Intercooled Turbo Car runnin' HOT...Need Comments!!

Allright, its all in my sig, I tried the 160 Degree therstat. , It is more than likely because the New C&R Radiator is not getting airflow, because of the Intercooler which blocks off my WHOLE front end. The fan come on, but it comes on TO LATE, by the time it comes on, my coolant is boiling fuckin hot. Temp Gauge goes up.
Can I Ghetto wire my electric cooling fan so I can turn it on, and leave it on the duration in which I Drive, by a simple toggle, swich. Has anyone else with an intercooler had a similar problem. Or has anyone seen a car with a Manual toggle switch to turn on the fan at will. I think my overheating is due to restriced air flow to the radiator, I believe the "Switch Theory" will work. Please imput your suggestions and comments.
ANOTHER QUESTION. I need to get my ECU tuned, for proper fuel maps and MAP sensor programming and such. I have a 93 EX. the ECU code is like ..P28. can I just bring it up to Austin TX, and they can reprogram it for me, or do I need to get a HONData. My Haynes says it has a Data Link Port....? Can ECU tuning involve reprogramming the Cooling Fan Turn On Times, as well. I thought that if you can program a ECU fuel stuff, you can change all thing that are controlled by the ECU.
Thanks alot..

I dont think your intercooler is to blame. From the looks of your pic, my ic fills more of my front end than yours. I have the stock radiator in my car on a b16a turbo for about two years now and it has never came close to overheating at all plus I live in south florida. Also intercooler flow are extremley well, it is not restricting enough to block your radiator from getting air. If you say that you just replaced the therm, then the next step I would take is to make sure that your fan is turning on at the right time. You might have a bad sensor or relay for it. You can definatly rig your cooling fan to a toggle swith, alot of people do that with their racecars. I had it rigged up like that on the camaro that I had.

As for your ECU, you need to get hondata for you to change your fuel tables. I dont know if hondata has cooling fan control, but I know that AEM EMS does.

Ya, I do see the point of your picture. My new C&R can with a brand new fan, it does work. It just comes on a lil late. But after I posted I did some research on Spoon, and Mugen Thermoswitches, that turn on the fan alot earlier.
I still cant believe you got a stock radiator on a Turbo Motor swap with a big ass intercooler!
I will go and Buy a new Relay (25 fuckin dollars) at Oriely Auto. But maybe I just need a new (aftermarket or stock) thermoswich all-together.
?? Is it Possible that my senors are kinda bad, but my fan still comes on. Or do they work great or not at all??
Thanks for your help man. I'll "toggle rig" it tommorow, and see if the Fan Timing is even the problem.
P.S. can my 11 Year Old Stock water pump be to blame?, the coolant IS flowing for a fact, but maybe the pump is not up to its FULL potential, I told my mechanic to replace the pump and altermator during the rebuild. but "They looked good to me." --he said

well the intercooler can be part of the problem, but there are a few other posibilties, one would be as you pointed out a weak water pump, however another very likely culprit might be your A/F ratio since it sounds like you are not tuned yet you might just be running lean

Wow, you comprehended my post very well :bigthumb:
You are indeed correct, I probably am running very lean, Expecially since I haven't ordered my RC injectors yet, so I am still running Stock Injectors at 4 PSI. Shut Up, stop laughing at me. :dupe:
I didn't know that running lean like that can cause overheating, I'll study the science behind that. Do you all think I should replace my Water Pump. Also, should I buy a Low Temp Thermoswitch (fan switch), so my fan will come on ealier, me and my mechanic kinda diagnosed that as being another "running hot" factor. But, in the meen time, I will connect my Fan to a Toggle Switch till I figure out a solution.
Thanks Again

Wow, you comprehended my post very well :bigthumb:
You are indeed correct, I probably am running very lean, Expecially since I haven't ordered my RC injectors yet, so I am still running Stock Injectors at 4 PSI. Shut Up, stop laughing at me. :dupe:
I didn't know that running lean like that can cause overheating, I'll study the science behind that. Do you all think I should replace my Water Pump. Also, should I buy a Low Temp Thermoswitch (fan switch), so my fan will come on ealier, me and my mechanic kinda diagnosed that as being another "running hot" factor. But, in the meen time, I will connect my Fan to a Toggle Switch till I figure out a solution.
Thanks Again


Running lean is about as dangerous as it can get for an engine. I'm not sure why exactly a lean af causes such high temperatures but i suspect it has something to do with the chemical reaction being hotter and more violent.


Well whatever the cause a lean af can cause such high temperatures that your pistons can literally melt unless of course detonation kills you engine firts.

so definitivelly upgarde that fuel system if its not up to the task and tune the car asap.

Upgrading the cooling system is almost useless at this point since it will never be enough to compensate for the temperatures caused by a lean af. However i would be willing to bet that after the new injectors and tuning your car will run at normal temperatures with the current cooling system.


PS. get a wideband AF gauge to keep an eye on the ration and an EGT gauge to monitor the exaust temp. An egt gauge will tell you way before the water temp gauge if its something wrong

Wow, I did not know running lean was that serious, I always thought running rich was dangerous. I will order the injectors tommorow, and tune the car when I get back from Spring Break.
I have the Apexi Turbo Timer, but the A/F ratio feature does not want to work; Maybe it is not compatable with my o2 sensor, i check the connections twice. I had never thought about getting a EGT gauge, I may considerite. I will order the Fuel Injectors On monday. (Yay, got my Income Tax) :D

Ya running lean like that can definatly effect your car, i think its something like u car has to work a lot more to push that un burned air out. See like your air and fuel are probably still burning when ur pistons on its way dowm cuz of the mass amount of air/fuel. Just another quick question, which brand intercooler did u use and what size. Im gonna turbo my lude this summer.

Wow, I did not know running lean was that serious, I always thought running rich was dangerous. I will order the injectors tommorow, and tune the car when I get back from Spring Break.
I have the Apexi Turbo Timer, but the A/F ratio feature does not want to work; Maybe it is not compatable with my o2 sensor, i check the connections twice. I had never thought about getting a EGT gauge, I may considerite. I will order the Fuel Injectors On monday. (Yay, got my Income Tax) :D


Nope running ritch will rob you of power and it will prove bad in the long term. However lean ratios can destroy your engine in a matter of seconds. So when you tune, if in doubt always err on the side of rich - it is much safer.


And if you tune it make sure you get a very good tuner. Any good mechanic can install parts like a turbo kit but tuning is more of an art. A good tuner is invaluable and higly sought after. So see if you can get some recomandations.

BTW the af gauge on the apexi hooks up only to your stock narowband O2 sensor and its as useless as all the other narowband based gauges. What you need is another wideband sensor and its coresponding gauge.

the aem Wideband UEGO gauge and sensor is a very good package:
http://www.aempower.com/product_ems.asp

And an egt temp gauge is as important. It can tell you very fast if there is something wrong. The water gauge will tell you the same thing eventually but even a minute delay can cost you your engine.


IMO a wideband af gauge and an egt gauge are vital on a custom turbo car.

edit: here is a pic of the aem gauge
http://www.aempower.com/productSubCatImages/36_1_f.jpg

Wow thats sexy and probly expensive.
I use the Rev Hard Intercooler 28x6.5x3
I hope my New Injectors will put all this comotion behind me. Do yall think they will help. I will pop them in right when I get back. Can't wait.
Cause here's my theory.
: more burn fuel = more exhaust; more exhaust = faster turbo spool :

Fuck; Well guy's (or gals) I tried to toggle switch the radiador fan. it works. BUT my fucking engine is still gittin hot, not the red line overheating, but it gets past the midway marker. :banghead: I Fuckin hope, that this is all because the Lean Fuel Ratio, and I hope my new RC ones will even out the ratio a little, and stop this shit. The air is bleed out, no leaks, The water pump isn't making crazy noises, so I asume it is still good, even thought it is 11 Years old. But it is Foaked up that during the whole "Break In" period for my engine and during the last two months with the Turbo, it did not have ANY problems. I even raced it at the track without anything being changed, it was fine than. Now all the sudden I am getting hot. Like I said, all this is at 4 PSI (just for reference).
It kinda made me feal better though, when some were saying it was from the Low fuel mixture, I hope it is that; we'll see after spring break.
Any one want to buy my car for only $10,000. :disappoin:

Quick question, where does that O2 sensor plug in? and whats an EGT gauge? Whats the dfference between a narrowband and wideband gauge?

well keep us up to date on your car. i'm very curios after the new injectors and some tuning if it runs cool

and the aem wideband is not that expensive, its actually one of the cheaper ones out there and is very goo


Quick question, where does that O2 sensor plug in? and whats an EGT gauge? Whats the dfference between a narrowband and wideband gauge?


a wideband gauge can tell you much more precisely the af ratio than a narowband since it can work on multipe, voltages instead of the two used by narowband

an aftermarket wideband o2 should be pluged in your exaust right after the turbo

Of course the narowband stock O2's in ODBII cars are before and after the cat

and an EGT gauge indicates your exaust gas temperatures

Ok Neutrino for sure, I'll post again a little after spring break hopfuly with the installed Injectors.

Cool. And have fun in spring break ;)