cuderbone

Well I have A 86 civic si w/ moon roof just rebuilt just about everything on the block new rings ,bearings,honed cylender walls , polished pistons, machined head new vavles and guids and just about every other thing i can think of and now my car will not stop smokeing i tried to give it the nicoret patch lol jk
but i cant get the car to stop smoking....also my number one vacume box when i clamp the hoses the car should idle funny but nothing it runns with or with out it.... welll some one chat back.... :smokin:

Finally someone else with an 86. Mine's a Civic wagon.
On new internal parts and a smoking engine,there's lots to say.
Are the plugs dirty?
All of them, or just a couple?
How much oil are you losing?
If it's a noticable amount, you may have something in your Emissions piping that's sucking the oil out of the crankcase.
If you didn't install those little rubber Valve stem seals, that's the problem!
You could have installed the Oil rings wrong. Gaps in the wrong place, etc.
Did you have somebody check the Piston and rings with a mike or feeler guages. The holes might be a little too big for the Pistons or rings.

In the Factory, when they start the engines for the first time. (This may sound a little cruel) the throttle goes right to 2000 Rpm and stays there for several minutes.

The engineers tell me the reason for this is to burn off the high spots in the Rings, Cylinder walls, bearings and etc.
Apearantly it works.
If you take it easy on the engine. Let it idle or run it slow, you take a chance of storing up a lot of Carbon in the rings, which inhibits the function of the rings and you get a lot of blow-by and burning oil.

So now, you have to get the compression guage out. With the engine warmed up, throttle blocked open, make a 'Dry' compression test, and then a 'Wet' compression test.
You will see a difference, but a large difference may indicate a bad Ring/cylinder fit or carboned up rings.
Check the plugs so you get a hint at which cylinders are acting up.

well i am getting a little build up on the #2 plug i am thinking i need to rehone the cylender walls i did it once but i dont think i did a good enough job the head has new valve seals and guides all the rings i made sure to put them on the proper direction ofsett and all now you may be right on the gap i did check alot of the gaps but i might have to get different rings after i honed it the first time...it is great to have a forums like this to talk shop with ppl ......thanks for the chat

In the Factory, when they start the engines for the first time. (This may sound a little cruel) the throttle goes right to 2000 Rpm and stays there for several minutes.

The engineers tell me the reason for this is to burn off the high spots in the Rings, Cylinder walls, bearings and etc.
Apearantly it works.
If you take it easy on the engine. Let it idle or run it slow, you take a chance of storing up a lot of Carbon in the rings, which inhibits the function of the rings and you get a lot of blow-by and burning oil. this is a very important step called breaking in an engine, it is important with a new engine and EXTREMLY important with a rebuilt one since all the rings and bearings have to conform to the worn in shape of the cilinder walls and wahtever else has had moving parts. if you skip this you will probally have troubbe with burning oil. it this is what has happened its hard to say how much damage (if any) has been done. i would suggest u get a can of Bartol (something like that, just an oil thickiner) and run with that for about then next 300 miles or so and see what it is like then. if it is still troubblesome then do what u said about re honeing and new rings.

tahnks for the heads up i though about the thiker oil but was not to ure about that
you think big rig oil will work lol

well Bartol is not just a thicker oil, it is supposed to make seals expand and a bunch of other bs, it is pretty thick stuff, kinda like honey. its not something to rely on long term, just till the engine is broken in. how many miles have u put on since the rebuild?

i cant drive it too much oil is being burned looks like I set fire to my mom or something........lol
i tried to drive it but it is to smoky

what color smoke is it?

thick white....

thisk white smoke means one of two things, a bad seal between the head/block and the head gaskit. this could be caused either by a warped head, poorly cleaned surfaces, scratched surfaces, or an unproperly torqued head (ie the proper torque sequence was not followed) to fix this you have to pull the head off, make sure it is not warped and make sure the two surfaces are clean and unscratched and put it back together (when i replaced my head gaskit last year i used Permatex MotoSeal 1 Ultimate Gaskit Maker on both sides of the gaskit because i did had some of these problems). the second thing that might cause this is a cracked head which means you need a new head. rule of thumb, white smoke is coolat/antifreeze, blue/grey smoke is oil

i just took the head to a shop and had it lead tested and machined as well as new vavles ect....
i know the head is good the block surface was really clean .

how did u clean it, what sequence did u use to torque the head?

i used the sequence out of the shop book that i have for the car as for cleaning it i did a number of thing to clean it and make sure it was smoth

well i'm quite sure that it is your head gaskit in some way or another, somehow a lot of water is getting into your cylinders which is causing the white smoke. i know that it is not oil because oil is always a blueish grey, never white. you may just have to pull the head and have a look for the tell-tail signs of a leaky head gaskit. only other option is a cracked block which you really dont want.

i am going to try the thick oil thing first

ah. i said that before i knew it was white smoke, for a leaky gaskit it will do nothing.

i see

check radiator for oil (scum floating at the top) If you can push air into the cylinder at tdc compression stroke look for air bublles in radiator

just be glad u dont have to do a ring job. :)

check radiator for oil (scum floating at the top) If you can push air into the cylinder at tdc compression stroke look for air bublles in radiator
oh, rite, thanks for bringing that up, i just had a brain fart. one more thing you should look at is the oil, pull off the oil cap and have a look at the bottom side of it and look inside, if it looks grey and foamy there is water in your oil which means a leaky head gaskit.

and thats a mofo