best way to get axle nut off

does anybody know the best way to get an axle nut off?? they seem to be on there good,

thanks

axle nut socket.

Leave the car on the ground, have someone stand on the brakes, and put a breaker bar on it that you can hit w/ a hammer.

if i remember correctly.. i think you need a small chizzle and hammer to knock out the nudge that locks it in. then just use a socket wrench to take it out.

if ur by urself even with the lock intact.... axle nut socket, breaker bar, scissor jack. use the scissor jack to apply pressure to the breaker bar in the lefty rotation....the weight of the car will in most cases be enough to break the nut free. i do that if my compressor is down, if not axle nut socket and my trusty IR impact gun does the trick everytime

i found the best way to do it was with 600ft/lbs of torque from my ingersoll rand:D

blowtorch

i think youll need a 32mm deep socket for honda (i know its 30 for toyota). After you get the all the crap off from in front of it, put the socket on the strongest rachet you got and put a six foot metal pole on the handle for leverage! (how do you think all 120 pounds of me got it loose by myself)

im too lazy so I cut mine with a cutting wheel....then just went to Honda and got new ones.

I managed to get it off, it took buying a 32 mil socket (I borrowed one from canadian tire, but it was too used, and was too lose, so I bought a good one for 5$.) and some heat, and a good size breaker bar, but it came off. now I have the problem, where the lower control arm joins up, I took the castle nut off and cotter pin, but can't get the control arm to seperate from the ball joint?.....I think I am going to have to go get a two prong puller, my three prong one doesn't stay on well enough.....any other thoughts guys, thanks for all the sugestions so far, they have been very helpful...

are you going by haynes?? cause when i took my axles off of my 87 camry, the haynes manual said to do that, but after fiddling with it for a while i realized that all you need to do is remove the axle from the differential (but dont let it hang!) and you can just loosen the control arm and turn the wheel a wee bit to get it out...dont bother removing anything!

On the knuckle...near where the lower ball joint sits there is a flat point on the knuckle...put the castle nut back on just a little so when you free it it doesn't fly up too rapidly...then take your hammer and give a few good whacks on that flat spot (that is what it's there for)...the knuckle should come free and then you can do what you need to do.

Hope that helps...

Jason

its called an impact gun, best/quickest way to get it off, no standing or jumping on breaker bars, squeeze the trigger and it comes off

after you get the axle nut off, i found that the best way to free the axle is one VERY solid hit directly on the end of the axle w/ a 20lb sledge. leaving the castle nut on strips the threads, and multiple hits flare the end, so one solid hit, directly on the end frees it fast.

-Dustin

wow i would NOT suggest hitting the end of the axle with a sledge hammer, do it right, what are you tryin to fuk up your tranny dude?

I tried using a hammer to band the lower control arm down, but had no sucess. It seems to be stuck on thier pretty good. I went to canadian tire and say they had something called a ball joint tool, it looked like a 2 prong fork with a long handle. The guy at the store said it could be used by banging it in, and it would seperate it. Would this damage the ball joint?.....thanks for all the suggestions

use that its called a pickle fork, you could also use a 2 jaw puller but the pickle fork is by far way easier

I managed to get it off, it took buying a 32 mil socket (I borrowed one from canadian tire, but it was too used, and was too lose, so I bought a good one for 5$.) and some heat, and a good size breaker bar, but it came off. now I have the problem, where the lower control arm joins up, I took the castle nut off and cotter pin, but can't get the control arm to seperate from the ball joint?.....I think I am going to have to go get a two prong puller, my three prong one doesn't stay on well enough.....any other thoughts guys, thanks for all the sugestions so far, they have been very helpful...

get a ball joint puller or pickle fork the pickle fork is EASY as anyhting to do it with......


about the honda axle nut. it' s a 32mm, i only reccommend a inpact gun.... otherwise its just inconvenient... but yeah, a jack + good ratchet (or anyhting with a lifetime warrantee) will work!

yeah the fork is what i use but it always rips my ball joint boots up. the pullers are worth dick IMO.

i put a the 32mm socket on a breaker bar, took the handle from a large jack, put it over the bar and used my friend. Mr. Leverage. it worked like a charm.

hey, just to update you guys, I borrowed a pickle fork from my friend down the street (who has a 89 Si) and managed to get the LCA disconected. after that it took like 20 min to take the old axle out, and the new one in. After I torqued everything, did a double check, then took it out for a cruise :smokin: .......everything is working great, thanks for all the help guys, I appreaciate it.... :smile:

wow i would NOT suggest hitting the end of the axle with a sledge hammer, do it right, what are you tryin to fuk up your tranny dude?

There is not impact on the trans. The CVs are flexible and contract.

That was nice for you on the axle pullling out of the hub, mine was solidly rusted into place.

-Dustin

Take of the hub cap and loosen the axle nut while the wheel is still on, Then remove the wheel. When removing the lower control arm, the heat is a good sugestion, or you could soak the joint with penatrating oil (WD40 or something similar and let it soak for a few mins) and take off the castle nut, Use an old nut the same size as the castle nut and screw in on just a few threads then hit the nut with a hammer to release the joint, but don't over do it or you will damage the threads... you shouln't have any problems with that. P.S the two prong puller worked just fine for me.