to my shop at the flea market and again had no problems, then home on Sunday another 43 miles well actually a little more as I came home a different way and it seems to be fixed. I hope this will help others in the future with the same or similiar problems. Thanks to everyone that posted in this thread and please do so in the future, so we can all help each other out!!!

For all reading this the IAC and TPS fixed my stall then no start condition untill it cooled off, then it would start again. I had fire after I stalled. One time I did not and traced to computer problem That fixed the fire problem as the esc in distributer was removed and tested three times.