She cranks...

she pops, but she won't fire up and run. Checked all the grounds, plugs, etc on my b16a swap and but I can't get it to run. It is getting fuel, I changed the filter and there was gas trickling out of the fuel lines. Any ideas?

Got a code 6 on the ecu but a temp sensor shouldn't stop it from running....or should it? Ohms read 4.2 on the sensor and 2.6 on the plug. Disconnected battery a couple times but code is still there.

do you have the distributor hooked up correctly (wires to sparks in correct ones)? is your timing correct? and no a temp sensor should'nt stop it from running, but I suggest you replace it VERY soon.

try some starting fluid!!!

The same problem happened to me. My problem was the distributor was 180 degrees out of time. in other words upside down. that may be your problem.

Plug wires are where they should be, did the timing belt again: hash marks on the cam sprockets were lined up, both sprockets were in the "UP" position, lined mark on crank with housing, rotor was pointing towards #1, started belt from crank to tensioner then to h2O pump then to cams, 3 teeth couterclockwise, tightened tensioner....still no go.

If the ecu only flashes once and never again then I'm wrong on the code 6, I think. After initial flash i get this code over and over: 1 long flash then a decent pause then 6 quick flashes. 10 & 6? 1 & 6? 16? I suck at this!!!!!!!

thats a code 16.

code 16 fuel injection guess what...no power to injectors. I have power from the "A" ecu harness to the plug (16p) in engine bay but lose it at the injector harness, resistance of each injector is 2ohms manual states 1.5-2.5
I currently have the heated 4-wire O2 sensor spliced (inline, no butt connector) into power supply line (yell/blk) before the 16p plug, sensors heats up nicely. I removed this splice, temporarily electric taped the yell/blk wire and still no go.

Looks like bad injector harness, or least bad power line in the harness? Is the injector harness off my HF motor compatible? Is the way I had the 4-wire O2 alright?

OK let me start over. Last reply was the first I ever used a multimeter and I took a couple false readings....i'm an idiot. Now that I'm edumacated...I have resistance and voltage where I need it. A1,A3,A5,A7 wires all tested good from the injector to the ecu...no breaks. I also replaced the ect sensor since I had already bought it. The ecu code goes like this: flaaaaaaaaaaaash _______I can count to 4 during this pause_______flashflashflashflashflashflash. Even with this code shouldn't the car start? Is there anyway to tell if the injectors are squirting? Will it hurt anything if I turn the dizzy 180 and dont need to? Help!

Plugged a noid light into all for injector plugs and all 4 lit up so the ecu signal is getting to the injectors. Tried to turn the dizzy 180 degrees but only the left side of the shaft went all the way in. Right side there was about a 1/4" gap between the dizzy housing and the mount. I could have probably got it flush by tighening the bolt but not sure if that would mess anyting up. Any other ideas as to why she wont start or where to look next?

Turns out I have a broken wire. After changing Main relay and trying to start the car I touched the drivers side door skin and got a nice little shock. Talked with previous owner and he said there was repair work done to the drivers side door and surrounding areas last June. A few months after the body work he was having trouble with the battery running out of juice. So I'm looking for a wire in that area that is fuel delivery related hence the code 16.
fyi...you can't turn dizzy 180 out on a b16a

good luck had same problem with mine,crx b16. it wouldnt start it just went clack! once then nothing it was a faulty wire. check the fuse box in the back there are a lot of wires there and take the panels from the steering wheel off and chek the ignition wires.