Life is not all about going straight (1/4 mile).
CivicSiRacer
01-07-2002, 09:46 AM
Just wanted to open your horizons about other aspects of motorsports. I was introduced to autocross back in 1997 when I was on my way to a car show. Stopped by and decided to give it a try. It was held by the local Corvette Club and I whooped some butt that day.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/altd2.gif
Well I started getting more and more addicted on finding places do "dance around the cones".
So started my quest.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Autocross is generally a timed event where you race against the clock; also known as Solo II in the SCCA. Your object is to manuever through the course as fast as possible without hitting any cones. Hitting cones will usually result in time penalties added to your final time. You do not race against other cars on the course like you see on TV (door-to-door), which makes this sport pretty safe.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Nothing is needed to get started in Solo II except a good working car and a valid driver's license. Helmets are required, but are usually supplied by the sanctioning body hosting the event. If you do plan on buying your own helmet you have to make sure it is Snell certified. This certification is stamped on the inside of the helmet underneath the lining. Helmets that are legal for the 2000 season are M90 and SA90 helmets (which will expire at the end of this year), so it is better to buy a M95 or SA95 helmet - which are good until 2005. What are the differences between M & SA helmets? M helmets are 'motorcycle' helmets and are not lined with a fire resistant material and are not repetitive impact resistant (like hitting your head on the roll cage inside your car). SA helmets do come with a fire resistant lining and are multiple impact resistant. M helmets are only legal for autocross, whereas SA helmets are good for autocross and road racing events - just incase you would like to try this someday I would suggest an SA helmet. You also have a choice of open or closed face helmets. I prefer closed (with a visor) since I wear contacts and wearing sunglass on a hot day is just a pain with the sunglasses sliding off your face. Also most road courses require you to have a closed face helmet incase an object enters your car at a high rate of speed.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
To get started in autocrossing is very cheap (well except for buying a car). There are no modifications needed to start. Alot of people get the misconception that in order to win I have to have the best mods. This is totally and seriously untrue. There are many different levels in Solo II: Stock, Street Prepared, Prepared, Modified, Street Touring, and Street Mod. Putting mods on your car bumps you up the chain into more difficult and more competitive classes. Starting out in Stock is basically where most people start. You can do some mods: K&N drop in filter, cat-back exhaust, spark plugs, spark plug wires, brake pads, remove the front sway bar, and DOT racing tires. So before you write out that check for $5000 realize the more mods you do the harder the class is. Especially Street Prepared where the competitors spend unlimited amounts of money just to gain that 2/10s on the course. Where $2000 per shock is normally cheap, and $1000 9lb 14" wheel is considered heavy. Visit RULES for more rules.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Try to find an event in your area - I used http://www.scca.org to find a place, but if you live in the northeast you can go here - http://www.autox4u.com. Now the night before the event you want to follow the check sheet below so you will be prepared for the next day's events:
Air Pressure Gauge
Money
Driver's License
Water (to drink)
Food (some clubs do not have time to go out and eat)
Make sure your lugs are torqued down to specs
Make sure battery is secure
Chair
Sunscreen or hat
Extra stuff I bring:
Pop up tent (especially nice during the hot summer weather and summer showers)
Tools
Pad of paper to write what settings I had and temperature of the day
Air tank ($10 at Kmart or Walmart)
or
Portable air pump - plug into your cigarette lighter (slower but smaller)
Small jack ($20 from Kmart or Walmart)
Make sure you get there a bit early on your first time out. Registration usually opens at 8am and with some clubs they close registration at 10am. If you miss it you're out of luck. When you get there find a nice space to park, and head on over to the registration table. Let them know you are a "newbie" (novice) and they will most-likely set you up with someone who's in charge of helping you out. You will pay your entrance fees, show your license, and get your car number. There are usually anywhere between 2-5 heats. Each heat is a different group of people throughout the day and goes in the order of: Heat 1, Heat 2, Heat 3, etc. If you are a "newbie" I would suggest running in Heat 3, and working in Heat 1 (which by the way you have to work to race - sort of a common courtesy). Doing this will let you be out on the course to watch how the cars take the lines through the course. Then for Heat 2 you will be able to watch from the sidelines and get some more input. And then you will race in Heat 3.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
You will also need to be Tech'ed (inspected) to make sure your car is in good running order. You will need to clean out your car. Especially loose items like CDs, empty soda cans, etc. These things can become missiles inside your car at speed, especially on hairpin turns. Also remove your spare tire & jack, but it's not necessary. I also suggest if your car is a FWD (front wheel drive) car to pump up your air pressures to 42/38 (front/rear), cause under hard braking and turning your tires will tend to roll over (BAD!) and you might get a flat. So pump those rubbers up!!! For RWD cars you want to do the opposite 38/42 (front/rear). And then from the experiment to see what's right. Some people use 'shoe polish' or 'chalk' on their tires to see how far they are rolling over on the course. You want to make marks on the edges of your tires, make a run, then see how far you scrubbed your marks. If the marks are scrubbed too far put more more air in, if not enough then take some out.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Once you get everything removed and you think your car is ready, take it over to Tech Inspection. They will go over your car making sure the wheels are secure, the brake & gas pedal pop up, battery is secure, and overall make sure nothing will fly off your car while racing. Some clubs will also check your helmet, but if you do not have one tell them you are taking a loaner helmet. When and if you have enough time, now would be a great chance to walk the course and get a feel for what it looks like OR wait for the "newbie" meeting. Either way you will still have time to walk the course in between each of the heats. I recommend walking the course by yourself without any distractions. I have seen one too many times people talking away not paying attention to their lines, and to the other extreme people in total trances as they walk the course. For your first time out you should ask for help, which is usually available. Do not assume that you know which way to go only to find out you are heading the wrong way into the next oncoming car!
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
When they call out your heat to work make sure you show up in a timely manner. No one likes to wait for a newbie holding up the meeting. You will probably be sent with someone who knows what they are doing when you go out on the course. Basically it is your job to pick up cones (when it is safe), flag cars to stop (when a situation arises), and calling cones to the timers (incase they didn't see the cone get hit). Make sure at all times you are alert on the course. Do not sit, talk too much, and take pictures/videos when working. Anything can happen in a split second - and that split second can be the difference between getting nipped by the out of control car, or being run over. When a car goes by and clips a cone make sure it is one of the following: 1. totally out of the chalk box, 2. in the chalk box but fallen over, 3. some part of the cone touching the chalk box, but still standing. If it is one of the first two it is a penalty. If it is #3 then it's considered good and not a penalty.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
When it's your turn to race - try to stand calm and focused. They will call your heat and you will have to grid your car according to your number. I always put my helmet on when 5-6 cars ahead of me start moving. Make sure your seatbelt is pulled tight - some people always twist their seatbelts before buckling it - I personally don't find that works well for me. Some clubs have a red/yellow/green light and some just have a red/green light. You want to pull up to the line until the light turns red. The time keeper will let you out when the other car ahead of you is 1/2 way through the course. Also you do not have to go on green, the timer will start when you trip the second laser beam about 5-10 feet infront of you, so you will be able to do a quick little burn out. I usually rev my rpms up to about 3000 rpms and drop the clutch and by the time my tires catch I'm at the 2nd beam.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Now there is one thing to remember and that's "Slow To be Fast". Meaning a smoother driver (on the brakes and gas) will usually beat the Kamakazi Gung-ho driver. So take it easy on your first one or two laps. Brake before going into the turns, go into the turn, and 1/2 way through the turn start to feather the gas to get you out of the turn. I was always told never to brake in a turn, this will make your car do too many things at once and upset the balance of your car. Remember cones are usually a time penalty, with most clubs being 2 seconds added to your final time. If you get lost slow down and regain your composure. If you start to feel your car go off course and there is no saving it - just let it go. Slow down safely and stop - gain your bearings and continue on. It is better to save your car than to save your run. I have seen one too many times someone try to save their run by braking harder only to offset the balance of their car and flip!
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Some tidbits for taking lines through a course:
1. For a hairpin u-turn I was always told to take the outside line, hit the middle inside cone (not literally!), then go for the outside cones again. This will keep your speed up more so than taking the inside line the whole time.
2. For S-turns (or esses) you want to take the outside line, than most inner cone, than inner cone, then outside line. Sorry about trying to explain this in words - I'll try to get some pictures up.
3. Most course will be a 2nd gear course. If you have an automatic I would leave it in 2nd or 3rd gear. In some instances I have shifted back and forth from 1st and 2nd gear. You will have to learn your car's peak torque and hp and how to keep your car in that area.
How to set-up your car:
There are basically three different types of handling a car can do - Understeer, Oversteer, and Neutral Handling. Understeer is when you want the car to turn, but you are still skidding or going straight. For example when you are driving in the snow and you want to negotiate a turn, but instead of turning right you go straight and slide past your exit/turn.
Oversteer is the opposite - you want to turn, but the rear of your car kicks around with you facing the other direction, and in some extremes go into some nice 360s.
And of course neutral handling is when your car is a balance between the both and you can initially cause your car to understeer or oversteer by using different inputs to the car - steering wheel with brakes, steering wheel with gas, etc...
For most FWD (front wheel drive) cars your car will understeer from factory. This is actually safer than oversteer. Reason being for the general population you will want a car to be controllable by letting off the brake instead of having the back end kick around when negotiating a turn.
To set-up most Hondas (which are FWD) you want more oversteer to a point of neutral handling or a little bit of oversteer. Now depending on your class you are only allowed certain modifications, so I will start with stock classes and which are allowable to my class (STS) which anything is basically legal.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/altd2.gif
Well I started getting more and more addicted on finding places do "dance around the cones".
So started my quest.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Autocross is generally a timed event where you race against the clock; also known as Solo II in the SCCA. Your object is to manuever through the course as fast as possible without hitting any cones. Hitting cones will usually result in time penalties added to your final time. You do not race against other cars on the course like you see on TV (door-to-door), which makes this sport pretty safe.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Nothing is needed to get started in Solo II except a good working car and a valid driver's license. Helmets are required, but are usually supplied by the sanctioning body hosting the event. If you do plan on buying your own helmet you have to make sure it is Snell certified. This certification is stamped on the inside of the helmet underneath the lining. Helmets that are legal for the 2000 season are M90 and SA90 helmets (which will expire at the end of this year), so it is better to buy a M95 or SA95 helmet - which are good until 2005. What are the differences between M & SA helmets? M helmets are 'motorcycle' helmets and are not lined with a fire resistant material and are not repetitive impact resistant (like hitting your head on the roll cage inside your car). SA helmets do come with a fire resistant lining and are multiple impact resistant. M helmets are only legal for autocross, whereas SA helmets are good for autocross and road racing events - just incase you would like to try this someday I would suggest an SA helmet. You also have a choice of open or closed face helmets. I prefer closed (with a visor) since I wear contacts and wearing sunglass on a hot day is just a pain with the sunglasses sliding off your face. Also most road courses require you to have a closed face helmet incase an object enters your car at a high rate of speed.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
To get started in autocrossing is very cheap (well except for buying a car). There are no modifications needed to start. Alot of people get the misconception that in order to win I have to have the best mods. This is totally and seriously untrue. There are many different levels in Solo II: Stock, Street Prepared, Prepared, Modified, Street Touring, and Street Mod. Putting mods on your car bumps you up the chain into more difficult and more competitive classes. Starting out in Stock is basically where most people start. You can do some mods: K&N drop in filter, cat-back exhaust, spark plugs, spark plug wires, brake pads, remove the front sway bar, and DOT racing tires. So before you write out that check for $5000 realize the more mods you do the harder the class is. Especially Street Prepared where the competitors spend unlimited amounts of money just to gain that 2/10s on the course. Where $2000 per shock is normally cheap, and $1000 9lb 14" wheel is considered heavy. Visit RULES for more rules.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Try to find an event in your area - I used http://www.scca.org to find a place, but if you live in the northeast you can go here - http://www.autox4u.com. Now the night before the event you want to follow the check sheet below so you will be prepared for the next day's events:
Air Pressure Gauge
Money
Driver's License
Water (to drink)
Food (some clubs do not have time to go out and eat)
Make sure your lugs are torqued down to specs
Make sure battery is secure
Chair
Sunscreen or hat
Extra stuff I bring:
Pop up tent (especially nice during the hot summer weather and summer showers)
Tools
Pad of paper to write what settings I had and temperature of the day
Air tank ($10 at Kmart or Walmart)
or
Portable air pump - plug into your cigarette lighter (slower but smaller)
Small jack ($20 from Kmart or Walmart)
Make sure you get there a bit early on your first time out. Registration usually opens at 8am and with some clubs they close registration at 10am. If you miss it you're out of luck. When you get there find a nice space to park, and head on over to the registration table. Let them know you are a "newbie" (novice) and they will most-likely set you up with someone who's in charge of helping you out. You will pay your entrance fees, show your license, and get your car number. There are usually anywhere between 2-5 heats. Each heat is a different group of people throughout the day and goes in the order of: Heat 1, Heat 2, Heat 3, etc. If you are a "newbie" I would suggest running in Heat 3, and working in Heat 1 (which by the way you have to work to race - sort of a common courtesy). Doing this will let you be out on the course to watch how the cars take the lines through the course. Then for Heat 2 you will be able to watch from the sidelines and get some more input. And then you will race in Heat 3.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
You will also need to be Tech'ed (inspected) to make sure your car is in good running order. You will need to clean out your car. Especially loose items like CDs, empty soda cans, etc. These things can become missiles inside your car at speed, especially on hairpin turns. Also remove your spare tire & jack, but it's not necessary. I also suggest if your car is a FWD (front wheel drive) car to pump up your air pressures to 42/38 (front/rear), cause under hard braking and turning your tires will tend to roll over (BAD!) and you might get a flat. So pump those rubbers up!!! For RWD cars you want to do the opposite 38/42 (front/rear). And then from the experiment to see what's right. Some people use 'shoe polish' or 'chalk' on their tires to see how far they are rolling over on the course. You want to make marks on the edges of your tires, make a run, then see how far you scrubbed your marks. If the marks are scrubbed too far put more more air in, if not enough then take some out.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Once you get everything removed and you think your car is ready, take it over to Tech Inspection. They will go over your car making sure the wheels are secure, the brake & gas pedal pop up, battery is secure, and overall make sure nothing will fly off your car while racing. Some clubs will also check your helmet, but if you do not have one tell them you are taking a loaner helmet. When and if you have enough time, now would be a great chance to walk the course and get a feel for what it looks like OR wait for the "newbie" meeting. Either way you will still have time to walk the course in between each of the heats. I recommend walking the course by yourself without any distractions. I have seen one too many times people talking away not paying attention to their lines, and to the other extreme people in total trances as they walk the course. For your first time out you should ask for help, which is usually available. Do not assume that you know which way to go only to find out you are heading the wrong way into the next oncoming car!
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
When they call out your heat to work make sure you show up in a timely manner. No one likes to wait for a newbie holding up the meeting. You will probably be sent with someone who knows what they are doing when you go out on the course. Basically it is your job to pick up cones (when it is safe), flag cars to stop (when a situation arises), and calling cones to the timers (incase they didn't see the cone get hit). Make sure at all times you are alert on the course. Do not sit, talk too much, and take pictures/videos when working. Anything can happen in a split second - and that split second can be the difference between getting nipped by the out of control car, or being run over. When a car goes by and clips a cone make sure it is one of the following: 1. totally out of the chalk box, 2. in the chalk box but fallen over, 3. some part of the cone touching the chalk box, but still standing. If it is one of the first two it is a penalty. If it is #3 then it's considered good and not a penalty.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
When it's your turn to race - try to stand calm and focused. They will call your heat and you will have to grid your car according to your number. I always put my helmet on when 5-6 cars ahead of me start moving. Make sure your seatbelt is pulled tight - some people always twist their seatbelts before buckling it - I personally don't find that works well for me. Some clubs have a red/yellow/green light and some just have a red/green light. You want to pull up to the line until the light turns red. The time keeper will let you out when the other car ahead of you is 1/2 way through the course. Also you do not have to go on green, the timer will start when you trip the second laser beam about 5-10 feet infront of you, so you will be able to do a quick little burn out. I usually rev my rpms up to about 3000 rpms and drop the clutch and by the time my tires catch I'm at the 2nd beam.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Now there is one thing to remember and that's "Slow To be Fast". Meaning a smoother driver (on the brakes and gas) will usually beat the Kamakazi Gung-ho driver. So take it easy on your first one or two laps. Brake before going into the turns, go into the turn, and 1/2 way through the turn start to feather the gas to get you out of the turn. I was always told never to brake in a turn, this will make your car do too many things at once and upset the balance of your car. Remember cones are usually a time penalty, with most clubs being 2 seconds added to your final time. If you get lost slow down and regain your composure. If you start to feel your car go off course and there is no saving it - just let it go. Slow down safely and stop - gain your bearings and continue on. It is better to save your car than to save your run. I have seen one too many times someone try to save their run by braking harder only to offset the balance of their car and flip!
http://home.dejazzd.com/mlouie/pylon.gif
Some tidbits for taking lines through a course:
1. For a hairpin u-turn I was always told to take the outside line, hit the middle inside cone (not literally!), then go for the outside cones again. This will keep your speed up more so than taking the inside line the whole time.
2. For S-turns (or esses) you want to take the outside line, than most inner cone, than inner cone, then outside line. Sorry about trying to explain this in words - I'll try to get some pictures up.
3. Most course will be a 2nd gear course. If you have an automatic I would leave it in 2nd or 3rd gear. In some instances I have shifted back and forth from 1st and 2nd gear. You will have to learn your car's peak torque and hp and how to keep your car in that area.
How to set-up your car:
There are basically three different types of handling a car can do - Understeer, Oversteer, and Neutral Handling. Understeer is when you want the car to turn, but you are still skidding or going straight. For example when you are driving in the snow and you want to negotiate a turn, but instead of turning right you go straight and slide past your exit/turn.
Oversteer is the opposite - you want to turn, but the rear of your car kicks around with you facing the other direction, and in some extremes go into some nice 360s.
And of course neutral handling is when your car is a balance between the both and you can initially cause your car to understeer or oversteer by using different inputs to the car - steering wheel with brakes, steering wheel with gas, etc...
For most FWD (front wheel drive) cars your car will understeer from factory. This is actually safer than oversteer. Reason being for the general population you will want a car to be controllable by letting off the brake instead of having the back end kick around when negotiating a turn.
To set-up most Hondas (which are FWD) you want more oversteer to a point of neutral handling or a little bit of oversteer. Now depending on your class you are only allowed certain modifications, so I will start with stock classes and which are allowable to my class (STS) which anything is basically legal.
drift
01-07-2002, 10:30 AM
if you like Solo II, try ProSolo :D
Belldandy
01-07-2002, 10:34 AM
Cool.
Hybrid Boy
01-07-2002, 11:24 AM
Originally posted by drift
if you like Solo II, try ProSolo :D
Why? So he can keep losing to a Prelude SH :D heheh, just givin ya crap for losin to the upper scale model...... :) I hear u are gonna beat the sh soon tho, if you already havent.,...
if you like Solo II, try ProSolo :D
Why? So he can keep losing to a Prelude SH :D heheh, just givin ya crap for losin to the upper scale model...... :) I hear u are gonna beat the sh soon tho, if you already havent.,...
k91
01-07-2002, 02:36 PM
Nice post Racer :D Makes me want to try some autocross!!
hobbesboarder
01-07-2002, 10:55 PM
finally... im sick of seeing who beat what muscle car in the quarter mile i garentee a stock civic will beat any muscle in the cones more power to you. i watched my first one over last summer in san diego it was a blast i want to compete!
SiRedge
01-08-2002, 06:37 AM
I saw a meet in Japan on TV (it was just on the news I think) and it looked so cool! Anyone know if we have them in NZ?
CivicSiRacer
01-08-2002, 07:38 AM
Autocross is so much better for your money too. Where drag races can be from $30-50 per day for maybe 6 runs at what your car runs in the 1/4 mile. Autocross is usually $15-25 and the course is usually 60 seconds plus long.
Drag racing really beats up your engine and tranny, whereas autocross wears out your brakes and tires (easily fixed).
I say go find a region at http://www.scca.org to start asap :)
Drag racing really beats up your engine and tranny, whereas autocross wears out your brakes and tires (easily fixed).
I say go find a region at http://www.scca.org to start asap :)
CivicSiRacer
01-08-2002, 07:40 AM
Originally posted by Hybrid Boy
Why? So he can keep losing to a Prelude SH :D heheh, just givin ya crap for losin to the upper scale model...... :) I hear u are gonna beat the sh soon tho, if you already havent.,...
Mr Sh will not be allowed in STS :) According to the rules his car is illegal for STS.
Plus I was only 1 second behind Mr. SH and I didn't walk the course - prolly forgot to tell you that part of the story. :) I drove 5 hours from the beach that morning to get to the autocross just in time to run. I didn't even setup my air pressures until I was in grid :)
Why? So he can keep losing to a Prelude SH :D heheh, just givin ya crap for losin to the upper scale model...... :) I hear u are gonna beat the sh soon tho, if you already havent.,...
Mr Sh will not be allowed in STS :) According to the rules his car is illegal for STS.
Plus I was only 1 second behind Mr. SH and I didn't walk the course - prolly forgot to tell you that part of the story. :) I drove 5 hours from the beach that morning to get to the autocross just in time to run. I didn't even setup my air pressures until I was in grid :)
VTEC_boi
01-08-2002, 05:07 PM
Great post man....
I'm VERY interested in getting into AutoX as soon as I am able!!
Plus..my 200SX SE-R friend can help me out with it too...he's in STS SoloII.
Do you have to meet any requirments to race in SoloI? (that's on a track right?)
I'm VERY interested in getting into AutoX as soon as I am able!!
Plus..my 200SX SE-R friend can help me out with it too...he's in STS SoloII.
Do you have to meet any requirments to race in SoloI? (that's on a track right?)
CivicSiRacer
01-09-2002, 08:23 AM
Originally posted by VTEC_boi
Great post man....
I'm VERY interested in getting into AutoX as soon as I am able!!
Plus..my 200SX SE-R friend can help me out with it too...he's in STS SoloII.
Do you have to meet any requirments to race in SoloI? (that's on a track right?)
Yes that's a little more indepth. You need to get a medical check up, get all the safety equipment (Nomex suit, gloves, shoes, SA helmet, 6 point roll cage, kill switch, fire extinguisher, attend two acredited SCCA schools (@ $200-500 a pop), attend two regional races without incident, attend 1-2 more SCCA schools, attend 1-2 regional races again....
It can get very expensive.
If you do a Solo I hill climb you need really is a log book, SA helmet, 6 point roll cage, nomex suit/gloves/shoes, and some previous track experience.
As I said Solo II is much easier and cheaper to start in and get your feet wet. And the chances of really messing up your car is alot lower and most insurance companies cover you.
Some pics to wet your appetitie:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p009d7d1bd8a8b318693bdea29ac84b73/fe0821a3.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pc842df11c0a54d78b344ec3f7a47a549/fe082179.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pdf08a2bada3de9c518d9ae9aefdb9efd/fe082135.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p01b139f9f1f5b1a615db477274bba229/fe0a1bba.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pd6a2ed3bf7075679d35c374419dff241/fe080605.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p1370c1eefb317e46ac4a5e4ee0459de9/fe0a1dd2.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p5f1b27b0a49885ffd69aa9e2eb0fda5a/fe0a1e97.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pa1617764bcacf3b08001b1be2c49544d/fe0a1f0b.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/peb6f2dffdeaed69c187e8d1c1d5fc0d7/fe0a1f9a.jpg
Great post man....
I'm VERY interested in getting into AutoX as soon as I am able!!
Plus..my 200SX SE-R friend can help me out with it too...he's in STS SoloII.
Do you have to meet any requirments to race in SoloI? (that's on a track right?)
Yes that's a little more indepth. You need to get a medical check up, get all the safety equipment (Nomex suit, gloves, shoes, SA helmet, 6 point roll cage, kill switch, fire extinguisher, attend two acredited SCCA schools (@ $200-500 a pop), attend two regional races without incident, attend 1-2 more SCCA schools, attend 1-2 regional races again....
It can get very expensive.
If you do a Solo I hill climb you need really is a log book, SA helmet, 6 point roll cage, nomex suit/gloves/shoes, and some previous track experience.
As I said Solo II is much easier and cheaper to start in and get your feet wet. And the chances of really messing up your car is alot lower and most insurance companies cover you.
Some pics to wet your appetitie:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p009d7d1bd8a8b318693bdea29ac84b73/fe0821a3.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pc842df11c0a54d78b344ec3f7a47a549/fe082179.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pdf08a2bada3de9c518d9ae9aefdb9efd/fe082135.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p01b139f9f1f5b1a615db477274bba229/fe0a1bba.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pd6a2ed3bf7075679d35c374419dff241/fe080605.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p1370c1eefb317e46ac4a5e4ee0459de9/fe0a1dd2.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p5f1b27b0a49885ffd69aa9e2eb0fda5a/fe0a1e97.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/pa1617764bcacf3b08001b1be2c49544d/fe0a1f0b.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/peb6f2dffdeaed69c187e8d1c1d5fc0d7/fe0a1f9a.jpg
SiRedge
01-09-2002, 09:08 AM
Slalom? Ooo... have to be a fair driver to get through there in good time. It'd be so fun to try autocross :)
Whtehnda93DXSdn
01-09-2002, 09:19 AM
Very nice informative thread...thanks for sharing...:frog:
dejoux
01-09-2002, 04:40 PM
Originally posted by SiRedge
I saw a meet in Japan on TV (it was just on the news I think) and it looked so cool! Anyone know if we have them in NZ?
Yes we do. Your best bet will be to get hold of whatever car club organises stuff like that. Down here its the Otago Sports Car club. THis is the same club that organisies all the rallies and standing 1/4's and all that that are done down here, you will have something similar.
Ive done a couple, the cost for it down here is $50 for a years membership to the club and $20 per event.
What I consider even better than an Autocross is a gymkhana. Same theory just the course is alot tighter and you dont get up the same speeds.
Slaloms arnt too difficult you just gotta realise if you keep pushing the whole way through your line will get worse and worse so if you starting to lose it with a few cones to go your better to back off. And look far ahead into the distnace not right at the tip of the bonnet.
I saw a meet in Japan on TV (it was just on the news I think) and it looked so cool! Anyone know if we have them in NZ?
Yes we do. Your best bet will be to get hold of whatever car club organises stuff like that. Down here its the Otago Sports Car club. THis is the same club that organisies all the rallies and standing 1/4's and all that that are done down here, you will have something similar.
Ive done a couple, the cost for it down here is $50 for a years membership to the club and $20 per event.
What I consider even better than an Autocross is a gymkhana. Same theory just the course is alot tighter and you dont get up the same speeds.
Slaloms arnt too difficult you just gotta realise if you keep pushing the whole way through your line will get worse and worse so if you starting to lose it with a few cones to go your better to back off. And look far ahead into the distnace not right at the tip of the bonnet.
drift
01-09-2002, 04:52 PM
Originally posted by CivicSiRacer
Mr Sh will not be allowed in STS :) According to the rules his car is illegal for STS.
they now run in the newly revamped STR class, now called STX. DOT legal race tyres are now only permitted in SM. all this just because the Prelude has a limited slip traction system.
WRX's have a rear LSD... i wonder if they'll be forced to run in STX? how about the Integra Type-R? they have LSD trannies, too.
forced induction is allowed in STX, but the motor must be 2 litres and smaller. stock turbocharged/supercharged vehicles are still allowed to run stock class if they prefer.
i need to destroke my Prelude to 2 litres so i can run in STX instead of SM :D
Mr Sh will not be allowed in STS :) According to the rules his car is illegal for STS.
they now run in the newly revamped STR class, now called STX. DOT legal race tyres are now only permitted in SM. all this just because the Prelude has a limited slip traction system.
WRX's have a rear LSD... i wonder if they'll be forced to run in STX? how about the Integra Type-R? they have LSD trannies, too.
forced induction is allowed in STX, but the motor must be 2 litres and smaller. stock turbocharged/supercharged vehicles are still allowed to run stock class if they prefer.
i need to destroke my Prelude to 2 litres so i can run in STX instead of SM :D
Ktulu
01-09-2002, 07:44 PM
hobbesboarder, your ignorant
Anyway,
great post. I just go my 93 ex about a month ago and am looking forward to intering some solo2 events in March:sun:
Anyway,
great post. I just go my 93 ex about a month ago and am looking forward to intering some solo2 events in March:sun:
CivicSiRacer
01-10-2002, 07:58 AM
Originally posted by SiRedge
Slalom? Ooo... have to be a fair driver to get through there in good time. It'd be so fun to try autocross :)
So do it. It's not hard to try out ;) Instructors are usually available if you mention to the registration desk you're a newbie.
Slalom? Ooo... have to be a fair driver to get through there in good time. It'd be so fun to try autocross :)
So do it. It's not hard to try out ;) Instructors are usually available if you mention to the registration desk you're a newbie.
CivicSiRacer
01-10-2002, 07:59 AM
Originally posted by Whtehnda93DXSdn
Very nice informative thread...thanks for sharing...:frog:
Welcome :)
Very nice informative thread...thanks for sharing...:frog:
Welcome :)
CivicSiRacer
01-10-2002, 08:00 AM
Originally posted by drift
they now run in the newly revamped STR class, now called STX. DOT legal race tyres are now only permitted in SM. all this just because the Prelude has a limited slip traction system.
WRX's have a rear LSD... i wonder if they'll be forced to run in STX? how about the Integra Type-R? they have LSD trannies, too.
forced induction is allowed in STX, but the motor must be 2 litres and smaller. stock turbocharged/supercharged vehicles are still allowed to run stock class if they prefer.
i need to destroke my Prelude to 2 litres so i can run in STX instead of SM :D
WRX, Type R and Prelude SH will run in STX. They are not STS legal due to their turbos or LSD.
And you cannot destroke your Prelude - remember STX follows STS so you cannot mess with internal engine components :)
they now run in the newly revamped STR class, now called STX. DOT legal race tyres are now only permitted in SM. all this just because the Prelude has a limited slip traction system.
WRX's have a rear LSD... i wonder if they'll be forced to run in STX? how about the Integra Type-R? they have LSD trannies, too.
forced induction is allowed in STX, but the motor must be 2 litres and smaller. stock turbocharged/supercharged vehicles are still allowed to run stock class if they prefer.
i need to destroke my Prelude to 2 litres so i can run in STX instead of SM :D
WRX, Type R and Prelude SH will run in STX. They are not STS legal due to their turbos or LSD.
And you cannot destroke your Prelude - remember STX follows STS so you cannot mess with internal engine components :)
drift
01-10-2002, 10:52 AM
Originally posted by CivicSiRacer
And you cannot destroke your Prelude - remember STX follows STS so you cannot mess with internal engine components :)
i didnt know STX followed all of STS rules like that, especially since bolt on turbos are allowed in STX if your motor is 2 litres and under. also, aftermarket LSD's are legal in STX if your vehicle was not equipped as such.
i need to go reread the book.
And you cannot destroke your Prelude - remember STX follows STS so you cannot mess with internal engine components :)
i didnt know STX followed all of STS rules like that, especially since bolt on turbos are allowed in STX if your motor is 2 litres and under. also, aftermarket LSD's are legal in STX if your vehicle was not equipped as such.
i need to go reread the book.
CivicSiRacer
01-14-2002, 08:31 AM
Originally posted by drift
i didnt know STX followed all of STS rules like that, especially since bolt on turbos are allowed in STX if your motor is 2 litres and under. also, aftermarket LSD's are legal in STX if your vehicle was not equipped as such.
i need to go reread the book.
No you cannot bolt on a turbo/supercharger - that's what SM (Street Mod) is for. You can add a LSD if your car didn't come equipped with it though.
i didnt know STX followed all of STS rules like that, especially since bolt on turbos are allowed in STX if your motor is 2 litres and under. also, aftermarket LSD's are legal in STX if your vehicle was not equipped as such.
i need to go reread the book.
No you cannot bolt on a turbo/supercharger - that's what SM (Street Mod) is for. You can add a LSD if your car didn't come equipped with it though.
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