Auto Trans fluid
mtdxx
03-23-2004, 03:55 PM
how do you check the auto trans fluid level on the 97 malibus? there is no dipstick that I can see. just a fill hole. Is there anything I should be aware of on these if I change the trans fluid?
burly
03-24-2004, 04:35 AM
Quite simply, you don't. Its a sealed tranmission that under normal usage doesn't get a flush and change until 100K, 50K under what GM considers harsh duty. Since it is sealed, unless there are leaks, you should have nothing to worry about. I can post the exact method to check the fluid level if you would like, but it does require have the car up on a lift, with the engine running, and removing a certain fill screw on the transmission. Lemme know if you want the procedure, but it is not a simple pull this - read that.
mtdxx
03-24-2004, 12:52 PM
sure, post it, i'll give it a look. I'm at 91K now. I'll be needing to do it soon. And if I do not do it myself, i'll know what the garage should have done.
burly
03-24-2004, 08:18 PM
To check:
Start with a cool engine. Then, with the vehicle raised and safely supported, start the engine, then move the shift lever through all the gear ranges, ending in Park.
With the engine running and the transaxle at normal operating temperature (having idled 3 to 5 minutes) locate the check plug on the transaxle. The check plug is located near the pan, adjacent to the engine oil drain plug.
Place an oil container under the check plug and remove it. Observe the fluid as it drips into the pain, indicating correct fluid level.
The fluid level should be at the bottom of the check hole. If fluid pours out excessively, the transaxle may have been overfilled. Double-check to make sure the vehicle is level. If no fluid drips from the check hole, add small amounts of fluid through the vent/fill cap at the top of the transaxle until the level is at the bottom of the check hole. A long-necked funnel will be necessary to add fluid.
The condition of ht fluid should also be check along with the level. If the fluid in the drain pan is adark reddish-brown color, or if the fluid has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you're in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell.
Be sure to install the check plug and tighten it securely when you are done.
To change:
At the specified time intervals, the transaxle fluid should be drained and replaced. Since the fluid will remain hot long after driving, perform this procedure only after everything has cooled down completely.
Before beginning work, purchase the specified transaxle fluid and a new filter.
Other tools necessary for this job include jackstands to support the vehiclein a raise position, a drain pan capable of holding several quarts, newspapers and clan rags.
Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.
With a drain pan in place, remove the front andd side transaxle pan mounting bolts.
Loosen the rear pan bolts one turn.
Carefully pry the transaxle pan loose with a screwdriver, allowing the fluid to tdrain.
Remove the remaining bolts, pan, and gasket. Carefully clean the gasket surface of the transaxle to remove all traces of the old gasket and sealant.
Drain the fluid from the transaxle pan, clean the pan with solvent and dry it with compressed air. Be careful not to lose the magnet.
Remove the filter and pry out the seal.
Push a new filter seal fully into its bore, then install the new filter.
Make sure the gasket surface on the transaxle pan is clean, then install the new gasket. Put the pan in place against the transaxle and install the bolts. Working around the pan, tighten each bolt a little at a time until the final torque figure is reached. Note: GM recommends using new bolts, and coating the threads with a thin film of RTV sealant.
Lower the vehicle and add the specified amount of automatic transmission fluid through the vent/fill cap and check the fluid level.
Check under the vehicle for leaks during the first few trips.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid: Dexron III automatic Transaxle fluid
Automatic transaxle
fluid and filter change: 7 qts
Dry, including torque converter: 13qts
Pan bolts and fluid level check plug torque: 108in-lbs
Start with a cool engine. Then, with the vehicle raised and safely supported, start the engine, then move the shift lever through all the gear ranges, ending in Park.
With the engine running and the transaxle at normal operating temperature (having idled 3 to 5 minutes) locate the check plug on the transaxle. The check plug is located near the pan, adjacent to the engine oil drain plug.
Place an oil container under the check plug and remove it. Observe the fluid as it drips into the pain, indicating correct fluid level.
The fluid level should be at the bottom of the check hole. If fluid pours out excessively, the transaxle may have been overfilled. Double-check to make sure the vehicle is level. If no fluid drips from the check hole, add small amounts of fluid through the vent/fill cap at the top of the transaxle until the level is at the bottom of the check hole. A long-necked funnel will be necessary to add fluid.
The condition of ht fluid should also be check along with the level. If the fluid in the drain pan is adark reddish-brown color, or if the fluid has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you're in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell.
Be sure to install the check plug and tighten it securely when you are done.
To change:
At the specified time intervals, the transaxle fluid should be drained and replaced. Since the fluid will remain hot long after driving, perform this procedure only after everything has cooled down completely.
Before beginning work, purchase the specified transaxle fluid and a new filter.
Other tools necessary for this job include jackstands to support the vehiclein a raise position, a drain pan capable of holding several quarts, newspapers and clan rags.
Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.
With a drain pan in place, remove the front andd side transaxle pan mounting bolts.
Loosen the rear pan bolts one turn.
Carefully pry the transaxle pan loose with a screwdriver, allowing the fluid to tdrain.
Remove the remaining bolts, pan, and gasket. Carefully clean the gasket surface of the transaxle to remove all traces of the old gasket and sealant.
Drain the fluid from the transaxle pan, clean the pan with solvent and dry it with compressed air. Be careful not to lose the magnet.
Remove the filter and pry out the seal.
Push a new filter seal fully into its bore, then install the new filter.
Make sure the gasket surface on the transaxle pan is clean, then install the new gasket. Put the pan in place against the transaxle and install the bolts. Working around the pan, tighten each bolt a little at a time until the final torque figure is reached. Note: GM recommends using new bolts, and coating the threads with a thin film of RTV sealant.
Lower the vehicle and add the specified amount of automatic transmission fluid through the vent/fill cap and check the fluid level.
Check under the vehicle for leaks during the first few trips.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid: Dexron III automatic Transaxle fluid
Automatic transaxle
fluid and filter change: 7 qts
Dry, including torque converter: 13qts
Pan bolts and fluid level check plug torque: 108in-lbs
mtdxx
03-24-2004, 08:34 PM
thanks for posting that. I am saving it to my favorites
quaddriver
03-24-2004, 08:36 PM
no no no! there are NO plugs in the bottom of the 4T40 anywhere near any pans.
the plug to check is on the SIDE of the transaxle near the output shaft, and must be checked vehicle hot. the reason it must be checked hot is that the 4T40 uses a thermostatically controlled cooling circuit, you want the cooler filled with oil when you check it, even more so if you have an aux cooler, that way you wont suck air when climbing hot.
the plug to check is on the SIDE of the transaxle near the output shaft, and must be checked vehicle hot. the reason it must be checked hot is that the 4T40 uses a thermostatically controlled cooling circuit, you want the cooler filled with oil when you check it, even more so if you have an aux cooler, that way you wont suck air when climbing hot.
burly
03-24-2004, 08:54 PM
I never said it was on the bottom. I said "The check plug is located near the pan, adjacent to the engine oil drain plug."
As far as "close to the pan" goes, its about 3 thumb widths above the pan.
Also, yes you do want to check it Warm but not hot. Which is why I stated 3 to 5 minutes of idle time and moving it through the gears.
The info above was taken directly from the Hayes manual for the vehicle, so it should be fairly accurate.
As far as "close to the pan" goes, its about 3 thumb widths above the pan.
Also, yes you do want to check it Warm but not hot. Which is why I stated 3 to 5 minutes of idle time and moving it through the gears.
The info above was taken directly from the Hayes manual for the vehicle, so it should be fairly accurate.
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