Where's my suspension?

just wanna know who is the better choice for street/strip type suspension. i definately want coilovers all around, torque arm/panhard in rear, tubular k-member/arms in front. definitely going with 9" rear, mostly for the strength and easy gear changes. having just learned how to adjust both an 8.8 and a 9" myself in shop class, i don't wanna screw around with changing the whole carrier every time. besides, 9" rears are alot easier to service when you're lying on your back in a dinky little garage =)

Stangnut86 for mod!
LOL, humm that would put me out of a job.

LOL, humm that would put me out of a job.


Good!!!! no1 likes you anyway :loser:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/6784banning.jpg


Big tough Mod!!! Always threatening with the ban :rofl:

haha, seems my joke with the mod thing went a little too far =P

still, the point of this thread was to help me pick my suspension, so let's please get back to the point :biggrin:

thanks =)

haha, seems my joke with the mod thing went a little too far =P

still, the point of this thread was to help me pick my suspension, so let's please get back to the point :biggrin:

thanks =)
Nah, dude it's all good. LOL

Anyway, Tokico 5 way adjustables and MM chassis parts. I really don't think a 9" is necessary, but if you like it then go for it.

MM

I love driving my Stang:)

hehe, highflow is prolly the best mod i've seen yet, he never bans anyone.. can't get any better than that.

as for the suspention coil overs are sweet but i still say you can't beat the feeling of letting off the clutch, going into fourth, and feeling the whole car lift up.. ah....


anyway, highflow has a good suggestion if that was you like.

haha, seems my joke with the mod thing went a little too far =P

still, the point of this thread was to help me pick my suspension, so let's please get back to the point :biggrin:

thanks =)

Screw suspension let the hi-jacking of the thread continue! :grinno:

Anyway suspension street/strip...... torque arm/panhard is not what I would do. Although better than stock for strip it's RR stuff but not the best drag racing set-up.

well, if tq/panhard isn't the way to go, then what would you suggest? keep in mind that this car will easily produce between 5 and 6 hundred horse, and probably at least 50 more tq =). those may end up being @ flywheel figures, but that has yet to be seen.

oh, and i like coilovers because i feel they give a little better suspension geometry, and can easily be adjusted to a greater degree than adjustable control arms.

First rule of a strip car lighter cars go faster. So going a tublar k-member and a-arms are fine cause it drops weight. But the money spent by for MM R&D for optimal wheel location and change suspension geometry is wasted cash on a street/strip car. You want the lightest tubular k-member(chromely) that should be ya choice. Coilovers are fine for a street/strip car.

As far as the back the stock Ford style suspension has no issue with going in a striaght line so there is no need to spend the money to re-invent the wheel like MM does in the back. MM is a great road race/street car set-up but for the 1320 you can save some money and get better ET's sticking with the stock 4 control arm set-up. Here there are two roads and I guess it gets into how much you know and how serious you are. This decision is for wether or not you want adjstable set-up and just how adjustable you want to go. Adjustable is great if you understand what you are doing. If you don't you'll do more harm than good. For the novice I would go Steeda's lightwieght drag solid lower control arms and good set of adjustable uppers with 3 degrees pinion angle preload.

First rule of a strip car lighter cars go faster. So going a tublar k-member and a-arms are fine cause it drops weight. But the money spent by for MM R&D for optimal wheel location and change suspension geometry is wasted cash on a street/strip car. You want the lightest tubular k-member(chromely) that should be ya choice. Coilovers are fine for a street/strip car.

As far as the back the stock Ford style suspension has no issue with going in a striaght line so there is no need to spend the money to re-invent the wheel like MM does in the back. MM is a great road race/street car set-up but for the 1320 you can save some money and get better ET's sticking with the stock 4 control arm set-up. Here there are two roads and I guess it gets into how much you know and how serious you are. This decision is for wether or not you want adjstable set-up and just how adjustable you want to go. Adjustable is great if you understand what you are doing. If you don't you'll do more harm than good. For the novice I would go Steeda's lightwieght drag solid lower control arms and good set of adjustable uppers with 3 degrees pinion angle preload.

hmm. i was under the impression that MM is a bit better for drag stuff. i know you can get solid lowers for coil-overs in the back, and i can't imagine why they wouldn't have adjustable uppers. i'm just a little worried about lateral axle control, it's not like i'll never do donuts or try to drift this car =)

as for the k-member, can i just go with the one that maximum makes, or should i spring for a QA1? what about a brace? and should i get new steering knuckles?

hmm. i was under the impression that MM is a bit better for drag stuff. i know you can get solid lowers for coil-overs in the back, and i can't imagine why they wouldn't have adjustable uppers. i'm just a little worried about lateral axle control, it's not like i'll never do donuts or try to drift this car =)

as for the k-member, can i just go with the one that maximum makes, or should i spring for a QA1? what about a brace? and should i get new steering knuckles?

MM makes better at drag stuff compared to what?

Also I think you need to look at understand what a torque arm/panrod bar set-up is doing. It is a completely different rear end suspension design. Go look at the back of a 3rd or 4th gen F-body cause that is what it will be set-up like(no upper control arms). Now this is a great RR set-up but not needed at all for the 1320 and no need to spend the extra money on it.

If you really make 500HP flywheel or RWHP you will learn very quickly to respect that car for what it is or it will kill you... drifiting and doing donuts.... :nono:

MM makes better at drag stuff compared to what?

Also I think you need to look at understand what a torque arm/panrod bar set-up is doing. It is a completely different rear end suspension design. Go look at the back of a 3rd or 4th gen F-body cause that is what it will be set-up like(no upper control arms). Now this is a great RR set-up but not needed at all for the 1320 and no need to spend the extra money on it.

If you really make 500HP flywheel or RWHP you will learn very quickly to respect that car for what it is or it will kill you... drifiting and doing donuts.... :nono:

well, this thread is about MM vs Steeda, so there ya go on that...

anyway, please answer my questions regarding the front end now =)

well, this thread is about MM vs Steeda, so there ya go on that...

anyway, please answer my questions regarding the front end now =)
Well the only place it says Steeda anywhere is the Poll. Any way neither was really known for makin drag racing stuff. In the last year Steeda had made a real push towards it with some innovative products.

As far as the tubular K-member I would buy the lightest one made wether it be MM, QA1, UPR whoever..... it's all about the weight. What brace and what knuckle?

If you want drag racing parts, go with Lakewood or SSM.