Ground Wire Systim

DOES ANYONE KNOW ABOUT HYPER GROUND OR ANY OF THESE OTHER GROUND WIRE SYSTEMS ...THEY CLAIM THAT THEY GIVE YOU +5 HP+4-5 TOQUE I TALKED TO A MECH...AND A ELECTICIAN AND THEY BOTH SAY WITH A GOOD GOUND IT'S POSSABLE DOES ANYONE HAVE OR KNOW ABOUT THIS SHIT PLEASE RESPOND

Plus Also Suposed To Help Throttle Response And Deliver A Smother Idle

If your car has shitty ground, it will help... but likely not.

LOSE THE CAPS PLEASE

First the 5 hp -- possible but probally like 2-3 hp
And do these work --- HELL YEA
Try it, it will work, and it will help the idle a lot from what i have heard.
You can make your own, just goto home depot and pick up some 4 gauge wire, and some connectors. And make your own.

But I would like to know (if anyone here does) what is the best way to hook them up (ie.. battery ground...to ... alternator ground... to ... ) I know they should return to where there started (i think) like make a full circle.

BTW, i know there are a lot of people on 2gnt that have done this, and they have LOVED it.

whos got the rescipe for this like the way to route them .....i can get the 4 gauge ire and connecters?

This is where I found out how to make my own kit and ground it.

Ground Kit (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75889)

^^^ thank u

Next question: Are the alternator, and starter ground points the same on the gst and gs.

thanks afterhrsplayer did it make a difference?....hey ashah00 we got it .......i knew someone had to have it !

O yea and i have seen people go crazy and make it 1 gauge wire, that probally adds 20 lbs to the car. :p I think i may use 2 gauge for the alt ground and starter ground. (maybe not, im thinking about it)

yea i think i'm just goin to use the 4 gauge fuck it i hope this shit works ill do it this weekend ......

Well, on my car, it made my throttle response a little better and my lights brighter. But on my friends 91 GSX, he said that it made a big difference. He's also running a sound system in his car and the headlights don't dim when the bass hits like they use to. Glad that I could be of some help. :smile:

You guys have a rough figure for how much money a 15ft 4 gauge cable costs?

I wonder if this would help me out with my alternator noise, hmmm... :)

Thanks for the link afterhrsplayer.

There are a few reasons this could help. I think the biggest would be that the spark plugs ground to the head, then the block. So if the motor isnt grounded well, you wont get as much spark current as you could. That would explain the couple extra HP, and the increase in throttle response.

Since a turbo car has a lot more trouble with the ignition system giving a good spark (plug gaps, wire quality, plug material, etc), you could stand to gain more. I may test this theory some day. I've been thinking about making my own ground straps and seeing if it helps the occassional misfires I get at high boost...

Speaking of spark, I either had spark plug blow-by, or bad plugs because I would get misfires under boost and load. It isn't happening since I replaced them today, but if it does.. it might be the plug wire arcing to the head (not that great) :)

i got that msd ign.and it seems to work fine mitsubishi are known for that everyone i talked to said that it's happin to theres and the coil is only $80

i got that msd ign.and it seems to work fine mitsubishi are known for that everyone i talked to said that it's happin to theres and the coil is only $80

Can you tell me a little what that is and what it does? Thanks

Hey amdsoldier i sent you a pm about that exhaust, did u recieve it.

I think some poeple are too quick to jump into upgraded ignitions though. After all, people are running stock ignition systems right into the low 11s, high 10s... Theres a happy medium after all. I would run stock ignition into the 11s, then think about an upgrade. With unlimited money? Sure, get it over with early...

at the audio store i work at i can get 4 gauge wire for $1 a foot! and 1/0 gauge for $3 a foot, i used 1/0 gauge when i put my battery in the trunk and that seems to work out pretty good!!

Any one know if the grounds are in the same place for the NT and the turbos.

I doubt it, since everything including the battery is on the opposite side of the engine bay ;)

if your talking about off the battery then no, they are not the same, n/t connects to the strut tower or whatever its called that you mount your strut to... and on the turbo model it connects to the firewall right next to the battery! and if your talking about the block, well its just a cable that mounts to the firewall, its pretty close to the same spot on each vehicle!

so for n/t can you just use the diagram that he gave use and just reverse it and mod it so it fits i don't see what's the differnce since they all need a ground on the groundkits on ebay and hyperground they all connect to the - batt. some just don't connect to eachother ..as like a juction.....so as long as you got the sequence they you should have it right ?

Why buy a "ground kit" for God knows how much, when you can go to www.mcmaster.com and buy everything you need for cheap money. I'm going to try this in a week or two. I Can get a 2 guage crimp tool from a buddy I used to work with. I'l need a few feet of 2 guage wire, and half a dozen lugs.

I'll run one from the battery to the firewall (body ground). Another from the battery to the starter bolt on the tranny (starter/motor ground). That covers the stock stuff. Then I'll run another from the starter bolt to the head, and maybe one to the block as well. That should cover everything.

You can even get some real nice ground straps from Summit for a decent price, and you can specify anything from a foot to 5 feet if I remember correctly.

I have heard that you should not crimp wire that thick. You should solder it, better connection, dunno if it is true. But yea I will probally goto Home Depot and buy the wire, yes they sell 4 gauge wire. I think i will do this soon...

You cant really solder wire that big. It has so much heat sink mass, and is such a good heat conductor, its nearly impossible to get it hot enough. Maybe with a propane torch, I dont know. The "correct" way to do it is with compression lugs. You tighten a bolt down on it to secure it physically and electrically. Much like the terminals on a good stereo amplifier. This is what code requires on all industrial electrical equipment. I used to build these systems, and we would attach wire up to 750 MCM (think baseball bat diameter) in this fashion. Good for 1000 HP electric motors good enough for me. You can also get these lugs from mcmaster.com, but it will be a messy install since they are a bit bulky :) Crimping will be fine, but only if you can find the correct crimpers (look like massive bolt cutters) with the correct die for the gauge wire/lug you are crimping. Mcmaster sells the tool and the dies, but notice that the tool is over 1000 bucks. ;) Thats why I'm glad I can get it from the place I used to work at through a friend. Some autoparts stores will sell the impact crimper for 2guage since its a common size for battery cables. Its just as good as the 1000 crimper, if you know how much to crimp it.

Some autoparts stores will sell the impact crimper for 2guage since its a common size for battery cables. Its just as good as the 1000 crimper, if you know how much to crimp it.

Thanks for clearing that up. Do you know how much an impact crimper usually costs, im trying to do this cheap. And how much are you supposed to crimp it.
Thanks. :)

Anyone know if batt relocation kits come with the crimper, if so i know someone that may have one :smile:

what componets should be the ones to ground ?

I mentioned what components I'm going to ground above.

I was looking more into the crimpless lugs and found these. Go to www.mcmaster.com and go to page 686. Part number is 6923K33. A buck each and accept 8-2 guage wire. They sell 2guage wire but you have to buy 100 feet, so I'll get that locally. No need to worry about crimping anything. The battery relocation kits do not include a crimper. There are several different styles of lugs that will let you set it up the way you want. Generally I like to have the wire fill as much of the lug as possible, so get one that has the "maximum" size that matches the wire you are going to use. I'll be using the above part number for 2-8 guage wire, with 2 guage. For the grounds to the head and block though, I'll use 4 guage. Actually I like the straight tongue version better, like part number 6923K33. You will likly have to enlarge the hole in the lug in some cases with a drill.

So even if you run 5 wires your only in it for 10-12 bucks on lugs and whatever you can get the wire for. My starter positive wire is banjaxed (arcs to the block/head), and my battery to firewall calbe is shyte. So rather than get new ones from Mitsu I'm going to make my own. I'll even splurge for some nice car audio style battery terminals, since the typical soft ones always shit the bed after a year or two.

A nice piece of mind project, for short money too. :) Probably do it next week.