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how to get Check engine codes?


Iphire
03-20-2004, 11:21 PM
I was wondering if there was a way to get the codes without using equipment on a 95 escort? on my friends neon all he has to do is turn the key 5times, just wondering if theres a trick like that on the escort?

arcade84_2003
03-21-2004, 12:31 AM
to the best of my knowledgs...that's only in dodge vehicles..my aunt's daytona, grandpa's aries, and my buddy's neon. My dad says it's only inj chrysler products. i have a 94 escort, so if u find me wrong let me know

mightymoose_22
03-21-2004, 01:00 AM
Yes there is... all you need is a piece of wire to jumper the EEC. Search Yahoo for "EEC IV jumper" and you will be led to lseveral sites that will outline the testing procedure. A code reader from Auto Zone will do a lot more, but you don't NEED one.

sector95
03-22-2004, 11:54 PM
The jumper is an inexpensive way to do it but unless you have a book of codes it won't do you much good. The Actron code reader for '95 and earlier (non-OBDII) Fords runs about 25-30 bucks at AutoZone and it comes with a very complete manual of codes. Check the Actron website to see if they have any specials or search the net.

Iphire
03-23-2004, 01:50 PM
Well, i called autozone and they told me they dont check the codes for free anymore, so i just took it to a local repair shop and they scanned it and turns out somethings wrong with my EGR valve sensor. so by next week it wil be running great again.

sector95
03-23-2004, 04:27 PM
Well that's a bummer....sounds like a local policy for that store. The one I use still does it for free. How much are they charging you to replace the EGR valve....parts and labor?

Iphire
03-27-2004, 10:01 PM
Since they dont know if its just backed up from built-up residue or the valve is actually broken, they are going to check it out. but they said somewhere around 200-250. with parts and labor. and just the other day the gear got stuck in park and now i cant get it out, i tried the whole turning teh key bit, but no luck.

sector95
03-28-2004, 08:32 PM
Replacing the EGR valve is fairly straightforward. I just replaced the one on my car (a a preventative measure and because it had 71K on it). I bought the replacement EGR valve from AutoZone for $43. The hardest part in removing the the valve is removing the pipe that runs from the exhuast manifold to the EGR valve because of close confines. The valve itself is held to the intake with two bolts. If you're at all mechancally inclined, it really is a snap and can save you a coupla hundred bucks. If you do decide to tackle it, a good idea is to clean the throttle body, and intake track to include the EGR port. The throttle body is held to the manifold with 4 bolts and you'll have to get a gasket. Get yourself a Haynes manual and see how easy this job is.....it's your money......

Iphire
03-29-2004, 04:35 PM
Ill Tinker around with it over the week since i have plenty of time on my hands(spring break woohoo!) if i figure it out ill be saving some serious $$$. thx for the info.

Jet-Lee
04-09-2004, 04:38 PM
do u guys understand how UN-important the EGR valve is to the well being of the vehicle??? The only reason it is there is so the factory can say they're complying with emissions laws and crap. Mines been screwed up for years. The labor isn't worth the money, in my opinion...

mightymoose_22
04-09-2004, 08:28 PM
Perhapd it is not all that important to keep the engine running, but some of us, at least those of us in CA, have some pretty strict smog tests that we need to pass and a bad EGR can prevent that. Mine too is screwed, but fortunately I don't have to get smogged again til next year =o)

sector95
04-11-2004, 05:59 PM
Not so "Un-Important" if your state/county/city requires an annual emissions check.....pretty much guarranty the vehicle will fail with it inop or rendered inop (unless your jurisdiction has some really lame emissions standards). Without the valve operating, your combustion temps will increase....which in turn will increase the likelihood of your engine detonating (as in "pinging").....which in turn will cause you to shell out more cash for higher octane gas (to stop the pinging) or experience the long term destructive effects of preignition on your engine....forty bucks for an EGER vavle.....you weigh the cost. Of course if your motor is already a maintenance deferred basket case....well.... might as well do it up right and forget the EGR :-)

Jet-Lee
04-12-2004, 09:24 AM
I lived in Cali for 18 years. My Bronco had a bad EGR valve the week after we got it in '94. Never failed a smog check. I've been told an oki way to fix ur EGR valve, but never did it myself, cause I had no need, but here goes...Take it off, however thats done, and blow air through it using a compressor. The most common problem is simply a buildup of carbon. Clean off the carbon and u've saved urself $40.

mightymoose_22
04-12-2004, 01:13 PM
In some cases that will work. There is a diaphragm inside there and you have to be careful not to tear it. You can free things up with a penetrating fluid that is safe on rubber parts too.

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