f5m33 and f5m22 differences?

Here is the deal. This is my first venture into the world of DSM, I just purchased a 90 talon tsi 2wd. The previous owner said he recently changed the tranny, clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing but the clutch wasn't releasine all the way after the change. I immediately thought either the master or slave was bad so I replaced the slave and rebuilt the master. Still no complete release. After pulling the tranny and changing the clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing myself it still wouldn't release.
Now my memory is kicking in, I noticed he had a parts car in his back yard that had the 1.8 SOHC in it. What I think has happened is that he used the tranny from that car. I know it isn't an exact fit but is there a way to make it fit? Could I change clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and starter? Would I have to change all of these parts or jsut some of them?
Also, Is there anyway I can tell which tranny I have just by looking at it?
Is there an easy way to distinguish one from the other? I'm asking this because I can't reach the gentleman I purchased the car from.
If 1.8 uses a different clutch and flywheel should I also switch to the ones for the f5m22? (I just installed one for a turbo f5m33)
Could this be caused by the linkage? If it is the linkage could I still be able to go into the correct gear? (I can shift using a rev-matching method, I have the most trouble pulling out or stopping)
Would the linkage keep the clutch from releaseing? I understand that it could make it feel like the synchros were bad but would it actually keep the clutch from releaseing? (the car definitely continues to roll when clutch is depressed)

any help would be greatly appreciated
jeremy

Sorry I have so many questions but I need this car to be on the road, my bronco II just died on me...

Jeremy;
I can't get over the part about the clutch not releasing. This is a simple mechanism, and my thinking is that regardless of which trans you have, you are hooking up a hydraulic line to a slave cylinder, and it in turn is pressing against a fork which is leveraged against the throwout bearing. So, there are only three things I can think of:

1) Is the clutch pedal adjustment right?
2) Are you sure all air has been bled from the line between the master and slave cylinders?
3) Could the release fork be worn to the point that it can't push the bearing?

On item number 3, I'm thinking this could be the pin the fork pivots on, maybe the hole in the fork has worn egg shaped or something? Or.., maybe the fork has worn where it contacts the bearing?

You might want to try having someone push the clutch pedal in while you are under the car so that you can watch it to see if it is shifting around.

Mark

MrZ,
Thanks for the reply.
I know exactly what you mean when you say it is a simple mechanism, that is why I'm at such a loss.
Pedal is adjusted to the specs if haynes manual.
I went through a half gallon of fluid bleeding the system.
The think the fork and pivot ball are probably where my problems lie after doing some research last night. With the pedal up the end of the fork is more to the passenger side of the car where from what I have read it should be centered or slightly toward the drivers side. I think I'm going to put a washer behid the ball making it come out further/ This should allow more throw in the bearing so the clutch can release. I've read quite a few accounts of others having this problem and shimming as a solution.

Any other ideas?

thanks again
jeremy

whiskeyman;
I can't really visualize putting a washer behind the ball, it doesn't sound right to me. If you can do it, you will definitely need to use a hardened steel washer, but I still don't think that sounds like a good idea.

What about shimming the slave cylinder itself? I'm trying to remember exactly how it bolts on to the trans housing, and I really don't want to go out and crawl under my car at the moment to see.

What you're describing on the fork position doesn't sound quite right either. I wonder if it is the right fork for the trans, maybe that part came off of another trans.

I know it's a real pain to pull the trans again to really get a good look at that fork, but it may come down to that. You want it to be right, because that one component will see a lot of use in the months and years to come.

Sorry I coudn't be more help.

Mark

Did u ever fix your car? And if u did what was wrong with it. Becasue my 95 eclipse gs-t is doing the samething.

Bobby

CoburGST - Welcome to AF. Please check dates on threads before posting. This topic is 7 years old.