Remove/Replace Brake Rotors

I have a 528i with 55K miles and it is in need of pads and rotor turning (at a minimum). I intend to do the job myself. What special tools are needed to remove front and rear rotors??? What is the pre-load/load torque settings on the bearings??? Why doesn't BMW sell a service manual????? Who invented pantyhose??? And Why?????????

taongisurvivor
1997 528I
55K miles
Electrical problems too numerous to count

Taongi-
I recommend the Bentley manual for your car. I got mine from Amazon.com for $43. It's well worth it.
BMW does not sell a service manual because they want you to bring your car to the dealership...although I'm sure they do publish a service guide for use by their mechanics...in their dealerships.
As long as you're doing all of that work, why not transplant the rotor and calipers from a 750? You'll be glad you did, as long as your wheels are big enough.
Allen Gant Senior invented pantyhose in 1959.
http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blpantyhose.htm

Flunky

do the job yourself,all you need is a couple of screwdrivers/a set of allen keys,and some spanners.as far as i know there is no need to disturb wheel bearings,as the discs are held on by allen bolts.plus you wil;l need some sort of tool to rewind the rear calipers inward(clockwise)a good pair of vice grips should do it.

Hello again, Taongi-
I think you'll find Carl Bernstein's opinions and information on the subject of brakes quite useful. His site also includes detailed instructions. He recommends replacing the rotors, NOT having them turned.
When you buy the parts from BMW, you get a life-time warranty...and he says the brake parts aren't that expensive. Since you might have other problems which might cause the rotors and pads to warp and wear again very soon, the warranty ends up being very useful.
Here's a link:
http://www.garageboy.com/bmw/brakefaq.html
Good luck!
Flunky

Hello,

I would recommend buying NEW rotors and never turning them. The thinner the overall metal space, the more likely chance the rotors will warp and you will get an uneven rotor wear and brake pedal vibration, much less, a safety issue. You can find OEM, it is very important to order OEM rotors and pads, BALO is the type of rotor, Jurid, Pagid are the type of pads. You usually can find brand new rotors online that are even much cheaper, or at least the same price of turning a set. For me, it is simply not worth the few bucks to save, since 1-you drive and brake everyday, 2-my safety and my life are not worth it. BMW focuses on the feel and the performance of the brakes, one of the best aspects of owning a BMW. With that being said, there is always a price to pay, but these days, I don't think it is that much more expensive to service a BMW than a normal VW or say Toyota, when taking it to the dealer.

What your need.
A set of allen keys (Theres one allen bolt on the rotor to hold it on and 2 on the brake caliper)
1 Flathead screw driver. About the length of your hand (wrist to finger tip) should be good, just know the bigger the screw driver the less force you have to apply.
16mm socket or wrench for the caliper bracket bolts. These usually take some force to get off. I siggest getting a wrench and connecting another wrench to it for more leverage. If you dont know how to conect wrenches heres a brief explaination. You take the open end of one of the wrenches and you fignure out how it goes into the closed end. Might take a little while to figure it out if you never done it before but it will help you.

Ok now for dissisembly.
1. Take your screw dirver and put it into the brake viewing hole in the caliper, it should be an ovoal shape. Pry on the rotor so it pushes the brake piston back in.
2. Remove the dust cover caps on the caliper bolts. And the clip that holes the brakes in. Its on the front and connects to the brakes. Take a screw driver and put it between the clip and the rotor and pry it towards the back of the car. Warning if could shoot out at you so put your hand over it and hold it down enough so it wont pop out at your face.
3. Remove the 2 caliper hex bolts and pull your caliper and brake pads off. If they do not come off or are hard pry in the same area that you did to get the clip off. Now of the outter brake pad seems to be stuck on the caliper, sometimes they get on there. Take your screw driver and put it under it and pry it out. For your inner brake pad that has the clips on it, one side (most likely the driver side) will have a brake sensor wire which you have to remove off the inner brake pad. Take your screw driver and just push it off. You will need a new one of these to do your brake job. I dont think its a part that pep boys will have so you might have to get it from the dealer. Just ask for a brake sensor, if they say whats that tell them its the wire that senses when the brakes are low and rubs on the rotor.

4. Now take your 16mm and remove the 2 silver bolts that hold that bracket on. Throw the bracket on the ground to remove some of the brake dust so you dont have to inhail it.

5. Now take out that small hex bolt that holds the rotor on.

6. If you pla on keeping your rotors you dont want to do this next step but it does get the rotors off. Take a hammer and beat the rotor to death untill it comes off. Dont be afraid to use all your force hitting it. It dinks up the rotors but it gets them off.

7. Now replace your rotors and put the small hex screw in. If you get the rotors fromt he dealer they should give you 2 new hex scres, one for each side.

8. If you dont have any anti brake swueel spray or anything ask from some when you go to the dealer. They might give you a little eye dropper bottel with some black liquid. Just follow the directions on it.

9. Let that liquid dry on the pads (dont put it on the brake part, put it on the metal part) WHile the liquid is drying start putting everything back together.

After you have your rotor on, then yoru bracket. Then put the pads into the caliper and put the caliper on and bolt it down. Then put in your brakse sensor wire. It goes on the inner pad. Then your brake tie down clip that goes on the outside and your hex bolt dust covers.


Also I forgot to say these before but after you pry the piston in you are going to have to squeeze it in a little bit more. You could use a C clap, big pair of plyers, big pair of vise grips that look like this [ ]
/\ < these are where you squeeze

Also witht he brake sensor wire just follow it around and your find a little black box with 2 wires going into it on each end. There are 2 little clips on it that you pull a bit with yoru fingers and pull the lid off the box. Its pretty common sence how you unplug the old sensor and plug in the new one so Im not going over that.

Anymore questions just ask.

Quick question !!

I just did brakes on the 97 528i and BRAKE light remains on. Do I also need those wear sensors replaced before the light will go off or is there some type of reset I can do?

Hello- I have 1997 528i with 300 miles left on extended warranty. I have a horrible high pitched whistle when idling heard best when in covered drive through. Dealership has had the car 3 times and 3 excessive checks from me *still have problem. I don't have tools and/or skill to repair myself. Any suggestions on repair and replacement of anything before warranty runs out??? 143,000 miles, original owner, second BMW THANKS!!!

I have replaced Pad and sensors front and back but brake light is still on. Am I missing something or does it take sometime before it goes off?

turn the key all the way on (Terminal 15), the spot where all the lights in the cluster are on but the car hasnt been started yet. After 15 seconds the light should go off.