O2 wire trick or drill tap for it?

OK, today I got pretty far in my swap on my teg, I got the radiator and fans out for some room, the AC and PS pump off and tied up to the front so I dont have to recharge the AC or refill the PS, the lower front mounts off, all hoses/harneses disconnected, trans drained and axles out, all bolts from engine to trans loosened, exhaust manifold off, slave off and to the side.

I am putting in a 11:1 B20 with a exedy clutch kit. now I am doing it kindof a weird way, i am lowering the trans, then lowering the engine since I dont have a hoiost and my drivewya is gravel so the cherry picker wouldnt roll anyways.

I am putting my B18 head ont he B20 block or the LS cams into the B20 head, havent decided yet, and I am going to put my headers on finally, went to put them on a week or so ago, took off manifold and bolted them on and go undewr the car to hook it all up down there an DOH, the collector was almost 7 inches away from the flange. but luckily I had my exhaust done by a friends shop a while back and had no cat put in since mine was holow anyways and didnt wanna buy a new one, but I had him flare my piping out of the cat to fit snugly inside the 2.25" piping so I could use a clamp if I ever wanted to put it back on, so I am going to bolt the cat on and cut the pipe back a few inches and il have my headers on, BUT... my headers have no threads for the O2 sensor, I was wondering if there was a way you could trick the ECU into not putting on the light? otherwise I will take it to the shop and have a big weld put on it where the sensor would be so that I can drill a hole in it and tap some threads for the O2 sensor.


ok, now for the question about the heads. I am assuming the valves in my tegs head are seating right because it is running great, and I know the ones in the b20 arent seating right, but I bought the valve lapping compound the other day so I can fix that. now this is what I am thinking though about why I should use the B20 head with the LS cams. my pistons are 11:1 and I dont want it getting any higher than that. now I am assuming the head on the B20, the combustion chamber part of it is about 84mm matching the bore, and the same on the B18 head at 81mm. so putting the B18 head on the B20 block will raise the compression a bit more wont it. sales rep at crower told me that a B16 head would raise it about 3 points, and a B16 is the same bore as the B18 so I am asuming that it will do about the same. is this correct? if so I am for sure going to lap the B20 valves and use that head.

also, I am plannign on driving it real easy using regular oil to break in the engine and to break in the clutch for the first 1000 miles. I plan on changin the filter after about 5 miles just because I know where I built it wasnt the cleanest place to do it so just in case anything got in there I want it out quick, and then 500 miles I am gonna change oil and filter again and then after the 1000 miles woudl it be fine to then flush it with the 0w synthetic flush and then run full synthetic 5w30 or does it ned a longer break in, also using full synthetic in thre trans is better right?

this site may help you with compression questions:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php