Cost of vinyl interior wrapping.
riceroni
03-12-2004, 03:12 AM
Typically, how much would it cost to wrap the interior of a car in vinyl.
i'm thinking the sun visors, dash, center console, and part of the door panels. no seats. if it's not too expensive, i might do the inside roof and moonroof.
i just experimented with painting some of the pieces, and it does look good, but if i scrape at it with my nails, it will come off.
i'm thinking the sun visors, dash, center console, and part of the door panels. no seats. if it's not too expensive, i might do the inside roof and moonroof.
i just experimented with painting some of the pieces, and it does look good, but if i scrape at it with my nails, it will come off.
riceroni
03-13-2004, 03:20 AM
beep beep
93DXon18s
03-13-2004, 11:13 AM
lol i am redoing my 93DX interior with gray tweed which i spent $28 shipped for 6yds x 55inches, and then i spent another $4 on the adhesive to attach the tweed..............$32 i spent to redo my interior and it looking professionally done
lkailburn
03-13-2004, 03:55 PM
lets see some pics of the tweed interior
heroonthaline
03-15-2004, 09:49 PM
Well first off are you in an area thats accessible to getting vinyl then its gonna be cheaper if not you gotta add in shipping costs. With that being said and if you can get it easy, to do what you metioned, then your looking at about 60-75 bucks, thats with getting the adhesive. Your best bet for adhesive is 3m spray can adhesive which runs about 8 bucks a can, you can find it at a Lowes Store or at a local Hardware store. The thing is though, with doing your doors and dash, your gonna need a lot of spray and tons of patience. I did my doors and its extremely frustrating trying to get all of the vinyl flat to the door with out it bubbling up. To get the best results and to get it as smooth as possible, use a hairdryer which will allow the vinyl to stretch. Mine looks ok but I'm gonna do it over again just for that reason that it bubbled up. Hope this helps and good luck
lkailburn
03-16-2004, 12:06 AM
don't use the 3m spray.. it will release over time and heat..especially heat. use something like DAP contact cement.
heroonthaline
03-17-2004, 01:12 AM
Is the contact cement a lot better? J/W cause when I redo mine I want to use the best stuff...3m has worked ok for me and that was what was recommended to me, but yea I would like to know if that cement works well
lkailburn
03-17-2004, 01:27 AM
yes i hear the contact cement is MUCH better. i keep hearing stories about how the 3m super77 and even the 90 will release over time, and when exposed to heat(ie sitting in your car over the summer) so a majority told me contact cement. i picked up a little pint size container and a 99cent brush and this is what i'm going to use when i wrap my amp rack with carpet, and my door armrests and center console armrest with vinyl.
Phat_Jax
03-17-2004, 10:25 AM
Contact Cement is the ONLY thing to use if you want vinyl, tweed, carpet, etc to adhere to plastic or wood properly. That's all I've ever used because it is the best.
Contact cement can wear down over time, but only if you lay the vinyl wrong so that it is constantly pulling away from the panels.
Use the contact cement, wrap the panels loosely starting in the middle or wherever the sharpest angles or curves are first, then wrap around the panel and adhere some to the backside. Make cuts in the vinyl on the backside (which are perpendicular to the edge of the panel) where needed to relieve tension against the panel and vinyl...the LAST thing you want is for the vinyl to have tension spots. Then if you're anal like me :sunglasse , take some model-quality superglue (the thick variety with the activator spray can), and use it on the backside of the panel along the edge of the vinyl. Make sure you do this only after you have test-fit and are happy with the piece...as once you apply the activator this stuff DOES NOT come off... *lol*
And watch your fingers too, idiot I used to work with glued his thumb and finger together with the stuff...there's a special 'deactivator' you have to buy to get it to dissolve. :icon16:
Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions
Contact cement can wear down over time, but only if you lay the vinyl wrong so that it is constantly pulling away from the panels.
Use the contact cement, wrap the panels loosely starting in the middle or wherever the sharpest angles or curves are first, then wrap around the panel and adhere some to the backside. Make cuts in the vinyl on the backside (which are perpendicular to the edge of the panel) where needed to relieve tension against the panel and vinyl...the LAST thing you want is for the vinyl to have tension spots. Then if you're anal like me :sunglasse , take some model-quality superglue (the thick variety with the activator spray can), and use it on the backside of the panel along the edge of the vinyl. Make sure you do this only after you have test-fit and are happy with the piece...as once you apply the activator this stuff DOES NOT come off... *lol*
And watch your fingers too, idiot I used to work with glued his thumb and finger together with the stuff...there's a special 'deactivator' you have to buy to get it to dissolve. :icon16:
Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions
filipnoy85
03-17-2004, 02:52 PM
Hey riceroni, try repainting your pieces. But this time remove all the old paint, sand the peice, wash it off with soap and water, apply a paint promotor and a clear coat. It should help the protect it from scratches better.
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