Transmission Problem for Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 Limited.

My 96 GC LTD (108K miles) starts having a problem shifting (Auto Tranny) 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. (3rd to 4th is totally fine) It's even worse when the engine is cold. I kind of have to take my foot off from the gas to let the tranny shift to the next gear most of the time. I went to get the tranny flushed and it seemed to get better, but after a day or two, it started to have the same problem again. I've been reading all the threads here and seems like a lot of ZJ owners have the same problem. I took the car to the local tranny shop and they told me I need a new transmission which would cost me $2,500!! Does anyone, especially who had the same experience tell me what I should do? I've found some information saying that it could be the problem with a vaccum modulator or a solenoid in the valve body. I also scanned the computer and it didn't show any codes at all (only 12, and 55). Please, help me! T_T

code 12 is transmission speed sensor. @ $15 at autojunk(autozone)

Thank you very much for the reply! I thought the code 12 was the code for battery or something which means nothing? Are you sure that the speed sensor thingy applie to 96 GC? If so, do you think that is the reason my tranny has a hard time shifting? My speedometer seems working fine.

Good point. Codes may be different in different years. I had 93, was jumping out of O/D for 4 years. Couldn't figure out what it was and finally got book on 93 codes. said code 12 was TRANS output sensor. Fixed problem

Yeah, I was looking for the codes list for 96 GC, but hasn't been successful. Does anyone know where?

Was the pan pulled when you had the flush???
should be checked to see how much gunk is in the pan////
lots? you need a trans///re-built,,,,used ect,ect

I don't think the pan was pulled when I had the flush. I hope I can avoid the rebuilt or buying a new tranny because the money is very tight..

Also the govenor pressure solenoid and govenor pressure sensor(transducer) have a very high failure rate. They can be defective and not set codes. Boy, I hate flushing machine places, what a waste of consumers money!!! Good luck

I just realized when I have a shifting problem 2nd to 3rd, I manually shift the gear and it shifts to the 3rd gear. I was thinking...It may have a problem with a torque converter? What do you think?

Not the torque converter. The converter will have an effect on all gears.

So you think what you said was the problem?

Does it seem that when its shifting, like its just slidding from 1st 2nd 3rd as it is upshifting? Not really any shifts that feel positive and firm? When you let shift automatically. Other than 3 to 4 shift(into OD).

If this is the case. Then you need to monitor data stream in computer. Sounds like the govenor solenoids are not working correctly but thats just an educated guess as I'm not monitoring data.

But, if it just don't like to shift in 3rd gear? There is a seal in the direct clutch drum that shrinks and fails to retain oil pressure. This will usually not let you shift into 3rd(direct) very easily. Did the tranny shop give you a specific reason why for needing a rebuild? If so, what was it?

1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are not positive and firm. 2nd to 3rd is the worst sometimes the revs goes up to 4500rpm and still doesn't shit, so I need to do it manually by putting the gear into 2nd and put it back to the drive. I don't know any good transmission shops, so I will have the dealer do the diagnosis for me this week. I hope they will not rip me off. It feels like the tranny doesn't want to shift when I keep my foot on the gas normally.

This actually sounds like the inner seal on the direct(front) clutch has shrunk:( Especially, with it worst cold, as when it warms up the seal will expand a little. Just have them make sure your TV cable is correct as this can effect the 2-3 shift more than any other. Good luck

If that's the case, you know how much it will cost to fix? I hope it doesn't cost too much. The money is tight!!

Every area of the country is different for prices for a rebuild. A respectable shop will not "car lot" (patch) your transmission. Because they know, once they open up that tranny, they own it. So they will make it the best transmission they can. Maybe someone could just pull the front clutch and seal it up. They won't know what the rest of it looks like inside as the don't make x-ray machines for this, yet.

I cannot say for sure that this is the problem with your transmission as I'm not actually in the vehicle diagnosing it. There is so much more to an automatic transmission than most people can even begin to cope with. Hopefully, I can just give good insight and you'll make the right choice for you.

Thanks for all the replies. By the way, are you a mechanic? Seems like you know a lot of stuffs. Now, I am just hoping it won't cost too much to fix the problem. I don't think the car is worth all the money for fixing like $2500.

My 96 GC LTD (108K miles) starts having a problem shifting (Auto Tranny) 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. (3rd to 4th is totally fine) It's even worse when the engine is cold. I kind of have to take my foot off from the gas to let the tranny shift to the next gear most of the time. I went to get the tranny flushed and it seemed to get better, but after a day or two, it started to have the same problem again. I've been reading all the threads here and seems like a lot of ZJ owners have the same problem. I took the car to the local tranny shop and they told me I need a new transmission which would cost me $2,500!! Does anyone, especially who had the same experience tell me what I should do? I've found some information saying that it could be the problem with a vaccum modulator or a solenoid in the valve body. I also scanned the computer and it didn't show any codes at all (only 12, and 55). Please, help me! T_T HI FIRST THE CODE 12 THAT YOU GOT IS NOT THE TRANSMISSION SPEED SENSOR ( IT MEANS THAT THE BATTERY CABLE HAS BEEN RECENTLY REMOVED!!!!!!!!!) REPAIRING A TRANSMISSION INVOLVES A LOT OF WORK. $ 2500.00 IS A AVERAGE COST FOR REPAIRING IT. DON;T FLUSH, OR ADD ANYTHING TO TRY TO REPAIR IT CHEAP YOU'RE JUST CAUSEING YOURSELF MORE TROUBLES. I DON'T HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH TRANSMISSION REPAIR. GO TO A GOOD SHOP ASK QUESTIONS IF THEY DON'T WANT TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS-----LEAVE-- IF YOU HAVE SOMEONE REPAIR IT ASK TO SEE THE PARTS THEY REPLACE& WHY THEY WERE REPLACED---ASK QUESTIONS DALE jeepman600@aol.com ALSO CODE 55 MEANS THE END OF CODES

well, yes I am a mechanic. 20 some years everyday working on cars and trucks. More specifically, domestic transmission, drivetrain and electronics.

It seems most of the time a major repair will cost what the vehicle is worth(market value) It must be worth it to you. Also, if you just go out and purchase another(vehicle). It could be worse than yours real quick. (The devil you know is better than the devil you don't)

Stay cool

Do you think I need to rebuilt the transmission or get a new tranny from your experience?

Thanks for the reply. I will make sure that what the dealer will fix and why. I want to make sure the service I am getting.

Sorry, I meant purchase another car that could have just as many or more problems just waiting for you because the last person dumped that car for their own reasons. Now, you own their problem.

The only "new" transmission you will ever get is when you buy a vehicle brand new. There is a couple auto manufactures that sell new, but, thats only because their parts are captive. Otherwise, transmissions are all rebuilt, remanufactured or overhauled, which, basically all mean the same thing. Just not the same quality across the board. As there is no set stardard to call a rebuilt transmission a rebuilt transmission. Every person and every shop has there own standards and guidelines and profits to which a transmission is rebuilt.

Thanks. If I really need to overhaul the tranny, I think I would buy it from the on-line remanufactured. It's much cheaper than shops or dealers as they may charge me $2500~3000. I can probably find it on-line for $1000~1250.

I have an 89 Cherokee 4.0 3spd w/OD Auto. It seems I kind of have the same problem. Mine seems to act like the passing gear is kicked in all the time. Really high revs to shift and no OD at all. One afternoon I went to the store and It was fine! At least for 3 days, then it started again. I checked, adjusted the kickdown cable, no good, I even un hooked it, nothing. I'm about to drop the pan and adjust the bands. I'm going to look into the speed sensor and trans output sensor. Any other Ideas besides "Hey buddy, you need a new tranny?"

I have an 89 Cherokee 4.0 3spd w/OD Auto. It seems I kind of have the same problem. Mine seems to act like the passing gear is kicked in all the time. Really high revs to shift and no OD at all. One afternoon I went to the store and It was fine! At least for 3 days, then it started again. I checked, adjusted the kickdown cable, no good, I even un hooked it, nothing. I'm about to drop the pan and adjust the bands. I'm going to look into the speed sensor and trans output sensor. Any other Ideas besides "Hey buddy, you need a new tranny?"
HI, JUST A FIGURE OF SPEECH ,BUT SOME OF THE EARLY 4.0 WITH AUTOMATICS HAD A DUAL TPS SENSORS THIS DUAL TPS NOT ONLY PROVIDED THE ECU WITH INPUT VOLTAGES , BUT ALSO SUPPLIED THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL UNIT (TCU) WITH AN INPUT OF THROTTLE POSITION. POSSIBLE CHECK POINT DALE jeepman600@aol.com :banghead:

Do not overlook the electronics! You have an AW4 (Toyota 340) transmission. Which is nothing like the tranny you were comparing your problem to in this post. You probably(99% of the time)have an electrical problem with the AW4. Even if the engine is running cold (thermostat) then you will not get OD. Also, the shift solenoids plug and flood. That cable is not kickdown, this is not a turbo hydramatic 350. That cable controls oil pressure while the computer controls shift timing. Unless this tranny has about 300k on it or is being really abused it should be an electrical problem. No bands to adjust either.

I had this same problem until I changed my thermostat. I haven't had the problem since. Living in Canada, every cold morning would be a nightmare to get to work. Zabrina.

You might check this out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&rd=1&item=2472239855&category=33727

Roger

oh man, i have a 95 gc limited and i have the same prob. when its cold 2nd to 3rd the rpms go up to like 4000 then u let off so it shifts, also when you at at a stop does your tranny kinda thump and bump? at first i thought it was my sparkplugs not firing right so i changed them but it still does it so i kno its my tranny but im in the same boat as u, money is tight, how much did it cost to get your tranny flushed?

Hey Shintan17? did you ever figure out the problem? I have the exact problem with mine. Even the money problem is the same. Don't want to replace the tranny. I was told to adjust tanny bands. Please let me know. This is really annoying!

I took the car to a few shops and they all told me that I need an overhaul, so I did it at the 5stars chrysler dealer costed me around $2400 including the torque converter. This s**t was really annoying and I couldn't take it anymore!! I hope you guys can solve the problem without doing the overhaul. I am sure there will be someways!

Yeah, I was looking for the codes list for 96 GC, but hasn't been successful. Does anyone know where?

Code 12 means that the battery cable was removed/power interrupted. within the last 50 starts. The code should go away after that. Code 55 means the end of teat:)