really need some buying advice

I'm looking to buy a vr-4, since my first car (a '91 corolla) died a few weeks ago. I found a vr-4 on autotrader that's just 11 miles from my house, and now I'm seeking some opinions on the car, what I should ask the guy when I go see it on Teusday, and ultimately, if it's worth buying. If I buy it, I will be driving this car through the end of the summer and then once I start college in the fall it will spend most of its time in a garage (except during summers again, which get pretty hot in austin). It needs to last me all 4 years, hopefully with few maintenance costs. Instead of trying to describe it myself I'll just give the links:
the car:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=154228774&dealer_id=&car_year=1992&search_type=used&make=MIT&model=3000GT&transmission=MAN&distance=25&address=78746&advanced=y&certified=n&max_mileage=&max_price=&min_price=&end_year=2005&start_year=1984&drive=AWD&engine=&body_style=&advcd_on=y&doors=&fuel=&color=&cardist=11

more pictures: http://www.ephainc.com/friedrich/vr4/

What bothers me most is the 127k miles, even though it's rebuilt. Should I be worried about reliability on a car like that? Also, is 13psi OK, b/c I've seen places that say don't exceed twelve? I'm not a fan of chrome wheels, does anyone know of lighter (hopefully not too expensive) replacements?(stock maybe?) Also, the exhaust looks a little ricer with those tips. Do you find it sketchy that he "forgot" the brand of springs and exhaust? Should I ask about the active aero(if it works)? I'll probably try to talk him down around $7k or less, is that reasonable? Sorry to ask so many questions, but I really want some other opinions on this car, and what I should ask the guy about it when I go see it. Thanks.

also, what is this 2-bolt vs. 4-bolt stuff? what does that mean?

Well first off, here is what jumps out at me, he lists mods and engine work at 4000 dollars and states that like it should add to the value...IT doesn't, mods never add to value. Also, being a 92, it's possible it only has a 2 bolt main rather then a 4 bolt. I'd run the VIN. I'd also ask him if he got his transfer case recall done. The Electronic suspension light is on because he has aftermarket lowering springs...this is normal. What isn't is the SRS light. That means the airbag has been deployed...I'd find out why. Definantly ask him and check the VIN out on carfax.com. He has a turbo timer, which is good and prolongs the life of the turbos, so that is a good sign. I'd check for receipts on oil changes and signs of regular maintanence. Because that is key with higher mileage cars. Take it out for a spin and make sure the gears aren't grinding, the synchros can go bad on these cars. As far as the 13psi, thats actually safe. Stock setting is 10psi for 91-93 vr4s and 12 for 94+. With a boost gauge AND properly monitored AFTERMARKET boost gauge(stock is inaccurate, so if he is running that much boost make sure it is being monitored with an aftermarket gauge), 14.5 is the maximum safe level to boost at. After that fuel upgrades are needed as well as AFC and y-pipe. Ok, i just checked out the other pics and saw the boost gauge, so that is good. All in all it looks good. Wheels can definantly be changed, there are rims available as light as 14 or 15lbs if weight is a concern(although they will cost you) you can do a search here or at 3si.org under the wheels section and find tons of info about them. He may have "forgotten" because he went cheap, not name brand. Isn't necessarily a bad thing...just remember and remind him...mods don't add any value to your car...even if you dump 20 grand into modding out your car, the value isn't going up. Also check to make sure active aero works, both front and back, that can have problems but they are solvable.
Overall, it looks in good shape and has a few nice modifications on it, so thats cool and will save you money in the future. I would take it out and just make sure every little thing works, cruise around check for noises. Ask him if he's had any problems in the past. And have a mechanic or somebody look it over for the basics. I would think 7k about what it's worth. kbb.com would put it about 7k, depending on your area, so I don't know where he is getting 8500 from, unless he is listing it in excellent condition. Um, that's all I can think of right now, but if you have any specific questions once you check out the car...post em. Good luck you'll love the car.

2bolt vs. 4 bolt mains, I took this from www.stealth316.com (a very informative site):

"The DOHC 6G72 is an extremely strong engine, with an alloy steel block and aluminum alloy heads, and is capable of delivering well over 500 HP with turbocharging. As good as the first versions of the engine were, Mitsubishi decided to make the engine even stronger in 1993 models (starting with June 1992 production-date cars) giving it a 4-bolt main bearing cap girdle (the original used 2-bolt caps with stiffening stays on the middle 4 bolts) and a nitrided-steel crankshaft (the original was cast iron or mild steel). Mitsubishi made other changes, most significant of which was moving the crank and cam angle sensors from the left head (where it was user-adjustable for timing) and into the block (not adjustable). Major lower-engine parts that remained the same include the piston and pin assembly [MD307972 is listed as the standard-size replacement for all years] and the forged-steel connecting rod assembly [MD131329 is the only part number listed for all years]."

If you are really commited, you can do a conversion, from the 2 to 4. Hope this helps.

127k miles is a lot, is it unrealistic to expect another 40k relatively problem free miles out of a car like that? Is it normal for these cars to get engine rebuilds at around 125k, or should I take that as a sign that the car has led a hard life? Basically, how reliable can I expect this car to be?

I wish I could give you a more definitive answer, but it really depends on how the car was treated. I've heard of some guys on this board having original engines and turbos over 200k. On the other hand, some treat their cars like sh!t and destroy them faster then I thought was humanly possible. So it really depends on the owners treatment. However just to give you some ideas. You can get a new engine for around 3 grand for a vr4. As well, the most common tranny problem is the synchros going. There are multiple posts on this forum about that and how to replace them. But they can be found for a few hundred and you don't need a whole new tranny for 3 grand most of the time. So weigh your options. you said the engine was already rebuilt, so maybe it will last quite a bit longer. My best advice is to test it out and see for yourself. Also, don't jump on the first one out there. Many of us had to wait quite a while to find our cars. Patience will help you get a good one.

it looks to me like the kid took real pride in his car but it seems too good to be true. i payed 9k for my 96 sl and it had 60k.?

At 127K miles I'd say the valve guides are well worn. These cars have a nasty reputation of buring oil because of valve guides blowing oil into the cylinders. I had mine rebuilt and it cost about 800 bucks.

To check if the guides are worn have a buddy drive behind you when you test drive the car. You will see blue smoke come out of the tail pipe when the engine is under load (you are accelerating). Mine never smoked when I simply reved the engine. BTW you will fail emissions if you have this valve guide issue. Also, pre 97 cars have poorly lubed lifters due to small oil passages. The 97+ part is a simple drop in and costs about 200 bucks in parts. I made the mistake of not doing this upgrade when I have the valve job done. Poor lube means that lifter tick. It won't destroy your engine but it will be annoying and bothersome so have it done when and if you have your valves done.

The T belt must be changed religiously on these cars. The engine is interference so if it breaks your piston crushes the vavles and your heads have to be yanked and rebuilt. This is very expensive.

If you are looking for a cheap to maintain and own car then the 3000GT is not for you. I bought mine in october of 2002 and I have spent about $5000 restoring it and just caring for it. BTW, my car was lady owned since new and bone stock.

Just some of what I have done:
valve job $800
Major T belt tune up water pump service $900
Dunlop 5000 tires $525 (for a 16 inch wheel....VR4 17 and 18 inchers cost more)
new clutch $600
ECS system diagnosis and replace 1 strut and 2 caps $525
Stock Infinity stereo AMP repair $150

and a bunch of MISC stuff I can't recall at the moment.

Keep in mind that none of this stuff was done for show or extravagance. It is all stuff to keep her running right.

My plan is to hit 250K - 300K miles on the engine and then rebuild it with premium internals. Being a texas car she has zero rust and boddy issues. My leather is in good shape but I will go to a better leather at some point.

In the more immediate future I plan to go to the 18 inch VR4 chrome wheels.

If you want a cheaper to own sort of rare and exotic yet afforadable fun car I would suggest any 91-95 Toyota MR2. My MR2 costs under 1/4 to maintain of what the 3KGT costs.

Nightrider, it is high mileage and has a rebuilt engine, I checked on kelly blue book and it put it around 7k, so I think thats about right.

Nomarin...just one other thing, ask him why he's selling it, that might provide you with some insight...if he's honest
also Ash is completely right, this car is expensive to maintain. Insurance, gas, and parts are not cheap. So be aware of that. I pay 3 grand a year for insurance and that's with over 1k in random deductions. Also it needs at least 91 octance gas, which up here is over 2 bucks a gallon. And as ash pointed out, parts are not cheap. Also, he's completely right about having a friend check for blue smoke out of the tailpipe under load bearing pressure. Blue smoke means burning oil.

i asked this on the forums already why my oil preasure goes up to h and why i constantly have to put more oil in. is it the valve guides you were talking about because when im on the gas it goes almost up to H. if your right about the valves ash 94sl im SCREWED!!!

Your oil pressure gauge will go up when you hit the gas simply because you are reving the engine at a higher speed so the oil pump is flowing oil faster therefore more oil pressure.

I don't drive my car hard ever. Ricers in cheap civics are more than welcome to "prove" something at each light by tearing up their cars.

Anyway, a higher oil pressure when you are reving higher is normal. Oil consumption is also normal. Every car no matter how new does burn some oil. But, if you have to add more than about 1/2 a quart between oil changes you need engine work.

Castrol syntec is great oil and it does bond to engine parts. I had another car a while back which had an oil burn issue that went undetected for a long time. I drove it cross country about 2500 miles. When I did the oil change I recovered only 2 of 4.5 quarts it had when I did the oil change. The oil was awesome. I suffered no adverse effects and I kept the car 3 more years without any trouble. Of course, that was a Toyota. Mitsus are notoriuos for oil buring and that is kinda sad.

If you see blue smoke under load you need to budget 800 bucks for a valve job. Trust me when I say it is totally worth it. Since I had it done I recover all of the oil that was put in. I'm never low even if I go 4500 miles on oil.

Piston rings on these cars are pretty strong from the factory. I'd say have a compression test done just incase. Mine did fine on compression even though my valve guides were toast.

Once you have the work done religiously change the oil in the car every 3000-3500 miles. Don't waste money on mods like lights and lenses. Budget funds into OEM fitlers and synthetic oils. Your car will last longer and run better. Never use oil additives.

I would suggest Castrol Syntec 5w30 in the winters and 10w40 in the summers. Of course I live where it doesn't snow so keep that in mind. Proper oil weight also has a lot to do with how fast engine parts wear.

In general, would you say it's safer to go with a car that has 127k miles with the engine rebuilt at 125k, or a car with 110k with no engine rebuild? Also the one with more miles has aftermarket upgrades like BOV and boost controller, etc. Should that be a warning that it's been driven harder than the stock car with less miles? This is a seperate issue, but the higher mileage car's 3rd gear synchro is going out, roughly how much would it cost to get that fixed. Plus, i'm not a fan of the aftermarket exhaust he has on there, the mufflers and tips are HUGE and very close to the ground and they just have that loud ricer sound to them. How much would it cost to get that replaced with something a little less obnoxious? Am I looking at a whole new catback system, or what? Also, it was missing the foglights and the lowbeams didn't work. It drove fine except for having to shift very slowly into third, and it was VERY fast. What do you think, is it worth driving 173 miles to look at the slightly lower mileage car?

Well personally, I would think the higher mileage car with a rebuilt engine would be in better shape(generally). The extra 15k wouldn't make that much of a difference and at least the engine is new. The upgraded parts could show that he drives hard, but also that he takes car of it in upgrading. You really just need to check it out fully. as far as the 3rd gear synchro, you can get that for a few hundred, but if you are getting someone else to repair it, it will probably go over a grand to replace. The exhaust...you'll need a new catback. but the good news is that alot of people sell their vr4 catbacks when they upgrade to aftermarket exhaust. So, you could probably get that pretty cheap 75-200 on www.3si.org. Once again, depends on if you do the work or not, but if you sell the exhaust that is on there, I am sure that would help. Muffler companies might charge a hundred or so to mount/dismount exhaust. To me it seems from the pics and parts he has that he was pretty safe with modifying and that he took pretty good care of it. For example...his boost is set at 13, not 14.5(so he's not squeezing out every possible psi possible) But then again, you can't judge how well he drove the car. I really don't know...if you want to check out that other car, then it might be a good idea, just to compare the two, even if you don't buy the one that is 180miles away. I drove about 195miles to look at the vr4 that is now sitting in my driveway, so it might be worth it. All in all, just check the car(s) out thoroughly, find out why they are selling them, and use your good judgement. When I got my vr4, I even had the seller sign a letter saying that the car was in good condition and didn't have any serious problems to his knowledge....that type of thing. Just as an extra percaution.
All in all, there are 3000gts on this forum that have well over 200k with rebuilt engines, tranny. So the car can last, if you take care of it.