Beelding brakes on 85 c-10
chumpy36
02-13-2004, 11:23 PM
What's the procedure? My new manual isn't here yet and I need to get this done.
I assume just like most cars you do furthest from MC to closest?
Any tricks?
The MC has two reservoirs, a front and a smaller rear, do these both need to be filled with fluid? Which reservoir services the front and vice versa?
This is disc front drum rear BTW>
thanks for the help...
JAson
I assume just like most cars you do furthest from MC to closest?
Any tricks?
The MC has two reservoirs, a front and a smaller rear, do these both need to be filled with fluid? Which reservoir services the front and vice versa?
This is disc front drum rear BTW>
thanks for the help...
JAson
zeeb
02-18-2004, 05:33 PM
LIke most cars, start with the bleeder furthest from the master cyl (right rear).
You should have fluid in both sides of the master..and usually the larger of the two resevoirs will go to your front brakes, which do most of the stopping.
Why are you bleeding? Replace the master or a line blow? Fluid flush? wheel cyl or calipers replaced? Might bleed different ways depending on what was done to the truck.
Example, if you replaced the master cyl MOST times you can get away with just bench bleeding the master and quickly installing it, what little air you might have will purge right back to the master cyl.
If you have replaced a line or a wheel cyl, you probably only have to do that wheel, or maybe just the two rear cyl..
Also crack the bleeder(s) and let it gravity bleed for a bit, a lot of times this will get out most of the air, and check the fluid level in the master cyl often as you bleed, it only takes a few pumps to empty it.
You should have fluid in both sides of the master..and usually the larger of the two resevoirs will go to your front brakes, which do most of the stopping.
Why are you bleeding? Replace the master or a line blow? Fluid flush? wheel cyl or calipers replaced? Might bleed different ways depending on what was done to the truck.
Example, if you replaced the master cyl MOST times you can get away with just bench bleeding the master and quickly installing it, what little air you might have will purge right back to the master cyl.
If you have replaced a line or a wheel cyl, you probably only have to do that wheel, or maybe just the two rear cyl..
Also crack the bleeder(s) and let it gravity bleed for a bit, a lot of times this will get out most of the air, and check the fluid level in the master cyl often as you bleed, it only takes a few pumps to empty it.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025