remote starter

I have installed a remote starter on my f250 only to find that I need a relay to make the heater blower work. The manual does not show a wiring diagram and the manufacturer is impossible to contact. The relay has 5 contacts and I know it connects to two of the truck wires. Can any one help me?

i'm not sure why you need a relay maybe the starter you got is a piece of junk all the ones i've used have built in relays i'm assuming the remote unit outputs a positive trigger for the relay. okay ready. pin86-remote unit, pin85-ground, pin37-constant 12v
pin-87-heater wire, pin87a-not used. you didn't say what year the truck is but go to this website.
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ it'll tell you where the wires are. e-mail me if you need anymore help i've put lots of those things in.
good luck

I have installed a remote starter on my f250 only to find that I need a relay to make the heater blower work. The manual does not show a wiring diagram and the manufacturer is impossible to contact. The relay has 5 contacts and I know it connects to two of the truck wires. Can any one help me?
I assume that you need to hook up the 2nd accessory wire right? You need to find the (-) output on the remote start for additional acc. outputs. Then, you'll have to hook it up like this....#85 to (-) output on remote start. BOTH #86 & #30 to a fused 12v source. Then #87 to the 2nd acc. wire in the truck. You can flip flop some of those polls and you might do so if you understand the way a relay works. Oh, 87a will not be used. Hope that helps.

This was EXTREMELY helpful. Thanks!!!

OK, the heater works great which is all I really need but the keyless entry does not work at all. The manufacturer says this is a "reverse polarity door lock wiring scheme" and it requires two relays. I connected them EXACTLY (double checked and triple checked) like the diagram in the installation manual and blew the fuse as soon as I tried it. Needless to say, I disconnected the door lock feature and now, back to the drawing board.
BTW It's a 2001 F250 supercab.
Any more help?

OK, the heater works great which is all I really need but the keyless entry does not work at all. The manufacturer says this is a "reverse polarity door lock wiring scheme" and it requires two relays. I connected them EXACTLY (double checked and triple checked) like the diagram in the installation manual and blew the fuse as soon as I tried it. Needless to say, I disconnected the door lock feature and now, back to the drawing board.
BTW It's a 2001 F250 supercab.
Any more help?
Well, all of the '01 and later SD I worked on where all neg. pulse and not reverse polarity.

what kind of relays did you use?? make sure they are spdt(single pole double throw) i once tried using foglight relays(blazer brand) which are bridged between 87 and 87a assuming you have the right relays you have the switch side and actuator side hooked up backwards. did you use a test light after cutting the wires? the switch side will light up when switch is pressed. heres how the wires are supposed to be hooked for each relay.
87a-switch side 87-actuator side 37&85-constant 12v 86-negative input from unit. it doesn't matter if the 85&86 wires are reversed. the way this system works is both wires(factory) are usually grounded untill the switch is pressed so if the switch and actuator wires are reversed you have a short when you activate the relay. if your truck has a factory keyless entry it would be a neg pulse system. and you'll be hear factory relays clicking when you lock/unlock the doors. e-mail me if you need more info. hope this helps you

what kind of relays did you use?? make sure they are spdt(single pole double throw) i once tried using foglight relays(blazer brand) which are bridged between 87 and 87a assuming you have the right relays you have the switch side and actuator side hooked up backwards. did you use a test light after cutting the wires? the switch side will light up when switch is pressed. heres how the wires are supposed to be hooked for each relay.
87a-switch side 87-actuator side 37&85-constant 12v 86-negative input from unit. it doesn't matter if the 85&86 wires are reversed. the way this system works is both wires(factory) are usually grounded untill the switch is pressed so if the switch and actuator wires are reversed you have a short when you activate the relay. if your truck has a factory keyless entry it would be a neg pulse system. and you'll be hear factory relays clicking when you lock/unlock the doors. e-mail me if you need more info. hope this helps you
It wouldn't matter if you used a relay with both 87a and 87 together since you aren't using 87a anyway. Blazer relays aren't that great of relays to use. I suggest using a good name brand one like Bosche or DEI. What the heck is pole # 37? Also, didn't I basically just say the same thing above AND the person said that what I said worked?

sorry i meant pole 30 but i'm pretty sure you need 87a for 5 wire reversing polarity switches

sorry i meant pole 30 but i'm pretty sure you need 87a for 5 wire reversing polarity switches
Yep well it depends on what you are using it for. If you have reverse polarity doorlocks, then you would use 2 relays to get the desired effect. Or, you can use them for other means like you'd use 87a to do starter kill sense it rests on #30 when not energised. I use it all the time on the old GM VATS security systems too.