Almost lost my Spyder Last Night

Here's a story for you guys....

I was closing up work last night, and a few friends that were on spring break were with me. We decided to leave my car since i only fit 2 and a half people in it anyways. So we take 2 cars, 1 car went to Taco Bell, and the other went to the house. I was with my friend as we went to taco bell. On our way back, we pass my work, where my cars factory alarm was blaring like no other. To make it worse, a cop was there, and a battery truck. I get out of my friends truck and run to the car just as the cop pulls out his night stick and is about to bust my window. I unlock the car with the remote and the alarm stops. The had planned on busting the window, open the hood, disconnecting the battery, and towing my car to the impound. As it turns out so far, it seems that the reason i got the keyless entry system, which was cause my driver side lock cylinder was damaged, and mitsubishi wanted 2 arms and a half a leg for it, IS the reason my alarms going off now. Apparantly there's a wire or pin switch or something that goes to the cylinders, and if that's not engaged when the car is supposed to be locked, it accepts it as being intruded and the factory alarm goes off. After i finish typing this, i am taking it to mitsubishi to get the talks over, and see how much i might have to dish out. :nutkick:

What was the cops problem......Why break your window. The car was parked at your work so there shouldn't be any reason to tow it. Uh...DUH...lets break a window so the battery doesn't go dead. What a moron

No, they will break the window so no one has to hear the alarm. They dont care about his battery any more than they care about his window they are about to smash in. ;) Also be aware that over time the hood switch will sag especially if you've hacked up the radiator support for a FMIC install. I had trouble with that. The alarm was always going off. That was my case, yours seems to be different. But if the lock doesnt fix it try that next (dont adjust it at the same time you do the door, you'll never know what fixed it :) ).

I dont even have a lock cylinder on my drivers side, and the key goes into the passenger side but wont turn, and even if the hatch lock would shut it off someone broke another key off in there. So I cant shut the damn thing off. Why do poeple inisist on breaking my shit. I dont know.

wow cops in boston will walk by your car if the alarm is going off ,,lololol they could care less...

Here's how my day went after my first post.

I pull up to Mitsubishi and almost immediately pull my car in the bay. Unfortunately, i didn't have another ride to take me away, so i stayed for 3 hours as they ripped my door panels off, my trunk panel, and popped the hood to find the problem. As i waited, i watched the fine piece of ass who thinks she's a car dealer, but really didn't do shit all day except flirt with everyone (sorry, a little off topic, but it was 3 hours, so it had to be mentioned). I also test drove a 2004 5-speed 2004 Lancer Ralliart, which lays a pretty nice patch of rubber down i might add. Unfortunately, they wouldn't let me test drive the Evolution. Anyways, as i got back, another dealer kept trying to hustle me, trying to talk me into trading in the spyder for a new car, saying all mitsu owners get an immediate 6 grand in trade in towards any 03 or 04 mitsu. After the long exhausting wait, they've come to the conclusion that both driver and passenger lock cylinders are corroded, and though they've stopped the alarm temporarily by removing the moisture, it will start up again pretty soon. Mitsubishi wants $200 for the lock cylinders (apparently mitsubishi orders a package of 2 door lock cylinders, an ignition cylinder, and a trunk cylinder, just so you have the convenience of using 1 key), and labor would bring it up to $300. They also are trying to throw in a wire harness, saying mine is all hacked up, and that it will run $728 for the harness (don't ask me, i'd rather wait for the "possible" damage than replace something that's still fully functional and looks all hacked up.) The only thing that makes me ready to bend over and take it in the ass is the week long headache the car's been giving me. I'm gonna talk to a few more people while my car is still silent and see what i can come up with for replacing these damned cylinders.

About the cops... umm... usually cops don't show up to the scene that quickly.... but when my job is across the street from the police station and city hall, where they had to hear my horn blaring to know end... they send someone to it pretty damned quick. Funny to think about it... The restaurant alarm goes off, and it takes the cops 45 minutes to react, by that time i've opened, checked the place, and reset the alarm. But when it comes to my car alarm, they come before i get back from taco bell down the road... lovely fucking service.

For 300 bucks I'd just disable the security system. ;) The 728 for the harness sounds like them trying to keep the lights on in the place or buy the owner a new summer home... Thats a real stretch.

My horn is such a big pussy, that I don't think it would bother anyone... but for your situation, definately ditch the stock security system for that price.

My horn is such a big pussy
My horn is a bigger pussy :p
When I lay on the horn, it changes tones. :banghead:
It sound like it is dying. :rolleyes:

It would cost the whole sum of about 30 minutes to permenately disable the factory alarm without having to shell out big bucks. As far as the ignition harness, I have no idea why they would want to change it unless you do have a lot of bare wires hanging and such. Nothing what an hour of work with shrink wrap, solder, and 3m super 33+ tape couldn't fix.

Harness they want to charge me a little over 700 for... on my invoice, they call it the Etacs system, claiming it was damaged by improper installation of the aftermarket alarm.
Originally Written by Satan's Bitches
OWNER STATES ALARM SOUNDS @ WILL
DEALER INSPECTED HAD TO DISCONNECT NON-FACT ALARM TO PERFORM DIAGNOTSTICS. CHECKED FOR CAUSE OF ETACS PULSE.
REMOVED AND DISCONNECTED ALL TAMPER SWITCHES AND BODY WIRING FROM FUSE BOX. FOUND ETACS SHORTED DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION OF NON FACTORY EQUIPMENT
I asked them if it's possible for them just to disarm the factory alarm, and they said if they did that, then i would lose my power door locks, windows, and my lights. I don't know if this is true or not, but either way, i'll find a way around it without reaching $300.

Cant you just take the damn fuse out :dunno:

Wouldnt be much of a security system if you could disable it by pulling a fuse ;) But you never know. Just unplug the horn. There are two, I have always assumed one is for the steering wheel buttons, and the other is for the alarm. One of mine got unpluged working on the car. The horn doesnt work but the alarm still does. So I assume that one is for each.

Well heres the funny thing.... i pulled the anti-theft fuse, and the horn fuse out, but my alarm still went with no difference. I'll try unlplugging the horn though, at least that will stop the sound part of it... but the lights are gonna puzzle me as to being able to get around those.

Is there a control box for a factory alarm... like under the dash or somewhere.

My car only has 1 fuse for the horn, and it will silence the factory alarm. Once you get to your car, can you disable the alarm and drive away? If so it shouldn't be a problem until you get it fixed.