pipe size on daytona

so i've been told by many the 2.5l daytona's have 2.5 inch diameter exhausts..but i was looking on my cs today and i didnt get an exact diameter on the normal pipe..but were it was crimped at the end it was only 2 inch...could my daytona only have a 2 and 1/4 pipe?...or am i just not measuring right and all 2.5 daytonas have a 2.5 inch diameter pipe size...?!?!?!!?

ok i just did all my measurements..and the pipe going TO the cat..is 2.5..it comes out 2 1/4...then the 2 1/4 pipe goes into my muffler and it comes out 2 inch...is it normal for my pipes to decrease in size like this or wah?..oh well i guess i found out what i was lookin for thou

ok this section of the forum is mostly dead..but im posting here cause im havin probs with my turbododge acct..and cant post..so anyways..i just want to finnaly clear up something about exhaust. if i get a full 3 inch system..(i got a 2.5l) apparently im gonna get the boost cutout sometimes..right?..and eliminating this would be to get a new calibration..so say i order a stage 1 or stage 2 cal. from fwdperformance, the boost cutout would be solved? im just wanting to know what to do to my car before i do it and i wanna learn everything i can about it before i do something. my plans are still getting a full 3 exhaust, intercooler(what kind?..price range 200-300 cdn...what can it get me new..used?) and a calibration..(lvl 1..or lvl 2?)..so if someone could please confirm these questions or can tell me i got the right idea, please do so..i would much appreciate it..tytytyty sirs....goodnight

oh yes and 1 final thing..forgot to add..with a 3 inch system..and a dynomax ultra flow..how is it going to sound..(louder the better for me)..i might take off cat as well..but still unsure on that..so is it gonna give me a little 4 banger grumble or what..thx:O

there is a fellow here running a 3" system, no muffler at all. This is on his 87 daytona, with a 2.5 turbo. He has done injector work, computer mods, and a host of other things, to make a turbo engine fit in this particular car.
The only thing we noticed with the wide open exhaust like that, which exits immediately behind the driver's door, is that you can really hear the turbo spool up. other than that, it is still pretty quiet.

The only problem you may run into with the 3" pipe is going over the rear beam axle. It will NOT cause cut out by itself. Back pressure is the enemy with turbo engines so the least restrictions the better off you'll be. Larger pipe only helps to spool the turbo faster initially by letting gasses out faster.

1. Yes, all the stock exhausts were like that. The stock exhausts on Turbo Dodges and Chryslers were pretty restrictive.

2. If you're going to get a full 3" exhaust just buy it from FWD Performance as well. They are mandrel bent and you can get your downpipe ceramic coated and get a ceramic coated and ported exhaust manifold. These will help those exhaust gasses get out as fast as possible. This will translate into less spool time. It will also give you more power. I am not sure about the boost cutout, I installed one on my Turbo II without any problems, but it could be different for the Turbo I. As for an intercooler, if you plan to stick with stock boost levels use a stock Turbo II or IV intercooler. They are good for around 14PSI and you can find them for about $60 bucks.

3. It will be louder, but your turbo acts as a muffler, so it won't sound bad. It will simply be a little louder unless you remove the cat and the muffler.

On a side note, there are some forums specific to the Turbo Chryslers and Dodges. There are a lot of people over there willing to help and a wealth of knowledge. It is also a good place to find parts. Just check out the Turbo Dodge Forums. (http://www.turbododge.com)

The most common reason I have run into for cutout was the actuator sticking, which keeps the wategate flapper closed or doesn't let it open far enough to keep boost levels down. May also be a leak in the vacuum line leading to the wastegate actuator itself. Doesn't sound like you're having a problem with it yet but if you do start there. The actual horsepower gains are debateable on larger pipes, though. It's really more of a way to increase the efficiency of your current setup. Due to the fact that the turbine housing is pre- exhaust pipe, it limits the actual horsepower gains no matter what size pipe you use. You could use a down pipe only, just to the gasses out of the engine bay, and still be limited by the flow of you turbine.

sry double post><

ok..i had gotten this stuff done now during this past week..without access to welding machines or car raisers..i had gone to a muffler place who my dad has been dealing with for over 20 years(my dad is used car salesman)..so i got good deals ther..i wasnt 100% happy with the way it all went..but right now the car is sounding good and its all good..having no flanges on my cat..i had them put 2 flanges on teh cat..2 flanges on the test pipe..and 2 flanges on either side of the pipes to be able to switch back and forth for aircare reasons..i then put a magnaflow straight threw single in duel out muffler on the car and it looks really sharp. i stuck with teh original pipe size..not to my personal best liking..but its what was done and its what is now done and done!..overall..the car sounds really low tone..and burbles on decel or lower rpms on rev. it has the slightest sound of azn styles muffler tone..but it doesnt peak out and start buzzing like a bee. its really low almost at all rpms up to 5k..after 5k..i hear turbo..and muffler..makes good combo witch doesnt sound rice any longer. so yes..now that i have a K and N drop in..exhaust done(although still original pipe sizes)..im gonna be looking for an intercooler..i'd like to buy a stage 2 ecu at fwdperfm. boostin it to 14 psi..and i'd like to get a bov(do i try to find a early talon bov?)..intercooler wise..im still taking suggestions..(mainly specific cause i wouldnt no what you meant if u said this is a maybe)..but anyways..thanks for your input guys..and i should be posting here again

and polygon i do read turbododge all the time..i just had problems with registering so i started posting this information in here..i knew you would read it things would be undercontrol...(ty others as well..ahah :biggrin: :biggrin: im outy for now..cruisin the streets..PEACEZOR

http://public.fotki.com/Bowzer/ballers/ the daytona is mine..(of course)..and teh camaro is my good buddy's..

Sounds good Bowza, glad to hear it worked out. I have a stock intercooler from my 87 T2 Shelby Z I'd be willing to part with for cheap. Email me for more info. As for the BOV I've never used a 1G talon setup, but I've heard the have a problem with spring tension. And the pipe that it mounts to is very small. 1.5" I think. I use a TurboXS RFL and it holds every bit of 25+ psi. I only run about 18 or so on the street though. If you give me more of an idea of what you're working with I'd be glad to help. Or check out Relentlessracing.com. thedodgegarage.com They've done it all. Very impressive sites. Before you get into calibrations I suggest taking some time and doing your research on exactly what you want your car to be. Or you'll end up like me, 15G's into a 450 hp motor and can't hardly drive the thing anymore. Makes for VERY interesting Saturday nights though... :evillol:

what i want my car to be is still reasonable..i am still a student..only 17..so i aint gonna be ballin no 15G's into a car..aha the most im gonna put into it is probably maximum 2g..more along the lines of 1g thou.. im desiring anywere above 200hp..but not looking for anything above 250..iono what these next steps can get me..but those and supporting mods are probably the only things i will spend money on..and being student..still new to fabrication with cars..do i not need a new radiator with the stock intercooler?..if i could get some more info on what i would need..pipes..iono anything associated with your/a intercooler that'd be great..peace

The easiest things I can think of without a complete teardown are:
-Intercooler (stock T2 is plenty, there is such a thing as "too big")
-+20 injectors or stock T2 injectors will work fine too
-Adjustable FPR (rising rate also preferred but for 200-250hp not required)
-Camshaft go for something with a higher centerline (112maybe) but not a lot of overlap, if overlap is too great you'll lose boost out the exhaust valve because I/E are open at the same time for too long. I run a Taft S3 cam and idle- 3000 is useless in boost. I may even change back to stock for drivability.
-Computer- BE CAREFUL contact FWD or whoever before buying, make sure your different components work well together. Or at very least read the descriptions closely. Some you have to use a GM MAP sensor, which is almost plug and play but the cost is very high.
If you give me more specifics on your motor/trans, year etc. It'll help as there were many changes throughout the years. My email is [email protected] so we don't tie up this thread.

[QUOTE=Polygon]1. Yes, all the stock exhausts were like that. The stock exhausts on Turbo Dodges and Chryslers were pretty restrictive.

2. If you're going to get a full 3" exhaust just buy it from FWD Performance as well. They are mandrel bent and you can get your downpipe ceramic coated and get a ceramic coated and ported exhaust manifold. These will help those exhaust gasses get out as fast as possible. This will translate into less spool time. It will also give you more power. I am not sure about the boost cutout, I installed one on my Turbo II without any problems, but it could be different for the Turbo I. As for an intercooler, if you plan to stick with stock boost levels use a stock Turbo II or IV intercooler. They are good for around 14PSI and you can find them for about $60 bucks.

3. It will be louder, but your turbo acts as a muffler, so it won't sound bad. It will simply be a little louder unless you remove the cat and the muffler.

On thepeoplwiD i have 87 daytona, get get any spark,lots of gas ,any ideas?