Changing Brake pads

Can someone offer information on how to change the brake pads on my 2000 chev silverado. I'm going to go with the ceramic pads, just not sure on how to change them and what if any other steps need to be taken exp. (bleeding the brake system, tools needed).....

I used to work at Meineke, so you do no thave to bleed the brakes just to change the pads, thats only if you take off a line, hose, caliper, etc... to change the pads you will only need basic hand tools, probably like a 15 mm wrench, take the caliper off and use a c clamp to push the piston back into the caliper, put your pads in and dont forget to use some kind of stop squeek on the back of the pads, i like crc from napa, it is orange in a little bottle,if you have the caliper off it might not be a bad idea to have your rotors turned, it will help any vibrations and help your pads last longer, most any brake shop will turn them for maybe 20 bucks, just take em off and take them to the shop, i hope this helped and i hope you read it cuz i have never typed this much at once before LOL

Before you get started, save yourself alot of grief and buy a $17 Chiltons Manual, it is very informative, and it gives you the ability to map out the job before getting started.

As mentioned before, you should machine the rotors before installing new brake linings, brake pads go through a (Lapping) or burn in period and this is very important for brake longevity.

Never allow the calipers to (HANG) from their hose's.
Never push old brake fluid back up the system, this could KILL your ABS modulator, the brake fluid inside of the calipers is contaminated with brake dust. When I push my pistons back into the calipers I like to open the bleeder just a crack with a hose attached and dump the old brake fluid into a container. Don't walk away with the bleeder cracked this could inavertantly drain your intire system, crack it when your ready to push the piston in, and close it when done.

If the new pads come without spring clips "buy new"
Make sure you clean and lube the caliper's sliding Pins, I have heard and read of all differant types of lubes used on these i.e, silicone grease, axle grease, high temp wheel bearing grease etc. I personally use 1800deg copper antiseize, but I also have a tub of it!

Consider bleeding the intire brake system with fresh brake fluid when you get done with the brakes, as the old fluid slowly becomes contaminated with water etc, use the same type recommended by the manufacture, don't drop silicone based fluid into your system as this will not get along with other types of brake fluids.

Let us know what you think about the ceramic's.

-Mike

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate the responses. Anymore...???

I learned something a month ago. This only really concerns getting the rotors off on the rear. The factory bolts that hold the caliper bracket are nearly impossible to get out..they have so much loc-tite on them. I busted every freakin knuckle I have gettin em out..even the impact gun wouldnt move them.

Yeah, tell me about it. I cracked a socket trying to break those damned bolts.

Put a little heat to the top of the bolt, it softens the loctite. This is for the bolts that secure the caliper mount bracket to the spindle, NOT the ones that secure the caliper to the mount bracket.

Do not use petroleum based lubricants on rubber brake parts such as caliper slides. It will eventually swell the rubber and cause binding problems. There are synthetic lubricants available specifically for parts like these.