Forged Pistons & Rods
Drifter To Be
02-18-2004, 07:03 AM
how much would it cost if i were to replace stock pistons and rods?
i heard from some people its even a difficult and time consuming task for trained mechanics... and i myself is no mechanic so i'll have to find somebody to do it for me.
anybody got their pistons/rods replaced?
how much costed you for parts?
how much costed you for labour?
thanks all
i heard from some people its even a difficult and time consuming task for trained mechanics... and i myself is no mechanic so i'll have to find somebody to do it for me.
anybody got their pistons/rods replaced?
how much costed you for parts?
how much costed you for labour?
thanks all
TEAM KLR
02-18-2004, 09:59 AM
it depends on what you want to replace them with.
"here are some prices and recomendations for you to talk to your local speed shop or online seller of choice about, this is not an attempt to sell you parts"
eagle rods should cost you $299 + s&H
i prefer wiseco pistons they should be $399-$499 w/rings
cometic headgasket $85-$125
clevite bearring set $75-$100 rods and main
arp head stud kit $150
the cost will depend on if you want a full engine build ie replacing bearrings, oil and water pumps, all seals gaskets. etc.... mileage will make that diff.
a shop should charge around $3500 to do all of the above including labor, machine shop charges, parts, and removal and reinstall
the compression will be determined by how you are using the engine and you should not even order your pistons and bearings until the engine has been disasymbled and checked by the machine shop to see if you need an overbore piston.
note: if you plan on using aftermarket non oem bearings you will HAVE to have the crank turned. every once in a while you will run across a factory honda crank that will allow a "standard bearing set" most of the time you cannot. you see honda cranks, rods, and blocks all have codes stamped onto them that determine the journal size, on a chevy 350 the tollerances are not as close and all of the journals are about the same, on hondas they come with different sized journals. this makes for a tighter and longer lasting engine but if you do not know about it you will have problems.
"here are some prices and recomendations for you to talk to your local speed shop or online seller of choice about, this is not an attempt to sell you parts"
eagle rods should cost you $299 + s&H
i prefer wiseco pistons they should be $399-$499 w/rings
cometic headgasket $85-$125
clevite bearring set $75-$100 rods and main
arp head stud kit $150
the cost will depend on if you want a full engine build ie replacing bearrings, oil and water pumps, all seals gaskets. etc.... mileage will make that diff.
a shop should charge around $3500 to do all of the above including labor, machine shop charges, parts, and removal and reinstall
the compression will be determined by how you are using the engine and you should not even order your pistons and bearings until the engine has been disasymbled and checked by the machine shop to see if you need an overbore piston.
note: if you plan on using aftermarket non oem bearings you will HAVE to have the crank turned. every once in a while you will run across a factory honda crank that will allow a "standard bearing set" most of the time you cannot. you see honda cranks, rods, and blocks all have codes stamped onto them that determine the journal size, on a chevy 350 the tollerances are not as close and all of the journals are about the same, on hondas they come with different sized journals. this makes for a tighter and longer lasting engine but if you do not know about it you will have problems.
93hybridaccord
02-18-2004, 02:09 PM
My pistons and rods were 1,400.00 alone. :) They are for pushing serious amounts of boost though. CP pistons, wiseco rings and crower pro-billet rods. I'm sending my block down to Golden Eagle to get sleeved and assembled. Grand total on that is 3k. That includes sleeving, balance and blueprinting, honing, line bore, crank sizing and bearings. I've already got the block tore down by the way, I don't know how much it would cost for them to do that. My grand total on the block is around 4,500.
One thing, it's always a good idea to check out the head while you have the whole thing apart. Depending on the age of the block and how bad it's been hammered on, you may want to change out your springs, guides and seals. Also check to see if any valves are warped or damaged.
One thing, it's always a good idea to check out the head while you have the whole thing apart. Depending on the age of the block and how bad it's been hammered on, you may want to change out your springs, guides and seals. Also check to see if any valves are warped or damaged.
Drifter To Be
02-18-2004, 06:53 PM
hey thanks
that helped alot...
but im still not very knowledgeable to modding turbo engine...
wat is a bearing set and wat is a head stud kit??
that helped alot...
but im still not very knowledgeable to modding turbo engine...
wat is a bearing set and wat is a head stud kit??
93hybridaccord
02-18-2004, 07:05 PM
hey thanks
that helped alot...
but im still not very knowledgeable to modding turbo engine...
wat is a bearing set and wat is a head stud kit??
The bearings I was referring to are the main bearings on the crank and connecting rods. As far as a stud kit, those would be for the head obviously. Instead of having bolts that you tighten down the head with, you have a stud that is put into the block, then the head goes on and a nut goes on the threaded end of the stud. They are basically stronger than a normal head bolt.
that helped alot...
but im still not very knowledgeable to modding turbo engine...
wat is a bearing set and wat is a head stud kit??
The bearings I was referring to are the main bearings on the crank and connecting rods. As far as a stud kit, those would be for the head obviously. Instead of having bolts that you tighten down the head with, you have a stud that is put into the block, then the head goes on and a nut goes on the threaded end of the stud. They are basically stronger than a normal head bolt.
PunkAlex
02-19-2004, 06:01 PM
In reference to the comment that changing rods and pistons are hard....that person is a moron! sure it may be a bit time consuming, but a dedicated enough person can even do it in their drivewat with just a bit of a lift...there are a few specialty tools required, but even i can do it! and im 15!
93hybridaccord
02-19-2004, 10:29 PM
In reference to the comment that changing rods and pistons are hard....that person is a moron! sure it may be a bit time consuming, but a dedicated enough person can even do it in their drivewat with just a bit of a lift...there are a few specialty tools required, but even i can do it! and im 15!
I would love to see you rip apart your block and replace your pistons and rods in your driveway. When's the last time you rebuilt an engine, I mean a car engine too.
I would love to see you rip apart your block and replace your pistons and rods in your driveway. When's the last time you rebuilt an engine, I mean a car engine too.
Drifter To Be
02-19-2004, 10:34 PM
In reference to the comment that changing rods and pistons are hard....that person is a moron! sure it may be a bit time consuming, but a dedicated enough person can even do it in their drivewat with just a bit of a lift...there are a few specialty tools required, but even i can do it! and im 15!
u can do it?
haha i highly doubt it...
do u even have any hands on experience in modding cars?
have u even done any basic maintenance before? like can u change an oil filter??
wait... do u even have a car? :nono:
haha
u can do it?
haha i highly doubt it...
do u even have any hands on experience in modding cars?
have u even done any basic maintenance before? like can u change an oil filter??
wait... do u even have a car? :nono:
haha
PunkAlex
02-20-2004, 05:50 PM
all righty then....time to redeem myself:
HAh hah driveway may be a little extreme, but its possible...Ive replaced a rod in a tercel in my friends garage (not shop, garage). Took off the hood, went through all of the crap to remove the cylinder head (wiring, removing the intake and exaust manifold, timing belt), lifted the car up bout 2 feet off the ground wiht jackstands, drained the oil, take off oil pan, remove connecting rod nuts, pushed the piston/rod out the top of the block, replaced rod/pin, put ring compressors on the piston and knocked back into block, put #1 piston at TDC, put oilpan back on, blah blah blah...dont tell me ive never wrenched a car before becuase you, my friend, are sadly mistaken!
And yes i can do tune ups and oil changes and shit. I DID have a car, but i sold it cause of excessive frame damage. Please dont patronize me, im not some dumbass punk who goes around and lies all the time. I know what im talking about!
HAh hah driveway may be a little extreme, but its possible...Ive replaced a rod in a tercel in my friends garage (not shop, garage). Took off the hood, went through all of the crap to remove the cylinder head (wiring, removing the intake and exaust manifold, timing belt), lifted the car up bout 2 feet off the ground wiht jackstands, drained the oil, take off oil pan, remove connecting rod nuts, pushed the piston/rod out the top of the block, replaced rod/pin, put ring compressors on the piston and knocked back into block, put #1 piston at TDC, put oilpan back on, blah blah blah...dont tell me ive never wrenched a car before becuase you, my friend, are sadly mistaken!
And yes i can do tune ups and oil changes and shit. I DID have a car, but i sold it cause of excessive frame damage. Please dont patronize me, im not some dumbass punk who goes around and lies all the time. I know what im talking about!
TEAM KLR
02-25-2004, 11:11 AM
listen guys! there is a big difference in putting pistons and rods in a car. and "PROPERLY INSTALLING THEM" just like this: it is really easy to make horse power! big shot of nitrous or alot of boost! but it is hard and expensive to make alot of horse power safely and make it last! that is why you don't cut corners on things like engine work and tuning.
PunkAlex
02-25-2004, 08:45 PM
listen guys! there is a big difference in putting pistons and rods in a car. and "PROPERLY INSTALLING THEM" just like this: it is really easy to make horse power! big shot of nitrous or alot of boost! but it is hard and expensive to make alot of horse power safely and make it last! that is why you don't cut corners on things like engine work and tuning.
Allrighty then, i see another person stuck in the "this kids 15 so of course he's gonna do it wrong and half-assed". Bullshit is all i have to say. What do you want me to go into? bearing specs? torque specs? i check it all dude, and my pals tercel has been put on a lil more than 6k miles since i changed the rod. I dont believe that it would have lasted that long had i not done it right, pal.
Allrighty then, i see another person stuck in the "this kids 15 so of course he's gonna do it wrong and half-assed". Bullshit is all i have to say. What do you want me to go into? bearing specs? torque specs? i check it all dude, and my pals tercel has been put on a lil more than 6k miles since i changed the rod. I dont believe that it would have lasted that long had i not done it right, pal.
maxspeedhonda
02-25-2004, 09:55 PM
Give him a break. if you read some of his past posts, he is actually pretty knowledgeable. Alot more so than most 15 year olds.
duplox
02-25-2004, 10:25 PM
It is NOT hard to do this stuff. Not rocket science. I've rebuilt a couple of engines, I rebuilt my first engine in my garage with no experience. It is still running and pushing some respectable power. All the specialty tools you need is a ring compressor(cheap) a torque wrench(not so cheap.. around $100 for a decent one), and feeler guages(cheap). If you want to install your own valves, you need a spring compressor. If you have file fit rings, you need a ring filer. My machine shop charges $200 to assemble the short block of a v8, too much for me so I just did it myself. The only thing that really takes any special talent would possibly be blueprinting and setting clearances. Ring filing just requires careful attention. All my machine shop did for me was clean and machine the block and heads. Everything else is essentially bolting together. Don't be scared, it is not as hard as you think.
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