Caliper Stuck...HELP!!!

I have a 1991 Chevy 1500 2wd with 42,000 miles on it,i bled the brakes and added new fluid about 3 months ago,well it started to pull to the left when applying the brakes, and today i smelled brake lining,well...i felt the front RIGHT wheel and it was hot,i took off the wheel and the caliper won't release,i can beat it open but then when i push on the brake it locks again.
What could this be?
If indeed i need a new caliper installed what kind of money am i looking at when the "stealer" goes to repair it?
Thanks!

The problem is in the caliper bolts, they sieze to the caliper, causing the brake to drag, or lock in position. I am pretty sure there is an update for those bolts, if not, take the bolts out, clean them really well with a wire wheel, and re-install them with plenty of copper-coat high temp anti seize. I used to do fleet maintenance on a lot of these trucks, and this was a common problem. Do both sides while you are at it, and, take a wire "bottle" brush and clean out the bore that the bolt goes through as well. This, in addition to the never seize, should allow the caliper to float as it was designed to do. Good Luck

Those calipers are pretty cheap and easy to change if you need to anyway.

ya the calipers are cheap and if uve already taken em off before theres only the hose to disconnect and its off. Instead of beating the calipers open....use a c-clamp and squeeze it open...just a tip :)

i had the exact same problem with my 88 k-5, it was the slider bolts

It's always the caliper piston, rarely the bolts.
Allow enough time, the caliper freezes solid.

It's always the opposite side of wheel pull, the one that's frozen.
I remanufacture them on the vehicle in that condition to better than new.
It's not that difficult.

Replacing pads, and pushing the piston back on it's own corrosion to make space for the pads is the main cause.
The dust seal does not prevent corrosion. Just keeps most of the mud out.

The piston is exposed further to moisture moving out to make up for pad wear. They work just fine being the square piston seal o-ring down behind the dust seal is riding on the remaining clean rear half of piston.
But shove it in like a ton of people do, will get this result everytime.
Pushing rust and corrosion onto precision fit seal.

The next thing happens is corrosion gets under square o-ring groove, and O-ring to piston fit no longer allows piston to move back on it's own.
This extreme heat with caliper locked on to rotor will then damage it also.
It's possible to damage bearing seals as well from excessive heat.

Always pull back the dust shield and check lower side of piston. Clean off the rust before pushing piston back into caliper bore. Apply teflon grease.

Push the piston almost out to clean it. Or all the way out, clean caliper complete and bleed system. The O-ring groove as well in the piston bore.
Remove bleeder screw, use small drill bit to clean out the port, Antisieze the threads. Now it can be serviced in the future without breaking off the bleeder.

Or just replace calipers in pairs at every pad change and have no hassles.
Along with fresh rotors, and clean bearings. On rear wheel drive applications w/o front wheel drive.