86 crx si oxygen sensor

Alright, I did a search but didnt find what I was looking for, so anyways my 86 crx si idles like shit, I was looking around and relized that the oxygen sensor was unplugged and hanging down from the header so what I need to know is where that other end of the oxygen sensor goes. Also if the oxygen sensor is unplugged then shouldnt it be throwing a code? Any pics or info would be greatly appreciated! I am so close to getting my car so that I can register it, so I NEED to know. -chelsie

yes if the O2 sensor is not pluged in it could run bad the senser has a wire that comes out of back and then you have the plug run it under the distibuter housting and you should have a wiring harnes there that leads to the fule rail and to the distibuter there you should find a plug for the O2 sensor just remeber it only fits one way i hope this helps getting your 86 running ... :smokin:

Okay thanks QuackerStacker! I was able to find the O2 sensor plug in, but I plugged the O2 sensor in and it had no effect on the car, it still isnt throwing a code. The tach jumps from 1000 to 2000 RPM's, and it smokes white smoke out of the exhaust system, I dont know what to do next. any more help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

how much white smoke, like enough to fill your neighbors yard or enough to make a small stream out of your tail pipe?

The oxygen sensor should be replaced, end of story.
Buy a new one for $40, which is what you would do anyways before getting the car smogged. And yes it shoudl throw a code when the senor is unplugged, when the car is running.

Is the tach jumping, as in engine rpms jumping, or just the tach itself is bouncing? Is the engine rpms are bouncing, check for incorrect timing or no coolant in throttle body, if the tach is jumping alone that means u have a ignition problem.

i have the same problem with my 86 si i had to end up getting the cyclender wals bored due to wear on the pistons and walls and was burning a ton of oil as for the rpm it owuld be wise to bleed the colling system the top hose of the radiator should go to the block where it connects you should see a neck and a 10mm drain plug that is for the cooling sys you can open that and just add water till you see no more bubbles....other than that you might end up having to rebuild the block do you have a EW4 motor just want to know...

yes there is enough smoke to fill the neighbors yard and the RPM's are jumping with the tach. So, if it doesnt throw a code for the O2 sensor then does that mean that the O2 sensor is bad? or that there is another problem? I just bearly rebuilt the top half of this motor (EW4), I had the bottom end looked at by a mechanic BEFORE I started the rebuild to see if it was worth fixing and was told that it would be fine. When I bought the car it had a snapped camshaft and seised head bearing so, I got a head from the junkyard (along with all brand new gaskets), fixed the problem, drove it around the block, ran fine, and then I go to start it the next day and the RPM's jump and it smokes out the neighborhood (before it did smoke a tiny bit). And then just the other day I pulled the spark plugs to change them and they are covered in oil......so thats pretty much it, thanks for all of the help so far! MORE HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!

the idle problem could be the water in the radiator make sure that you bleed the coolant where the top rad hose goes to the head you will see a neck and a lillte bleeder vavle try to bleed the system as for the smoke did you do anything to the cycls or the walls ...

alright, one more question, is the smoke white and smell like coolant? (kinda sweet smelling) my guess is that it is, if this is the case your head gasket did not make a proper seal. this would explain the oil on your spark plugs (basically oil is leaking into the cylinders through the joint between the head and the block) and it would explain white smoke (steam from your coolant also leaking into your cylinders). what you can check to know for sure is your oil, pull off the filler cap and have a look inside and at the bottom of the cap, if it looks grey and foamy there is water in your oil caused by a leaky gasket. in that case you have to replace the head gasket (ask more about that if you are unsure on proper technique)

if it is blueish grey smoke and smells like burnt oil it is oil and that would be caused most likely by bad piston rings but you said you had the bottom end checked out so i would not suspect that

I bet if you kick it it will work or throw a 12mm wrench at it hahahahaaa ok so it never works

ha ha ha.....well the head gasket thing seems very logical to me and that is going to be the next thing that I am going to check but I do have another question, could it possibly just need to be driven around and heat up a little bit to seal the head gasket properly?

very unlikely, when a head gaskit leaks there is no way to stop it, re torqueing the head bolts mite get you a little bit but it won't fix it.
some more questions for ya, what procedure did u do to put the head on as far as torqueing the bolts, not doing it right will get you into troubble (i did it wrong the first time and it only lasted 7000 miles).
what did you use to clean the two surfaces, did u use a chisel or anything sharp?
was the head machined so that it was true or is there a chance it is warped?

what happened is I bought the car for my sisters 16th birthday and was trying to get it running in time, so I had the head milled down because it had came off of a car that had blown a head gasket and I knew that there was a chance that it could be warped. The old head gasket was scrapped off and the new one was put on with some kind of gasket glue. anyways, we didnt get it running in time and when my sister got it then my idiot step dad told me and my friends that we couldnt touch it! he pulled the head back off and re-did the job, so I am not sure how he put it on the second time, maybe that is the problem, I guess it wouldnt really seal a second time. Is the car okay to drive in this situation or is it bad for it? (I know it cant be good)

sorry forgot one thing, we actually torqued it wrong the first time and only torqued it to 22 then started it, it seemed to run fine......but after reading about it some more, than I relized that it had to be 22 then 48 so that is what it is torqued at now. those are the right specs right?

ok, why the hell did your step dad pull it off??? well i'd say the seal is no good and you will have to do the job a third time, using some kind of gaskit glue is good because no matter how true the surfaces are you are still puting 2 old parts together that have heated and warped differantly over the years so when they get warm whey will not alyays expand together. make sure you get a new gaskit too. the 22 and 48 is the right way to do it and remember to use the torqueing right patern in the manual (from the center out i believe). oh, and driving now would not be good, besids the fact that you will have a huge clowd of steam, once the coolant gets too low the engine will just over heat and probally warp your head.

alright well that looks like the problem then. I know my step dad is an ASSHOLE!!! thanks for all of your help, I'll keep you updated.

alright, Im going to tear it down this weekend so is there anything else I need to know? besides the head gasket, could the head bolts be the problem? we used the old head bolts and I have heard that they can stretch. could it be a bad bottom end bearing? I just want to know what I am dealing with.

i would not suspect teh bottom end for anything unless you are getting really low oil pressure and even then it's an entirely different job so i wouldn't worry about it, as far as head bolts i have read that they do cause problems (search the tech (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/f1041) forum for a thread called "One time use head bolts?" or something like that) but i myself have had no problems with this and i have re&re'd my head twice now with the same bolts.

Edit: i found the link to that thread
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=154246&highlight=head+bolts

Damn your good! Thanks for finding that for me. I guess I am going to take the head off and hopefully fix the problem, so I'll keep you posted.

i have used my head bolts many times but i have had one or two break from to much use

if it was a 1-wire universal boche )2 sensor, which it shold be for $40, you need to solder the wire, otherwise the impedance won't be right. It may or may not generate a code, but it will cause idle problems.