Motor oil and filter

What type of motor oil should I buy? I want to get the synthetic oil. I was wondering what were some preferences on brands and weights considering my engine has high mileage, the higher weight would be better or just stick to the 10w30 or 40. Also what about the oil filter? What brand oil filter is better than one that say a quick lube place would put in? Thanks for any input.

Mobile 1 10w-30 Synthetic with a Mitsubishi OEM oil filter.... Either that or Amsoil... Been using that combo since ive had the car.... Got rid of that annoying lifter tick when i first bought the car..

i use penzoil 5w3o

Nobody likes to hear that I buy whatever is on sale, like $0.99 Pennzoil 5w30. I use NAPA gold oil filter... next time I might stop by the dealer and buy OEM. Quantity over quality for me. :)

i use penzoil 5w30 with fram oil filters. i used to use redline oil and k&n oil filter but that was getting way to expensive. so i now go the same way as JoeWagon, quantity over quality.

I went to PepBoys one day.. and case of Mobil 1 wouldnt ring up.. So she punched it in and it rang up $11 for a case of 6 quarts... So being the dishonest bastard that i am.. I went to the cash machine then went back and bought 3 more cases.. at $11 each.. Instead of the usual $30 a case.. And have acquired a pretty impressive stockpile of Mobil 1.... Yes.. im aware of bad Karma.. But ive got more than enough points stocked up to cover it :)

i run amsoil 10w40 with an amsoil filter. Quality over Quantity

How much is amsoil anyway?

for a new engine what would yall recomend.A freind of mine has a 87 monte carlo aerocoupe with a new 383 stroker motor and he runs Havolin or Moble 1 but not synthetic. he says its not all that much better for the price diffrence, as long as you change your oil every 3k miles

I run a decent regular 10-30 type oil, like penzoil or whatever. But do NOT skimp on the filter! Fram is among the worst there is. The best ones are OEM (~4 bucks) and Pure1 (~5 bucks). Cheap oil is fine, but cheap filters will cost you turbos and motor bearings over time. Then you realize you didnt save all the much...

cut a fram filter in half and then cut a oem and a purolater or whatever it is. the fram is thinnest or shittiest, i think purolater then oem i donno. fram is shit they just put more into advertisement... see for your self and cut some open.

How much is amsoil anyway?

just under $6 a quart.

i use 10w-40 synthetic as well...living in FL oh yeah watch that ticker go to 107k..lol

I run a decent regular 10-30 type oil, like penzoil or whatever. But do NOT skimp on the filter! Fram is among the worst there is. The best ones are OEM (~4 bucks) and Pure1 (~5 bucks). Cheap oil is fine, but cheap filters will cost you turbos and motor bearings over time. Then you realize you didnt save all the much...

Yes Fram is complete and udder shit. I have personnaly seen Fram filters on an engine causing the oil pressure light to come on becasue the pressure was under 5psi at idle.

OE filters for sure, Ill be running Mobli1 synthetic once I get my engine broken in.

you gotta know history on the Oil.. cant just buy what they say.. I'd personally go with castrol synthetic.. castrol was previously only used in top fuel and funny cars.. untill castrol released a street formula... ~GTX~ which happen to be very similar to the formula use in top fuel.. except they added something to make it recondition used and dried out seals.. GTX is fine i just use senthetic because its a turbo talon.. and it doesnt break down as quick and gtx.. filter.. hmm i like to use FRAM.. there are different type i forget what its called.. but its about 10 dollars.. made for synthetic uses..

i use castrol 10W30 drive hard :smokin:
and OEM filters,actually I only use it because thats the only one that would clear my downpipe, I guess I should stick with it

My buddies kid was about 3 when he learned how to say "castrol GTX, drive hard!" along with the commercial, lmao...

you gotta know history on the Oil.. cant just buy what they say.. I'd personally go with castrol synthetic.. castrol was previously only used in top fuel and funny cars.. untill castrol released a street formula... ~GTX~ which happen to be very similar to the formula use in top fuel.. except they added something to make it recondition used and dried out seals.. GTX is fine i just use senthetic because its a turbo talon.. and it doesnt break down as quick and gtx.. filter.. hmm i like to use FRAM.. there are different type i forget what its called.. but its about 10 dollars.. made for synthetic uses..

amsoil was developed for use in jet engines, so i doubt that any of our little 4-bangers are putting as much stress on the oil as compared to a jet-turbine.;)

What type of motor oil should I buy? I want to get the synthetic oil. I was wondering what were some preferences on brands and weights considering my engine has high mileage, the higher weight would be better or just stick to the 10w30 or 40. Also what about the oil filter? What brand oil filter is better than one that say a quick lube place would put in? Thanks for any input.

I've got some good info: Oil filters that are good are Purolator, AC, Bosch, Wix, Mobil 1, NAPA,... pretty much anything but FRAM. Ban Fram and you'll be fine. The details are at: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html if you'd like to read all that. By the way, beware of oil filters that merely put a new label on an actual Fram filter. Compare the way the filter looks from the opening end if you aren't sure if it is really a Fram-filter-in-hiding.

About which oil to use: I've researched that and here goes:

Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic 0W-30 if you live north of Texas,
and Mobil 1 0W-30 if you live south of Texas (southern states only).

Why? Almost half your lifetime engine wear occurs during cranking (confirmed by several engineer friends and also by Mobil Oil Company), so a 0W-30 is the right weight to cut wear down. The "0W" part means the oil gets up and gets going to the bearings the fastest during engine cranking at start-up. Therefore, a "0W" is the best. (A "0W-30" can be used anywhere the manufacturer recommends a 5w-30.)

But why Chevron Delo Synthetic 0W-30 for anybody who lives north of Texas? Taking the "Dragnet" approach, "Just-The-Facts", look at the incredible technical spec sheet at http://bestsyntheticoil.com/dealers...une-17-2003.pdf and notice that Chevron, employing some of the best engineers and having some of the best labs in the world, have come up with a synthetic oil that has a Pour Point of -76 degrees below zero. BEST THERE IS. That low number means that their Delo Synthetic 0W-30 oil resists the bad effects of cool temperatures, indicating that it is going to flow better when the weather is simply below freezing as well. By the way, the Chevron oil's Flash Point is still OK at 419 degrees (any number over 400 is good).

South of Texas (any southern state), its fine to use Mobil 1 0W-30, since its Pour Point is almost as good as Chevron's Delo Synthetic, and Mobil 1 has a slight edge on high temperature Flash Point.

Also, Mobil 1, like Chevron Delo Synthetic, is produced by world-class, well-funded engineers with some of the best labs anywhere. This means Mobil 1 or Chevron synthetic have proper additive packages in addition to having oil that flows at cooler temps and hangs in there at high temps.

One note: If racing or pulling a trailer, you might want to use Chevron Delo Synthetic 5w-40 weight or Mobil 1 synthetic 0w-40 weight. However, the 0w-30 weights in both brands of oil would probably do just fine there too. One more note about racing: Using Mobil 1 0w-20 may be the best for racing, since the lower-viscosity "20" number means it takes less horsepower to run the oil pump, giving you slightly more horsepower available to drive the wheels! Slight horsepower advantage with the thinner "0w-20" Mobil 1 synthetic, but possibly less engine life. Again, the Mobil 1 "0w-40" would make the engine last longer in racing, but it soaks up more horsepower than the Mobil 1 "0w-20" --- you choose which is more important when racing!

Chevron Delo Synthetic 0w-30 may only be available at trucking supply stores. Mobil 1 is available everywhere.

I don't work for Chevron or Mobil. I am an engineer (Mechanical/Aerospace/Computer) and I think you've got to go on the facts without ANY marketing hype.

It may be noted that Chevron sells the Delo Synthetic to trucking fleet managers who they know will see the numbers, so marketing hype is not going to suffice. That might be why Chevron has the best Pour Point while some other more heavily consumer-advertised oils don't.

For higher mileage (more than 75,000 miles) it may be good to go to Mobil 1 0W-40. Again, stick with the "0w", but in this case make the top number "40" to fill the larger clearances in older engines. I'm not completely sure about whether you really have to go to the 0w-40, and if it was me I would stick with the Chevron Delo Synthetic 0w-30 for any car in states north of Texas, and Mobil 1 synthetic 0w-30 for southern states, as in the analysis above, even for older engines.

good luck

where would i find these "amsoil" are they at autozone or pepboy ? tell me!

whats the difference between 0w,5w,10w,cuz i dont know ,thanks

well bostonjoe, the wate is temp driven. example 10w-30, 40, or 50 is recomended for temps of -9 degrese up to100+. 5w-30, 40 are for sub-climent temps -20 upto 100. anything under 5w isn't a good idea unless your living in greenland, or changing your oil in the winter time. stick with 10W if you plan on driving hard, and change it 1500 miles if you drag on friday & sat night..

10w30 castrol synthetic w/ whatever is a premium filter at jiffy lube... although they did forget to tighten my girl's filter and plug and the plug fell out....

Thanks for the cool info dudes

where would i find these "amsoil" are they at autozone or pepboy ? tell me!

you have to get amsoil products through an authorized amsoil dealer. i think if you hit up www.amsoil.com you can find a dealer search so you can locate an amsoil dealer in your area. some automotive stores and off-road stores do carry amsoil products, but i doubt you will find them in any chain type automotive/parts supplier. every-time i have seen them in a store it was owned by someone locally. hope that helps. :thumbsup:

i'll start off by saying hi to everyone

since im new to this forums and a happy new owner of my first car--99 eclipse gs-t

just wondering if there's a difference between changing the oil to a turbo car to a nt. since my car is in need of an oil change i would like to do it my self but, i've never done this before. i would appreciate it if anyone could list the steps.

Welcome to the forum. You can find your answer by searching, and by rule of thumb, don't reply to posts from 6 months ago like this one. If you need to reply, start a new thread asking your question.

Hey man ,welcome to the forum! (ps thanx for bringing up this old post, even though you werent supposed too, lol...it had all the info i needed! )