1995 Sebring 2.5 engine quits running.

My 95 Sebring stalls after 5 to 6 miles at highway speed. I just installed a new
distributor and crank positon sensor because of a no start condition. The scanner shows no codes and fuel pressure seems OK. The car never stalls arround town and will idle for hours without a glitch. The local dealer doesn't
know what to do. Neither do I! Any ideas?

Have your dealer check the idle air control valve and see if it needs cleaned/replaced. If the valve gets dirty and starts sticking, a typical symptom is the car will stall frequently when you back off the gas. Had this problem with 2 Chrysler Cirrus's at high miles. Everytime I'd slow down to exit an interstate ramp, they'd stall.

Regards:
Oldengineer

Check out this tread...

http://pub54.ezboard.com/fchryslersebringconvertiblemessageboardfrm13.showM essage?topicID=16.topic

I thought I would let you know what I eventually found wrong wtih the car.
I finally got to the point of despiration and started wiggling connections. It seems that the manufacturer put the ECM plug right next to the battery. In the process of taking the battery in and out I inadvertantly bumped it and caused a situation where some of the pins would lose contact. When I pushed in on the plug the problem went away. I took everything apart and cleaned the pins and females in the plug. So far so good ! Thanks for your reply. The help was greatly appreciated.
Eleyebee




Have your dealer check the idle air control valve and see if it needs cleaned/replaced. If the valve gets dirty and starts sticking, a typical symptom is the car will stall frequently when you back off the gas. Had this problem with 2 Chrysler Cirrus's at high miles. Everytime I'd slow down to exit an interstate ramp, they'd stall.

Regards:
Oldengineer

Thanks !
I just fixed my car ! I put a bottle of Seafoam (wich removes waterfrom gas) and a few ounces of Gas Treatment (just for good measure)
in my 1997 Sebring Convertible with 133K miles. It was intermittently stalling (slow speed high speed cruise on cruise off) driving me batty...
Thanks for the info ! If this doesn't work for you, try

a) a starter relay switch it as a short
b) check the idle air control valve and see if it needs cleaned/replaced.
c) spade connectors on the auto shutdown relay were not making good contact with the relay receptacle in the power distribution center. I took out the auto shutdown relay, bent the spade connectors a little, re-inserted the relay, and have not had any trouble since.
It should be in the power distribution center, to the immediate rear of your positive battery post, as when you're looking under the hood. It's under a small (~4 inch square) black panel.

d) If it won't start, while turning the key to START and the engine is turning over, push your gas pedal or have another person push the throttle lever on top of your engine open. Either one will do the trick, but you'll need to have patience and allow a few seconds for it to work.

I had the same problem, but now its fixed. My sebring 96 engine would randomly just die when travelling down the road, and it would not restart. All the lights, radio, etc were working, and the starter engaged just fine, but the engine would not start. To times it was towed to a mechanic. First time he checked all cables and connectors. When I picked up the car, I managed to drive it about a mile when it stalled again, and again would not start.
The second time it was towed the mechanic he connected some diagnostic computers and told me that he need to change the distributer (Sebring 95-00, 2,5l, V6 part number Mitsubishi T5T57172). Since he changed the distibuter I never had this problem again. But the distributer and mechanis costs me about 500 bugs.