hp guesses

hey guys, i just found a stroker kit that seems pretty kick ass! i myself am drivin a '97 Z28. now this kit is said to stroke my 350 LT1 to a 434. now to me this is a great mod because oh yes- it's only $1350! i've seen 383 kits for as much as $1200. but anyway, to the point of my post- how much hp/torque do you think i'd be pulling with this kit installed?

whats in the kit??? just the rotating assembly? so you would be keeping your stock heads, cam, intake, and exhaust??? i would say maybe 350hp, perhaps 390, because with those cubes, your stock everything else will cork up the engine, and make it suffocate. killing power. however, you would have an engien that would love to respond to modifications such as exhaust intake cams and heads :)

• SRP Forged Pistons
• 5140 Forged Steel Crankshaft
• 4340 H-Beam Rods
• Federal Mogul Racing Rod & Main Bearings
• Speed-Pro Rings

that's the kit.... down the line im thinking of getting a LT4 kit and that would take care of the heads and cam, i've already got an exhaust system im lookin at and intake is on order. but i saw this and i don't think im gonna pass it up. i thought of doing a 383 kit but now that i saw this im definitly goin for it.

no shit where did you find this at. and is it used. because that is way to cheap. ive seen kits like that but with hypuertechnic pistons and a nodular iron crank. you better buy that up. one thing though make sure you get the right journal size. you have small journals if your going to use the stock block. also make sure that you get one that uses a two peice rear main seal. a one peice wil ot work with your block. one other thing plan on spending big bucks on machine work. with that amount of stroke the block will definatley need to be machined. atleast boring and clearencing the counter weights. also find out if the crank is internally ballenced or externally balenced. you will have to have the correct flywheel and dampener combo to ensure that you dont shake the thing to death.

thanks for the heads-up on that stuff, hadn't given it too much thought if at all on that stuff.

do you know if there's anything i'd HAVE to buy in addition to have the kit work right/well?

well, i have desktop dyno 2000, if you find the cam specs, and airflow numbers for the heads, i can give you an estamate off that. its usually pretty accurate, and on the concervative side.

well right now it's a stock LT1- not sure on the exact numbers.....

however the company that i found the kit at matches the kit to your engine- it's kinda cool, you give them the bore size and specify type if street, strip, race or other; and then the Compression Ratio, Cylinder Heads, Cylinder Head Chamber Volume- also they ask if it's n/a or a turbo or a supercharged and if there's nitrous and to give to total boost. so i think they tune it to your specific engine for max production out of the engine. but anyway, because of this i think im gonna wait until i get the LT4 conversion kit i want because that will change a couple of those things, especially the cylinder heads.

Not to be the sceptic here, but 434 out of a 350 to me seems like a scam. Especialy not with a thin walled LT1. Just in my head I'm seeing a machine shop nightmare, .060 bore, a lot of metal cutting to clear the counter weights. How long is the stroke? How long are the rods? I would think that it would have to have a low low compression piston as not to slam them puppies into your head. World products makes a huge small block, 454 I think they go up to, but they use a thick thick block with a huge bore. Well that's my two cents. I'm not saying it doesn't exist, but if it does do you think that it would be worth it? With all the machine work to do the engine will only be worth that build, when it goes it's gone forever.

naw, ive seen the 434 before, its a .30 over 350 with a 4.25in stroke. so basicly the only things to worry about would be rod clearance and modifying the block and stuff like that. but the wall thickness should be ok.

i would also expect that you would have to commision the use of an aftermarket oil pan, when you rebild the motor you would need new gaskets, cam bearings, why not go ahead and do a cam, then youll prolly need to get your PCM reconfigured at like a dyno tuning place, find out if the rods are stress relieved, balenced, pistons also on the balencing, you want your whole rotating assembly to be as close to each other as possible. i know ppl who but 3 sets of pistons, weigh them all take out the 8 that are closest to eachother and send the other two sets back. you could also find the lightest one and match all of the other ones to that but who wants to grind on new pistons. oh yea if you have an automatic then u'll need a stall converter of sorts.

oh yea what is the name of this company and where is their site id like to check them out

http://www.hawaiiracing.com/ - here's the website... it seems like they might be either new or not too well known- that's just the impression i get. but anyway, they got some stuff that's worth a look, and they've got it for a lot of cars.

here is what i would do. i would collect he parts and build a separate motor. once you have the long block put together then swap it out. this enables you to drive your car while you are building it. this relieves the stress of time constraints. and give you time to research different building methods, cam head selection, and compression ratio. it is very possible to build a well balenced pump gas 500hp small block with the right combonation. it is also possible to build a $5,000, 350 hp pig motor. if you would like suggestions on some proven combonations let me know. i havent built a small block with that much stroke yet but ive been close. 409's and 406's mainly. i did look at that site and that seems to be a heck of a deal. i would definatley spend the extra $200 for the balencing that is worth it. it would cost you more to do that even if you had a friend at a machine shop.

thanks for the advice- however i don't really have the money to build another engine; scrapin together to build up the one i got... would it work to basically stockpile all the parts: stroker kit, LT4 conversion etc. and then all at once change everything out and basically do a rebuild with all the performance stuff? i don't know, just tryin to figure it all out.

i think thats a pretty good game plan, if you got the patience for it. it would be more work to pull the engine for one set of mods, and then a couple months later have to pull it again for the second set of mods. plus, if the car is your daily driver it wil reduce the amount of time it sits in the garage in pieces. finally, the parts as a whole out perform the parts as individuals, so throughin them all in together will make it seem like a bigger improvement, thats just an asthetics reason though...