Voyager low fuel light and chime

The low fuel light and chime come on when my '97 Voyager is over 3/4 full and I go over bumps &/or turn sharply. The gas gauge is accurate. I have seen posts on the web but no solutions to this (common?)problem. The beeping is driving me nuts, so does anyone know a cure or how to disable the chime?

Someone must have the cure for this problem... or know what wire to cut to the chime. Please help me solve this.

My 96 T&C drove me insane for several months. Then one day, the guage went to 1/2 full when I knew that it wasn't. After a couple miles, the T&C stalled while cornering. Car restarted immediately and problem went away for months. The problem recently returned for 2 tanks then stopped. The 96 will show a code and shutdown engine if guage reads incorrectly for a time or distance. Sorry for the war story. Most people claim that it is a faulty sender in the tank. I have been advised not to use Shell gas. Shell uses a lot of additives and may effect the sender. I read on an Alfa Romeo site, using Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the gas (2oz/5gallons) to clean/lube senders. I am doing that now. Guage is quiet.

Good Luck,
(that chime will push you over the edge)
Ray R.
96 T&C, 99 GV & 94 Buick Regal

I used to own a '97 Voyager and had a similar problem with the low fuel light and chime. My wife, son, and I were in Arkansas visiting family during the winter. On the day we left the low fuel light and chime started acting up. After several days being back in Alabama it just suddenly stopped and never had a problem with it again.

Ok, this is a strech but,

About 4 years ago,I used slick50 gas treatment in my '96 grand Voyager and a 90 daytona. Both fuel guages starting acting up in the same way. the odd thing was on the voyager, the guage read half full and the fuel light and annoying Bong came on. The daytona just read full until it had gone about 10 miles and then read empty and the bong and light came on. After I used the tankfull of gas,I took the sender out of the daytona and wiped a greasy sh1tty stuff off the sending unit resistor, and all is still working well, but I won't put that sh1t in another car, ever.
The Voyager was cured after 2 tankfulls of gas, without removing the sending unit (the tank in the Van's a pain in the ass to remove!)
Suprisingly enough, I usually warn people away from using sh1t like the slick50 stuff anyway, but not this time...

Take this for what it's worth, but that's what I saw with my own two eyes. Both car and van sending units and pumps are still ok.

This problem is still driving me crazy. Any new information regarding a fix would be deeply appreciated

M-
Did you try the marvel mystery oil?

Haow about a door/rear hatch sensor triggering the chime?
Or a bad body control computer??

Slantsixness

M-
Did you try the marvel mystery oil?

Haow about a door/rear hatch sensor triggering the chime?
Or a bad body control computer??

Slantsixness
Yes, I did try Marvel mystery oil - No Luck.... My next move is to check out the body control computor. I don't think it's the sender since sometimes the gauge drops to empty and turning the key off, then on, resets it.

similiar problem on my '99 Dodge Grand Caravan. I filled up with Gulf hi test(super, i guess they call it). I usually use regular, but my mechanic says to fillup with Hi-test every once in awhile. I was driving NYC to Washington D.C. NO problem. On the way back I decided to tank up before the start even though I still had 1/4 tank. After the fill-up this time with regular, the low fuel light, chime and erratic guage needle started, stopping after it got down to about 3/4 full. I then filled it up with high test (Hess) and of course the blinking low fuel light and ding-ing, erratic gas guage started again.
I will see if burning regular gas will let this pain go away. Sorry to make this sooo Long
stated again.

My problem is opposite of yours. My fuel low light is on and the chime is not working so with the lights on reminder, key in ignition system, etc.

On my 93 van, the chime going off while driving was caused by the limit switch on the sliding door.

Open the door a little bit and look at the back of it. You will see a little limit switch. I rolled up a piece of paper and taped is on hte door where it mates to the switch.

A dealer checked the Body Control computor, re-calibrated the fuel gauge, but the problem still exists. Anytime the tank is above 3/4 full and I make turns, the gauge drops down toward empty, low fuel light comes on, and the chime dings. This thread has been viewed by over 600 people - doesn't ANYONE know the solution to what must be a common problem?

A dealer checked the Body Control computor, re-calibrated the fuel gauge, but the problem still exists. Anytime the tank is above 3/4 full and I make turns, the gauge drops down toward empty, low fuel light comes on, and the chime dings. This thread has been viewed by over 600 people - doesn't ANYONE know the solution to what must be a common problem?
I spent several days looking into the problem. I have been listening to the chime for over a year. After looking at the forum questions and responses with no real answers I traced out the system from the fuel pump forward, there were no shorts or bad grounds and the wiring is pretty direct. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem is gone. The old pumps has a sliding contact that eventually wears a groove in it, so that when you make a turn, or go over a bump it temporarily looses contact and it chimes.

I spent several days looking into the problem. I have been listening to the chime for over a year. After looking at the forum questions and responses with no real answers I traced out the system from the fuel pump forward, there were no shorts or bad grounds and the wiring is pretty direct. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem is gone. The old pumps has a sliding contact that eventually wears a groove in it, so that when you make a turn, or go over a bump it temporarily looses contact and it chimes.


I think I'll try to disconnect the chime - will this screw up the computor and does anyone know how to do this??

I spent several days looking into the problem. I have been listening to the chime for over a year. After looking at the forum questions and responses with no real answers I traced out the system from the fuel pump forward, there were no shorts or bad grounds and the wiring is pretty direct. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem is gone. The old pumps has a sliding contact that eventually wears a groove in it, so that when you make a turn, or go over a bump it temporarily looses contact and it chimes.


I have been trying all kind of things as well. I want to try your solution. Is the fuel pump located inside the gas tank? How did you go about changing it?

Thanks.

I have been trying all kind of things as well. I want to try your solution. Is the fuel pump located inside the gas tank? How did you go about changing it?

Thanks.
It's an easy one to do- it's in the tank. Just wait till the tank is almost empty, place a jack under the tank with some sort of board to support it so you don't dent the tank, loosen the to bolts that hold the tank and lower the tank a few inches so everything is easy to get to and CAREFULLY remove the connectors and retainer ring and it's out. It only took less than an hour and no more ding,ding,ding. I purchased the ful pump at Auto Zone for $179.00 . The fuel filter hooks up at the tank so you might as well change it while you're there.

drive by MPG,not by the Feul Gauge......and install a 500 Watt or Better Stereo system....that's what I DID!