Starter Motor Wiring Problem???

FIRST - When the Blzer was running (automatic) and we put the shift into N, it would sound like the starter was trying to crank, briefly. It got worse and worse and actually would continuosly run, in D,1,2,3 P was ok. I looked at the Park/neutral switch and it was cracked and resealed by someone. I changed it out but still does not work. It will not even crank now. I think I may have burnt the starter solenoid up with all this running on. I checked the manual but the wires do not seem to coinside with the plugs into the p/n switch. I wanted to check volts into the switch by the ignition and then to the starter solenoid. I can not figure out which wire does which. ANY HELP OR know of a similar case ? HELP ~ !!!!! OH, LAST THING ~ Now it will not shift out of park... ! You put your foot on the brake and it will not move out of park to anything..~

You probably won't be able to shift out of park until you get the park/neutral switch going, what year is this vehicle?

ITS A 1998 Blazer 4 Dr 4.5L

How can I check the wiring ?

You mean a 4.3L right? If the starter had power all the time in neutral or park you might need a new ignition switch. At the park neutral switch you can try placing a jumper from the yellow to the purple wire to see if it will start. Did the connectors look melted at the park neutral switch?

Wiring starter circuit: from igntion switch to park/neutral switch= yellow, from park/neutral to starter relay and starter = purple. I am not sure if you have a starter relay or not. You may be able to get under the dash to disconnect the brake transmission shift interlock that keeps you from getting it out of park. turn the ignition to on and see if there is power on the yellow wire if there is power to the yellow in the on position you need a new ignition switch. IMPORTANT locate the yellow SIR(airbag) wire under the dash(has a little tag on it) actually its just a yellow jacket around two other wires, don't probe it, the real starter yellow wire will feel solid compared to it

I am sorry, yeah, its a 4.3L.

If I pull out the connector (which are a rip off to buy, i might add) and add a jumper betwen the yellow and Purple wire, would that stop it working due to other wires in the connector disconnected ?I
wondered what the 2 connectors were for? I know the yellow / purple give continuaty to the starter from the ignition switch. I guess I could put a meter up to the yellow and see if I get 12 V when the ign switch is turned to start? if not look back further. If I do get a voltage, check the purple wire, out..? Is it that simple as this is causing to be a pain !!! I looked up the wiring diagram and it seems simple.. small wire to ignition switch, through the neutral/park switch to the starter .... ONE MORE question, is there a fuse that feeds the live into the switch that is for the starter? I REALLY appreciate your help.

don't pull the connectors off. That switch should feed your PRNDL. You checked continuity from the ignition switch to the starter? I don't think there is a fuse specifically for the starter(there should be a fusible link between the starter and the battery on the heavy guage wire) and the ignition switch gets all its power through IGN A and IGN B fuses underhood

Sorry for any confusion and thanks for your patience. To recap, so I do not waffle on, the car made noises in neutral like the starter was clicking, almost like it was trying to run.

Then, it would not start in P or N. I looked underneath and the switch for N / P was patched and had tape all around it. I replaced it (park show) and checked at the connector for 12 V when the key was turnt. I did not find a voltage. In 'run' at the ign switch there was.

Can you tell me the best way to go about tracing this? Should I start at the fuses for the ignition, then the ign switch to the p /N switch and then the starter ? I'd hate to take it to a shop.....

Check for voltage at the yellow wire at your ignition switch harness when the ignition is in run position, if you have voltage at that yellow wire at any time other than start you need new ignition switch. Also, check for voltage at the big terminal on starter, the one that connects directly from battery, should have 12v at all times

Jer'

Thanks for your help... The yellow wire was live when cranked. I checked at the switch and it was ok. I had the starter checked and the solenoid was bad and the gear. I think that could have happened becasue of the original problem we had. IT WORKS NOW ! I am so happy. I saved over $200 by waiting and listening. The unable to shift from park must have been the brake pumping without it running, making it hard to push and not energizing the switch. UNTIL NEXT TIME !!!!!

Regards. Rich