B16a SiR2 Help!

Ok,

Now i have a 94 integra LS...Has no engine in it right now...I'm looking to swap a B16a SiR2... I want to change all the internals, So i can run 1 to 1 1/2 bars of boost saftely without any problems...Question is...what all do i have to change on the internals? I know pistons and rods...would i have to re-sleeve the block or no? I would love to talk to someone that has done this...its much easier than posting on the internet...But please, if someone could help me out, that would be great...thanks!!

Don't get a B16A for that, start with a B18B, more displacement for the heavy teg. Plus the blocks are cheaper, and since you are going to have to replace everything inside anyway, why spend the extra.

Jcrx, you know quite a bit about all this, and im glad there are people like you on here...but back to the topic...
If i get a B18B would i be able to push 300+ to the wheels?? Also, as for replacing everything inside...what all needs to be done to hold high boost...Pistons, rods, springs...?? High boost is like no more than 25PSI...also, isnt a B16a alot better to boost? I know B18s have alot or torque but low hp..anyway, get back to me if you could, thanks!

First off, to run boost that high you HAVE to sleeve the block, period. Second, compression ratio isn't nearly as important as you fuel/ignition tuning. To flow boost like that, you're talking about serious internal work in the head and block, and sacrificing streetablity. In other words, won't be a streetable vehicle.

Alright, well forget the 25 Psi then, Lets just say a well maintained...300 to the wheels, i know thats reachable...so, no matter what, resleeving the block is a must, bc i dont want to run a little 8-10PSI tops, i would like that to be everyday... I basically want my car to have balls to beat the mustangs around...i hate those kids!!

You want to give stangs a run huh? Get this setup and give Vipers a run for their money...

98 B18B swap
9.0:1 JE 81.5mm
crower rods
STR block guard
crower 402 cams
crower springs and retainers
GTP porting
rev hard cast manifold
STR intake
850cc injectors
ferrea comp valves
innovative T3 60-1 stage 5 turbine 4 bolt discharge
tial 40mm wastgate and BOV
AEM cam gears
Hondata 2b
clutchmasters stage 5
Jun chromoly flywheel
quaife LSD
MSD 6al, blaster ss coil
DMH performance 3 in Ecutout
factory honda DX exhaust
greddy profecb
Walbro 255 intank
AEM fuel rail and reg.


Yes this is an actual motor with a video to back up the Viper annoying.

http://www.cheesefrog.com/frog/cheezevsal.mpg this video is all over, not sure what psi he is running, but it's high, and apparently that Viper isn't stock either, something about easy 10's.

Now thats an amazing setup...and that vid is crazy! Anyway, i doubt that that setup could be reached within' a 5g budget right?? How well could i do with only 5gs??

I would rather get my engine turbo ready, so when i do boost it, i wont have to take apart and upgrade everything...so im sure i can do that under 5gs right?

5gs? doubt it, but if you do the labor, and search around for the parts you could get close.

Don't get me wrong, you can build or boost for under, but the levels you were originally talking are beyond the 5g mark.

Alright, i really appreciate what your doing for me here...Lets start back at the beginning...I have 95 teg, sittin in my garage...needs a engine, engine of choice :B18b ODB2(97+) Now what internals?? I plan on doing all this myself, i have to learn somewhere, and i have quite a bit of time, i have till next summer...Wont i have to upgrade axels or no?

Start on the list above, research some of the parts, prices and specs. I am going to bed, just got back from the bar, and am tired.

alright, thanks again!

hey jcrx, i have heard some bad things about those rev hard manifolds, something about unequal length which is had at high boost... any thoughts?

Alright i have a 4 door civic which I have been building for 6 months, here's the prices i got:
b16 A2 Engine swap = $ 2250
t-4 Turbo $ = 1500 getting pieces is cheaper than buy the package.. Labor including engine $700
Stroker Kit w/ 9:1 compression = $2000
Turbo Cam Shafts = $ 600
AEM cam gears and Unorthadox pulley's = $ 550
Venom Fuel Injectors = $230
AEM Fuel rail, regulator, filter, BBK fuel pump= $445
Msd Ignition box i got = $80
Nology wires = $150
MSD blaster and coil = $100
Block Gaurd = $80
Titanium Valve springs, valves, retainers= $550
Labor $300 and head gasket set $300, so the grand total was $9835 dollars, and all the labor i got from a very smart friend so my cost were a hella lot cheaper than companies. If you get back to me i will beable to tell you what i run @ the race on the 27th... but i Love the b16 and thats what i would go for if i were you

and when jcrx said that the b18 is cheaper, i disagree, i went for the generation 2 which is more expensive, but you can get the generation 1 which is only $1100 and you can build that to be a beast, make sure to you to www.japandomesticmotor.com here you will find the engine you want...

and when jcrx said that the b18 is cheaper, i disagree, i went for the generation 2 which is more expensive, but you can get the generation 1 which is only $1100 and you can build that to be a beast, make sure to you to www.japandomesticmotor.com here you will find the engine you want...
Disagreeing with me, when you obviously have no idea what you're talking about is not smart.

1) The 94 Integra LS is a heavy sucka, and a B16A doesn't have the torque to move it, that is why Honda put 1.8 liters in them.

2) He already has a B18B, so why the fuck would he spend MORE money, to by a weaker (yes it has more Hp, but refer to topic 1) motor? When he can for the same fucking price build his already existing motor up to murder? HUH?

3) Do you not understand the concept of OBD? Do you know what OBD is? Have you ever heard of a hydraulic transmission? Have you ever heard of a cable transmission? Do you understand the concept that the two are very different and don't work together? Let me let you in on where I am going with this. The 94 teg uses a Hydraulic tranny, and is OBD I, the cheaper first gen you mentioned from said website, is A) OBD 0, and B) has a cable tranny. So buy the time he converts to a cable system ($250-$500) so he can run his B16A cable tranny in his hydraulic car, he is down some cash, "oh, but he has a B series tranny already so he could just use that" , yes ok technically he could, BUT the LS tranny has horrible long gears, that work on a 1.8, but are straight dog on a small 1.6 and would be sooo slow in that heavy teg, it wouldn't even be funny, then he is going to have to make the motor OBD I compatible, this means buying a OBD I intake manifold with injectors, MAP and TPS, and an OBD I distributor or have a fun time trying to rewire his car with the new motors plugs into the old motors harness. Oh, and if he is somewhere that has to register and smog his motor, guess what? MOST of the time it is illegal to use an older motor in a newer car because of emissions.

So on that note, I am going to bed, please don't hand out anymore of your advice, someone might take it and wind up taking it, and spending a shitload more money than if they did things THE RIGHT WAY.