Ecu

What's happening guys? Well, over the weekend, I had my Magnaflow Race series exhaust installed and I'm on the way to ordering my headers and CAI this weekend. After these upgrades, I'm contimplating doing some tuning to the ECU. I have here an e-mail from a buddy that I work with who has a Mitsubishi EVO, and some of his suggestions. Anyone care to add on some opinions or comments?

here's the thing with the ECU. there are 2 ways to do it.

1) take your ecu out and mail it to a place to get it reflashed. you tell what you have and the program it to make it all work. this is by far the best way but one problem: you wouldn't be able to drive your car for about 3 days because you dont' have an ecu. this method uses your ecu so there wont' be any modification to install or any harness to get.

2) this one is called the piggy back method. the name says it all. it's basically another device that attatches to your ecu and they both work together. this one is kinda neat because you can actually program it yourself. all you need is a laptop and you can set your own parameter. you can also download program. one problem is is if you were to program it yourself, you can potentially damage your car real bad. this one is cheaper but then again, you might have to modify your car so you can install the ecu with this thing on it.

3) this option would be what i'm doing for now, an AFC controller. it just control the air/fuel and that's it. not as much horse as the other 2 but then again it's the cheapest at around $300. it's plug and play.

for the 1st 2 option, you would have to find a place that cater to Tibs and i don't know of anyplaces yets. search the net. the second option is the most expensive at around $900. the 1st is about $600. it could be more or could be less for your car, i don't know. check around and see what you can find.

Anyone with some info on ECU or Fuel Controlers? C'mon guys, I've read the threads, we got a smart bunch of people here...

dont send it anywhere. the stock ecu can handle those mods with no problems at all. just reset the thing. take off the negative cable, push the brake pedal repeatedly to get rid of residual electricity, then reattach it. it will run like poopoo for a little while as it adjusts itself to the new mods. changing fuel delivery is only needed once you start changing the compression in an engine.

Go with option 3. the other options are not very good. the first option should be done by a shop that knows your car and has dyno'd it on a Dynojet w/sae adjustments. Then they should be running a fully spec from your OBDII to determine the proper a/f mixture, timing etc.... I don't know of company that has a proven reflash.

option2-no way

The ECU reset helps the ECU re-learn. It will do this over time anyway. Everytime you do a mod, you should do a reset.

You don't have to take the negative cable off tho. You can just remove the ECU fuse from the fuse box under the hood. Leave it out for about 15 mins and viola. No need to reprogram the radio presets or anything.

your not doing anything major to the car. the AFM will know that there is more air comming in and will adjust to that. You can install an S-AFC and get it PROPERLY tuned somewhere because most cars run rather rich and taking out some fuel will make some more power. Whether its worth the $ for the unit and install im not shure. But the AFC is not plug and play by any means.