Faster Acceleration

I have an auto transmittion (ya i know, dont give me any shit please.) How do I accelerated faster when I start at 0? I dont have any mods or anything, but just wanted to see if there are any tips or secrets that you know that can make accel a little faster.

If I turn off Overdrive, will it make acceleration faster? I am asking this because if I am on the 4th gear, and I am accelerationg, the rmp doesnt go up that high. If I turn overdrive off, and accelerate on 4th gear (i am not starting on 4th gear, I am moving) the rmp jumps higher, near 4 or 5. I know that our cars have the best torque at around 4800 or something like that, so if I am going on 4th gear, turn off overdrive, and have my rmp rise, would I accel quicker or no?

With auto tranny, it is more effiecient to leave the overdrive off until higher speed ( let said 40 mph ) Overdrive off means the car is running at 1st to 3rd gear, turn on overdrive then it will run at 1st to 4th gear.
Power is more direct from the engine to the tranny with overdrive off, and it also provide engine braking when you slow down.
When you start from 0, the quickest way to launch is ( I believe ) have the overdrive off, left foot step on the brake, and the same time put you right foot on the gas, rev it to above 3500rpm ( don't rev too high, don't rev for more than 10 sec or you will burn your torque convertor ), then let go the brake. This actually the way they drag race with auto tranny.
At freeway speed, you can turn off the overdrive when you want to acelerate, but the more direct way is push the gas pedal all the way to the floor, the tranny will automaticly "kick down" to 3rd for full aceleration.

the best way to acclerate the fastest from a dead stop is to mash the gas pedal to the floor. i have an auto too, again no cracks. whether or not u have the OD wont make a diference b/c u always start in first gear puttin OD on jus lets u change from 3rd to 4th gear.

ok i jus read kennys post. i assume u dont have auto kenny b/c in an auto u cant hold the brake and rev it up to 3500 rpm. it only lets u go to about 2000 or so then it jus stops. so the easist way to accelreate fast is to mash the pedal to the floor.

If you hold brake, and then press accel, its not really good for the engine i heard. because your engine wants to go, but your stopping it the wheels. i dunno, anything else?

besides buying a turbo the only way to accel fast is to mash it too the floor. its the only way to accelerate from 0 the fastest

That was why I said "I believe" in my post, and that is why I said you don't want to rev it too high and too long, but it will not hurt your engine, it will hurt your torque convertor if you do.
Power does flow more direct from the engine to the tranny with the OD off. That is what I learn from school, but if you ask my the reason, I really don't remember.
For what I posted about acelerate from stand still, that is the way drag racers do with auto. There is some aftermarket torque convertor that has higher "stall speed (?)" ( again I don't remember the term but it means the maximum rpm you can rev with the car stands still and in gear )
And no I don't have an auto, I can't leave with one. Buy I drove tons of them. And I do usually notice a difference with OD on and off. Really, try that.

well one of my friends has an auto G, and i've driven it.... HARD lol... ssshh ;)

but the best way to get any power out of the thing when you're stopped is... drop the thing to 1st gear... and turn off overdrive...

floor the thing and watch the rpms sore... once the thing hits 6000 or so... shift to 2nd, no need to let off the gas either... again once the thing climbs back to 6000 rpms... shift to D, this will bring the car into 3rd gear.. then once you're around 4500 to 6000 rpms... turn overdrive back on to let the tranny shift to 4th.....

:devil:

yeah but thats not good for the tranny. the engine will rev high by itself if u just floor it. itll shit at around 7000 in first and about 6500 in second and about 6000 in third. whther or not u have the OD makes no difference. the car is starting in first gear going throught the next 2 then when its nessecary it shifts into fourth.

Mash on it. Or, if you want to possibly break some stuff, and if your car will allow you to do it, rev it up while in neutral, then quickly shift into drive, or first. Not the smartest thing to do, but hey...I've seen it work*











*It also busted up an indestructable buick.

I have an auto G and what i do from a stop is i take off overdrive drop it in 1 and then mash it to the floor and take it to redline and put in 2 and it will be right in the power band and it will pull hard to redline again and then put it in D and it will be right in the power band again and then when it gets close to around 6800 or so hit the overdrive button and it will be just about in the power band. The trick is to keep it in the power band when you shift. By the way my redline is 7500 rpm.

Originally posted by pimpin da G20
drop it in 1 and then mash it to the floor


In most cases unless you have some performance "goodies" in your engine, you are a lot better of giving it about 3/4 throttle,waiting till you get up a bit higher in the revs before giving it full throttle through the rest of the changes.

Mashing it to the floor can "bog" the motor a little from stand still.

Use your Gear start at 1 then move to 2nd 3rd like a Manual ,, I know it sucks but its the best way,,,, + if you want faster Acceleration go with a Super Charger NOT a turbo... Superchargers Acceleration, Turbos top speed easy..

From a standstill, leave it in drive and turn the overdrive off and mash it.

For drag racing, same thing but apply your brake and gas pedal at the same time and release the brake pedal, i say rev it up around 2k+ but don't leave it their for a long time, bad for your torque converter.

On the high way, just leave the overdrive off, thats it.:flash:

if you want faster Acceleration go with a Super Charger NOT a turbo... Superchargers Acceleration, Turbos top speed easy..

it is impossible to make a generalization such as that, and it is in no way a fact...

Gotta agree with b-boogie on that one. I don't know what your're talking about but care to back that up with some imperical data?

A supercharger start to work at lower RPM than a turbo, thats why it gives more instant acceleration!

Well, who can argue against proof like that! A small/med ball bearing center turbo with the proper trim and housings on a high displacement engine will spool almost instantly giving instantanious acceleration too. However it will cost you in the upper rpms as back pressure will become problematic.

There is a 200SX SE-R that I've read about. He has a T3-04E BB turbo and at about 1/4 throtle in second or third he claims the car will burnout! Turbo technology has come a LONG way since your assumption was invented. Basically you're still incorrect and I'll take a turbo anyday for any contest of speed. It all depends on what you want...you just have to spec the turbo properly.

Supercharger is belt driven so it takes up some of the power from engine to operate. Turbo is exhaust driven so it doesn't takes up power. So when turbo kicks in (let say usually around 3000 rpm), it can pull a lot harder than supercharged. Unless you don't use you mid/ top range at all. Some cars nowaday use two smaller turbos ( one on each exhaust manifold on a V-shape engine) instead of one big one, and boost can start earlier and smoother.
And also.....no one make supercharger for SR20DE yet, as I know...

Just curious, I dont think I have seen this before. How different are the 1/4 mile times between a Standard G20, and a Automatic G20, same year, no mods?

If you want faster acceleration. Just do this. Looks fast anyway!http://www14.freeweb.ne.jp/motor/ehp11/off19990926/photo05.jpg
G-Forces - you are probably right about the turbo/supercharger thing. I was talking to a guy who has put both a turbo and a supercharger on his Primera. Intercooler for the turbo is hanging off the front, and intercooler for the supercharger sits on the top. Its f*$k*n quick and cost him a small fortune to install. He told me that his supercharger was for the low RPM range, and he has a huge turbo for the upper RPM. I guess you cant get much better than that.:angel:

So whats the best way to accelerate from stop, without adding any chargers or turbos? some people say u can start at 1, then go to 2, then D, the OD. some say just floor it. some say turn OD off then floor it, so I got like 3 of 4 choices here. which one works best???

fastest way to accelerate is still foot-to-peddle-to-floor! :sun:

Stick it in 1...little bit of revs....floor it if you want to and change to 2 at the rev limit and the same through the rest of the changes. It makes no difference if the O.D is on or not with you foot flat down. The only diff it will make is when you are in D and you are going flat out with revs well up, then turn the O.D on to cut the revs back.

you could always install a new torque converter. just a thought.

Does adding any kind of car fluids (stuff you can buy off a shelf at a store) increase performance on a car? Anything that might increase how the car reacts and pulls from start? thanks

Try using a nice synthetic oil like Mobil or Royal Purple...it might help. Some people say the car 'feels' faster after they switch to synth. I'm not saying it will but it's something to try.

After all who cares if it IS faster as long as it FEELS faster...right guys! :D

I've heard pouring a bottle of fuel boost can help in increasing the fuel rating. Never tryed it myself though.

I usually get my oil changed at my Infiniti dealer. I dont think they use Mobile, but I would like them too. Do I tell them to poir only Mobile in, or do I have to buy it and give it to them or what? What do I tell them?

Some dealers and even places like Speedy can be real pricks about using diffierent oils and don't like you bringing your own. Personal recommendation is to change it yourself. It takes a minimum time and tools and the satisfaction of a job well done is worth it. If you don't like dirtying your hands just call your dealership and ask them.

Oh yeah which brings up another point. Oil filters. Please tell me everyone here uses either the standard Nissan/Infiniti filter or a Mobil filter. They have a drain back valve standard and some of the cheeper brands *cough*fram*cough* don't, and that could effect the longevity of your motor. I know they cost more but please...it's your motor we're talking about.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by enzo@af
[B]Mash on it. Or, if you want to possibly break some stuff, and if your car will allow you to do it, rev it up while in neutral, then quickly shift into drive, or first. Not the smartest thing to do, but hey...I've seen it work*





hehe i did that wheni used to drag my old 86 sentra auto... it worked... untill i had to get a whole new tranny, aiya!

yeh, the fastest way to get up to speed on an AT is to rev the engine up to about 2k-2.5k with your left foot on the brake. as the light turns green you need to time your right foot to the floor exactly as you let off the brake. you want slight wheel spin. leave the gear in D, let the AT shift up on its own. donno about OD, it doesn't seem to make any difference on 1-3 gears. (could be wrong as shift mapping does seem to change).

a lot of MT drivers suck at shifting (not that I'm saying that any of you here suck :D ) and found that AT sometimes accelerate faster than MT. gahahahaha!!! to you bog shifters. gahahaha!!! :D :D :D

..but again, the AT on our P11 is very sloppy compared to other AT's Ive driven. if you wanna drag, get a MT and learn how to shift. getting a AT looses about 20hp to the wheels just from that.

Hmm.... interesting topic... I've owned both an automatic G20 and a 5-spd G20 (current car)... The auto is slower off the line, but I could get better reaction times... G-tech testing showed that just mashing the gas is the best off the line (instantaneous G's measured by passenger), and the O/D didn't make a difference, and the shifter button (power/touring I think) didn't make a difference, if your foot was down, it'd go all the way to redline :D I also noticed on both cars, a good way to increase throttle response is to tighten up the throttle cable as tight as it'll go (with a little slack so it's not holding the throttle open of course). that makes a big difference in off the line feel of the auto and my shifting on the 5-spd too. With the cable tightened all the way, ripping gears is much easier (ACT clutch helps alot too :D ). BTW, I never really did an auto vs. 5-spd 0-60 or 1/4mi. comparison... BUT... I know my 5-spd is quicker off the line and it feels quite a bit faster in first. However, once into second it's even money, except for maybe the weight difference between the auto and 5-spd cars... 80lbs i think?

Wow, that was long :D

yeh, auto's tend to loose within the first 1sec of the drag race. one would probably need to get a bigger faster motor if they wanna keep dragging with an AT.

also, unless you wanna get a cheep alternative to a universal muffler to get sound and looks, keep your stock muffler. my arospeed muffler looks and sounds good, but that 0-10mph acceleration is very sluggish now. no backpressure. :eek:

Originally posted by JustinP10
[BI also noticed on both cars, a good way to increase throttle response is to tighten up the throttle cable as tight as it'll go (with a little slack so it's not holding the throttle open of course). that makes a big difference in off the line feel of the auto and my shifting on the 5-spd too. With the cable tightened all the way, ripping gears is much easier (ACT clutch helps alot too :D
Wow, that was long :D [/B]

So if I tightened the cable it would be bad for the tranny since it would rip the gears?? How do I go about tightening the throttle cable, because when I push on it, it does feel a little loose.

Originally posted by Koojo


So if I tightened the cable it would be bad for the tranny since it would rip the gears?? How do I go about tightening the throttle cable, because when I push on it, it does feel a little loose.

On my car, you adjust it right between the throttle body and the Valve cover on the driver's side (LHD). there are two bolts that are on either side of a bracket. you can losen em up, then twist em both in the same direction (to tighten up the cable), then tighten them back up real good, don't want it slipping. :D I notice that with my 5-spd G20, when i shift real hard, at the drag strip, or anywhere for that matter, the shifts are harder when i have that cable tighened. Oh yeah, on my car, it's the cable closer to the TB, the lower one is the cruise control, i havn't messed with that one yet, don't think it's necessary either, not for performance at least.

My theory on the cable is that the throttle body opens faster because there is less slack in the cable, therefore when you push the pedal, the throttle body opens almost exactly the same time, instead of waiting until all the slack is tightened up, then opening... if that makes sense. I'm not sure how this could be bad on the tranny, other than the obvious, your ripping on the gears... that's stress on the tranny. Oh yeah, if you were to tighten the cable too much, your car would idle high, among other things, and I'm not sure how that would affect everything?

first mashing the trottle will only make the auto shift in first at 5000 rpm but if you slowly and linearly hold the gas and play around to find the sweet spot you will get the engine to rev near 7000 redline maybe about 200 short. Either it hurts the engine though to neutral drop it (put in neutral and rev the engine and then switch to drive) but that hurts the drivetrain alot. the other way is to brake gas it like everyone says. it will not hurt the engine as much because just like the manual the auto engages the clutch when you press the brake or else your engine will break so the brake gas is just like the manual. Also the overdrive is the fourth gear. Because the fourth gear is less than a 1 to 1 ratio with the final gear ratio. That means in fourth gear the engine will rev alot lower increasing the gas milage but slower acceleration. If you look the first, second, and third gears are all larger than 1. Pushing the overdrive just puts the gearing from fourth to third thus the reason why the car revs alot more

kinda forgot bout dragracing with this car and thought about better things...like how to turn off the damn service engine light...:bloated:

This service lights gonna cause you to start drinking and going insane :bloated: :bloated:

have already begun to sniff exhaust fumes... ahhhhhh!!!:silly2:

i FEEEEL GOOOD!:smoker2:

i tried both ways just now, power braking to 2k rpm and not before launching. the powerbrake does pickup more speed off the line no doubt. :D man, I should turbo charge my G too, then it wont be a sisssy car.:bloated: hummm... gonna get flamed, I know it. :eek:

Originally posted by kenchan
the powerbrake does pickup more speed off the line no doubt. :D

yes it does pick up more power. The best way is to make sure that you press on the gas pedal as you let go off the brake, so you will have that full burst of power. I dont use it much, just sometimes if I want to beat some car thats next to me at a redlight, or to show off to some people standing on the sidewalk...:smoka:

yeh, I use it often (more in 1.5k rpm area) when I wanna make quick lefthand turns at an intersection from a standstill. otherwise this AT just bogs up so much torque that it's a shame. :o

you ever notice dat the AT shift knob has some play on the shift button and on the shifter itself? wish there was a shift knob that would eliminate the play. i noticed it on the other AT P11's too. if we can rid this slop, it'd be more fun to drive it around while manually holding the gears.

wonder if the new celica's shiftknob fits on our cars...

Originally posted by kenchan
you ever notice dat the AT shift knob has some play on the shift button and on the shifter itself? wish there was a shift knob that would eliminate the play. i noticed it on the other AT P11's too. if we can rid this slop, it'd be more fun to drive it around while manually holding the gears.


I havent really noticed that much play in my shift know for some reason

humm...could be that I am overly sensitive to play. i think driving this AT P11 would be a lot more fun if I could get a better shift knob that is smoother and solid.

I also have a P11 Auto and have been looking into this. The stock stall speed should be 1900-2200 rpm. To test it put on the parking break, hold the break and depress the accelerator gradually to full throttle in about 5 seconds. My rpm goes to 1500 and then slowly goes to 1800-1900, the bottom of the spec range.

This is a little low for a weak car and my dads Accord stalls at 2500 and instantly goes to 2000 and you can feel that it jumps faster at the start. The G beats it after that.

Anybody know how to reach the high 2200 rpm stall speed. That extra 300 rpm should make a noticeable difference. What effects the actual stall speed of a specific converter?

it is impossible to make a generalization such as that, and it is in no way a fact... dont go with a supercharger b/c the engine has to make more power to turn it so its making to engine work harder. In which a tubrocharger is working off the waste(air) it doesnt make the motor work harder ur not losing power for it working harder or gaining nothing but power.

Well I turbocharged the G this past July, so it helps the power!