Best Way To Apply Wax
ViperJ
03-19-2004, 09:28 AM
Hey guys, wanted some suggestions on the best way to wax. I know this sounds like a stupid question but how do you get a show quality shine? Ie polish, wax, towels, car wash etc?
mcpbw
03-19-2004, 12:03 PM
This is a copy of an email that I sent to a fellow AF member....
""What is your intention? Are you looking to just clean it up a bit and add a little protection or are you looking to go all out and make it look better than new? Just to give you a little background on me and my experience.......I am 24 and have been detailing since I was old enough to drive. In the summer of 2001 I decided to detail as a part time job and have been doing so since. I have used Meguiars, 3m, Zymol, TurtleWax, Eagle One, and Mothers as well as Body (PRO) shop products like Carbrite, Ardex, Meguiars ProLine, Eagle one Proline, Wizards and a few other private label companies products. I have learned a great deal through online detailing forums as well as a lot of practice. But I don't want to bore you so lets move on....
Basically you need to have a basic understanding of detailing, which really entails a lot but with practice you can become quite good and even make some money at it yourself. The number one thing to remember is that the end result has more to do with the preparation of the paint than just the wax you choose. Second, steer clear of gimmick products that claim over the top durability and swear by the use of Teflon in their products. Awhile back a 3m (Teflon manuf) exec released a statement that Teflon does nothing to increase the durability of painted surfaces. For Teflon to bond to a surface
it has to be heated to 600+ degrees. Even the best sealant will only protect up to 6 months and that is with proper maintenance. If you choose to purchase products locally than I recommend Meguiars as they outperform the other "retail" products.
STEP 1 Washing
Choose a quality soap (meguiars gold class) avoid using dish soap as it leaves a residue and removes vital "oils" from the finish. Use a chenille wash mitt (avoid sponges and brushes as they tend to drag dirt across the paint and scratch) and wash from top to bottom saving the wheels and tires for last. To dry use a leaf blower (if available) and/or a quality cotton or Microfiber towel.
STEP 2 Claying
This may be a new idea to you but it is worth the extra step. You can buy a kit from most auto parts stores usually called Meguiars Quick clay kit or (Clay Magic...my preference). Use the clay as directed and you will definitely notice a difference in the smoothness of the paint which is vital for a show car shine. This needs only to be done 1X a year
STEP 3 Polish and/or Paint Cleaner
Polishing smoothes out the clearcoat and removes fine scratches and other contaminants and most finish imperfections. Assuming that you are going to go about this by hand, make sure you get a product that can be used effectively by hand as some require the use of a rotary polisher. Polishing also restores some of the natural oils in the paint and makes the paint much glossier and clear. 1-2x a year depending on maintenance
STEP 4 Protection
Choose a liquid wax or sealant as they are much more user friendly. A
sealant is a synthetic polymer coating that outlasts carnauba wax products but gives different results. Some Sealants tend to be more clear but lack that deep look, whereas carnauba gives that deep wet look. Apply 1 coat and remove then repeat to ensure full, uniform coverage. Every 8 - 12 weeks or sooner for shine, the protection of some products could be more or less.
Step 5 Maintain
Basically this really isn't a step but a recommendation to prolong the life of your wax/sealant. Always wash as described in step one or use a well known touch less car wash. Avoid automatic "soft cloth" Carwashes as the brushes and sponges they use WILL scratch your paint and become more noticeable as time goes on. Use a "Quick Detailer" which is typically a spray cleaner that helps restore luster and protection to your finish.
If you are looking for the easy way, than just cut out #2 and #5. Basically this is a 3-4 hr process for the experienced and a 4-6 hr job for first timer(for all steps) but it is more than worth it in the end. Any more questions, feel free to email me.""
This is just a general guideline and I know I havent elaborated on the actual performing of each task. If you need further help just email me. I am working on a full write up / guide and will post it as its own Thread it as soon as I am done. Hope this Helps.
Eric
""What is your intention? Are you looking to just clean it up a bit and add a little protection or are you looking to go all out and make it look better than new? Just to give you a little background on me and my experience.......I am 24 and have been detailing since I was old enough to drive. In the summer of 2001 I decided to detail as a part time job and have been doing so since. I have used Meguiars, 3m, Zymol, TurtleWax, Eagle One, and Mothers as well as Body (PRO) shop products like Carbrite, Ardex, Meguiars ProLine, Eagle one Proline, Wizards and a few other private label companies products. I have learned a great deal through online detailing forums as well as a lot of practice. But I don't want to bore you so lets move on....
Basically you need to have a basic understanding of detailing, which really entails a lot but with practice you can become quite good and even make some money at it yourself. The number one thing to remember is that the end result has more to do with the preparation of the paint than just the wax you choose. Second, steer clear of gimmick products that claim over the top durability and swear by the use of Teflon in their products. Awhile back a 3m (Teflon manuf) exec released a statement that Teflon does nothing to increase the durability of painted surfaces. For Teflon to bond to a surface
it has to be heated to 600+ degrees. Even the best sealant will only protect up to 6 months and that is with proper maintenance. If you choose to purchase products locally than I recommend Meguiars as they outperform the other "retail" products.
STEP 1 Washing
Choose a quality soap (meguiars gold class) avoid using dish soap as it leaves a residue and removes vital "oils" from the finish. Use a chenille wash mitt (avoid sponges and brushes as they tend to drag dirt across the paint and scratch) and wash from top to bottom saving the wheels and tires for last. To dry use a leaf blower (if available) and/or a quality cotton or Microfiber towel.
STEP 2 Claying
This may be a new idea to you but it is worth the extra step. You can buy a kit from most auto parts stores usually called Meguiars Quick clay kit or (Clay Magic...my preference). Use the clay as directed and you will definitely notice a difference in the smoothness of the paint which is vital for a show car shine. This needs only to be done 1X a year
STEP 3 Polish and/or Paint Cleaner
Polishing smoothes out the clearcoat and removes fine scratches and other contaminants and most finish imperfections. Assuming that you are going to go about this by hand, make sure you get a product that can be used effectively by hand as some require the use of a rotary polisher. Polishing also restores some of the natural oils in the paint and makes the paint much glossier and clear. 1-2x a year depending on maintenance
STEP 4 Protection
Choose a liquid wax or sealant as they are much more user friendly. A
sealant is a synthetic polymer coating that outlasts carnauba wax products but gives different results. Some Sealants tend to be more clear but lack that deep look, whereas carnauba gives that deep wet look. Apply 1 coat and remove then repeat to ensure full, uniform coverage. Every 8 - 12 weeks or sooner for shine, the protection of some products could be more or less.
Step 5 Maintain
Basically this really isn't a step but a recommendation to prolong the life of your wax/sealant. Always wash as described in step one or use a well known touch less car wash. Avoid automatic "soft cloth" Carwashes as the brushes and sponges they use WILL scratch your paint and become more noticeable as time goes on. Use a "Quick Detailer" which is typically a spray cleaner that helps restore luster and protection to your finish.
If you are looking for the easy way, than just cut out #2 and #5. Basically this is a 3-4 hr process for the experienced and a 4-6 hr job for first timer(for all steps) but it is more than worth it in the end. Any more questions, feel free to email me.""
This is just a general guideline and I know I havent elaborated on the actual performing of each task. If you need further help just email me. I am working on a full write up / guide and will post it as its own Thread it as soon as I am done. Hope this Helps.
Eric
luv2cruz2
08-23-2004, 07:46 AM
Well what I do is wash and dry (obviously) get all the bugs off then get an orbital buffer/waxer. I start on the hood and work my way back, pour some wax on the hood and then some on the pad slowly rub in without turning it on then once you start turning turn the buffer on and don't leave in 1 place at a time you'll burn the paint, :nono: make a continuos motion duing the whole car then chang the pad to a buffer pad then do the whole car again. A buffer will drasticlly cut your time down. :bananasmi
Markgase2000
08-23-2004, 09:47 AM
If your polishing or buffing make sure you follow the basic aero dynamics of the car , move the polisher buffer the same direction the air would flow if you were driving it. I wrote a step by step process that is used for even the most severe most advanced paint repair methods with power polisher and compounds its much too big to post in here but if you are interested in doin a real professional job then send me a pm and i will send it out to you. It also describes different products and procedures to be used in different cases. After 5 years of professional power polishing and trying hundreds of methods this particular step by step method has made me huge bucks and made me kinda famous I have also been teaching it to body shop guys who were in the buisness up to 30 years that wanna finally do it right. Merely offering help.
I know compounds so well that I can hand apply products and do a much better job than most can do with a power polisher i can tell paint thickness and integrity just by looking at it i can also tell if any body has polished/waxed the paint previously by hand or machine what types of steps they have takin and where they went wrong in the process. The only reason I know all this is because I have made evey major mistake that you could possably make in this buisness and just learned from them.
Make sure you learn and understand the difference between waxes and synthetic compounds. Remember its not just polishing and shining its making a chemical reaction to the paint.
I know compounds so well that I can hand apply products and do a much better job than most can do with a power polisher i can tell paint thickness and integrity just by looking at it i can also tell if any body has polished/waxed the paint previously by hand or machine what types of steps they have takin and where they went wrong in the process. The only reason I know all this is because I have made evey major mistake that you could possably make in this buisness and just learned from them.
Make sure you learn and understand the difference between waxes and synthetic compounds. Remember its not just polishing and shining its making a chemical reaction to the paint.
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