91 Mustang LX build up

Hello Everyone, I am new to the board and wanted to introduce myself.

My name is Todd and I am the proud owner of a 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 with 108,000 miles on the odometer This is my first Mustang and I am sure it will not be my last.

Ok now to the reason for this post. I am getting ready to add a whole bunch of bolt on parts to my relatively stock Mustang and would like to know what the board thinks about what I am doing. I will also keep the board informed as to the progress of my car.

First my Mustang runs 13.92 in the 1/4 mile presently. The work I have done so far is 65mm Throttle Body, 76mm Mass air, Underdrive pullies, Hypertech chip, 255 LPH Fuel Pump with a holley Fuel Pressure regulater, Bumped the timing to 16 degrees, Mac Shorty Headers, H pipe and Cat back mufflers,Built AOD Transmission with a Boss Hog 2600 Stall convertor, 3:73 gears, 16" Pony wheels with Cooper Cobra 245 55 ZR 16 Tires, and weld in sub frame connectors.

This is what I am planning on bolting on in the next week... I already have all the parts and will be starting this next weekend.

-Brand New GT40P Heads with 1.90 intake and 1.60 exhaust with a .550 spring kit.
-Mac Unequal Length Shorty headers for the GT40P Heads.
-Professional Products Typhoon Intake Manifold 1500-6500 RPM
-All Fel-Pro Gaskets
-Crane Double Roller Timing Chain
-TFS Stage 1 Camshaft Duration
* Advertised duration: 275 intake/279 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. lift: 221 intake/225 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .499 in. intake/.510 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 112 degrees
* RPM range: 2,000 to 5,500
-Proform 1.6 Ratio Pedastal Roller Rockers
-Crane Chrome Molly Pushrods
-24LB FRPP Fuel Injectors
-160 degree Thermostat
-Nitous Works Kit for Ford EFI 25-100 shot

So what does the board think about this setup... Also how much horsepower do you think I will be bolting on with the Nitrous and without and how much faster will my 1/4 mile times be with the Nitrous and without it. I am hoping for 300 HP with out Nos and about 375 hp with the Nos and atleast a full second drop in my 1/4 mile time.

Seems like you got a nice setup going. Just ditch the 160 thermostat. You'll get more power/reliability out of a stock 192-195.

damn homey! u got a pimp ride! thats a really good year and model! i got me the same fukin thing! a 91 musty five o LX convertible. it deep jewel green, black top, ram air hood by cervinis and cobra conversion kit all on it. i want to know how much power im driving and since u have the same car and all i want to know if u know: ive recently bolted on bbk's shorty headers, bassani x-pipe with aft. cats, the whole cat back system w/ flowmasters, and like i said before i have cervinis ram air hood and kit. can u tell me how much im running?

Everything sounds good to me, except for a few things with that I think would benefit you by going with something else.

#1, I would reconsider the GT40P heads, I would think of either AFR, Edelbrock instead.
#2, stay away from the 160* stat. I would suggest keeping a stock rated 192* stat for best performance.
#3, I don't know too much about the Typhoon intake, but I think the new Edelbrock Performer II is a hot piece.

The typhoon is basically a copy of the Edelbrock Performer so I'd assume it's a good intake.

Everything sounds good to me, except for a few things with that I think would benefit you by going with something else.

#1, I would reconsider the GT40P heads, I would think of either AFR, Edelbrock instead.
#2, stay away from the 160* stat. I would suggest keeping a stock rated 192* stat for best performance.
#3, I don't know too much about the Typhoon intake, but I think the new Edelbrock Performer II is a hot piece.

Yes I thought about both the AFR and the Edelbrock Heads, I decided on the GT40ps because of cost. I picked up these heads brand new with a port and polish job and stainless steel Intake 1.90 and Exhaust 1.60 valves along with the .550 lift spring kit... Also I will be able to stay with my Pedastal Mount Roller Rockers. I picked up these heads for $694.00 shipped from Race Parts Direct.

Why do you say use the higher Temp Thermostat? I was told to go with the 160 to keep the engine running cooler.

damn homey! u got a pimp ride! thats a really good year and model! i got me the same fukin thing! a 91 musty five o LX convertible. it deep jewel green, black top, ram air hood by cervinis and cobra conversion kit all on it. i want to know how much power im driving and since u have the same car and all i want to know if u know: ive recently bolted on bbk's shorty headers, bassani x-pipe with aft. cats, the whole cat back system w/ flowmasters, and like i said before i have cervinis ram air hood and kit. can u tell me how much im running?

I have never DYNOed the car but I estimate I am running about 238 HP. My car weighs in at 3244, I weighed it at a truck weight station.

Using the calculator at Stangnet.com gives me this HP figure.

Here is the link...
http://www.stangnet.com/calcs/index.html

Running a 160* stat to keep the car running cooler couldn't be more false. You will more then likely be running hotter if anything with 160* stat.

Your radiator is designed to displace the heat in the coolant from the engine. Its a constant cycling process, so when the engine temp reaches 160* the stat will open and the coolant will flow from the radiator though the motor cooling it down. The stat then shuts and the hot coolant "hangs out" in the radiator till cools and is needed to repeat the cycle again.

So look at it this way, running a colder stat, a 160 vs. a 192. The cycle I just mention will happen more frequently with a colder stat, not allowing the coolants temperature to drop enough to be an advantage of cooling the engine. Running a 192* stat will give the coolant more time to "hang out" in the radiator, giving it more time to dissipate the heat it has been subject to from the motor. These examples are more common in warm temps of spring summer and warmer climates.

Now in the case of say winter and colder climates, a 160* stat can actually make the car run too cold and cause the ECU to not function properly. So to sum it all up, stick with the factory based temperature stat, the car was designed to run with it and will perform at its best with it.

15.425666727933951 @ 88.64257967810505mph for my thunderbird in my sig

ok thanks bro! by the way do u think i can smoke a 2000 GT with a set of aft pulleys and a k&n and set of magnaflo muffS? i sorta get punked by the guy and wanna get him on the streets to shut him up...but i get second thoughts, do u think i can? if not do u suggest anything?

he has thos mods not me, i hav all the mods that i posted on my other reply to u...the first one!

Running a 160* stat to keep the car running cooler couldn't be more false. You will more then likely be running hotter if anything with 160* stat.

Your radiator is designed to displace the heat in the coolant from the engine. Its a constant cycling process, so when the engine temp reaches 160* the stat will open and the coolant will flow from the radiator though the motor cooling it down. The stat then shuts and the hot coolant "hangs out" in the radiator till cools and is needed to repeat the cycle again.

So look at it this way, running a colder stat, a 160 vs. a 192. The cycle I just mention will happen more frequently with a colder stat, not allowing the coolants temperature to drop enough to be an advantage of cooling the engine. Running a 192* stat will give the coolant more time to "hang out" in the radiator, giving it more time to dissipate the heat it has been subject to from the motor. These examples are more common in warm temps of spring summer and warmer climates.

Now in the case of say winter and colder climates, a 160* stat can actually make the car run too cold and cause the ECU to not function properly. So to sum it all up, stick with the factory based temperature stat, the car was designed to run with it and will perform at its best with it.

Well I took your advice and went with a stock Thermostat 194 degrees. I also had the shop port match my heads and intakes. The car will be back together later this morning then it will head over to the Dyno to be tuned. I also went with a Diablo custom burned chip as well.

ok thanks bro! by the way do u think i can smoke a 2000 GT with a set of aft pulleys and a k&n and set of magnaflo muffS? i sorta get punked by the guy and wanna get him on the streets to shut him up...but i get second thoughts, do u think i can? if not do u suggest anything?

I know a few other guys that have fox bodies with basically the same mods you have on your car and they have won races over the sn95 mustangs. In fact that is what made me get a late model fox body in the first place. You can make them real fast with very little money and still have a very comfortable ride.

There is a friend of mine running a 1989 Mustang LX with a 155,000 mile motor with Mac Shorty Headers, Mac Pro Chamber and Cat Back exhaust, 65mm throttle body, 76mm Mass air, 24lb injectors, 255 LPH pump, MSD 6AL ignition, Stock heads, Stock Cam, and an Explorer intake, with a 5 speed and 3.73 gears running in the mid to upper 13 second range.

You might want to ask the rest of the board what your car will run with the mods you have listed as I am sure their are more knowledgeable people on this forum than I.. If I would make a guess I would say you should be running in the high 13 second low 14 second range...

okay i will and thanx for being supportive and helping, and i hope ur project goes well! it sound really good to me! those 91 fiftys are fun

Ok, I admit im not the best when it comes to building a FI engine, but some things are still the same as they are in a carb'd motor. 1st of all i have never been a fan of GT40's. 2nd I havent heard to much about the typhoon intakes. 3rd you need a new cam. Listen to HiFlow, DO NOT run the old weak stuff just because its cheaper. Your spending all that time and money to build this car, why settle for second place? If you have your heart set of GT40's and that Typhoon thing then you need to buy a cam with a matching Rpm range as your heads and intake (most importantly the intake). If you stay with the cam you picked out then get ready to have some hesitation. Also your stall is too high for that aplication. Just stay away from the alphabet cams. With the cam you have your lift is about right, your duration is desent, and the lobe sep is ok. The power band sucks though. Try for a little more duration. Good luck. I hope you take some advice or i really dont think you will be very happy with your results.

I finally finished my car and had it dynoed and took it to the track Saturday and ran it... To say I am impressed is an understatement... Here is what was done.

91 Stock 108,000 mile 5.0 motor with forged pistons
GT40P Heads Ported and Polished with 1.90 x 1.60 Valves and a .550 lift Spring Kit
1.6 Proform Roller Rockers
Professional Products Typhoon Intake Manifold
Mac Cold Air Induction
TFS Stage 1 Camshaft
65mm TB
76mm MAS
24lb Injectors
Mac Shorty Headers, Mac Prochamber and Mac Cat back Exhaust
MSD 6AL Ignition with MSD Billet Distributer
MSD 9mm Racing Spark Plug Wires
Iridium Plugs
Mac Underdrive Pullies
Art Carr Street Terminator Transmission with a 2600 Stall convertor
FRPP 3:73 rear gears with 31 spline axles, an Eaton 8.8 Differential
Custom Burned Diablo computer chip
255LPH Fuel Pump
Adj Fuel regulater
Set the timing to 16 degrees advance and the fuel to 37 PSI
Eibach Drag 90/10 shocks, FRPP Progressive rate springs
Eibach upper and lower control arms
Sub Frame connectors
QA1 Tubular K Member
Fiberglass hood with 1.5in cowl
Race Weight with driver is 3120
Price to build about 10K incl price of car

First this car dynoed at 323HP at the Rear Wheels and ran a best in the quarter of 12.093 @113.23 MPH

THe GT40P heads are awsome... I really think these are some of the most underated heads for the 5.0...

I want to thank everyone for their input as well...

The next thing I think I will do is add a Zex 125 system to put me in the 11 second time zone.. What does the board think about useing NOS with this setup.