Spark Plugs??
buttafell
02-10-2004, 05:06 PM
i need to replace my spark plugs, not sure what i need to get... i've been told iranium or platnum... but i've also been told that there is no need for me to spend that much money b\c i won't see that much of a difference... i need help on making a decision...
'98 4runner, lifted 3'', 33'' tires, bilstein shocks, brushguard
'98 4runner, lifted 3'', 33'' tires, bilstein shocks, brushguard
Brian R.
02-10-2004, 11:52 PM
In my 2000 V6 (probably same as yours), I have been told I only need standard plugs. I bought platinum because they are supposed to last longer.
ToyotaTech
02-11-2004, 03:32 AM
Just go to your area toyota dealer and get the reg. plug for your 4runner there is no need for plats.
Brian R.
02-11-2004, 11:25 AM
I paid less for the platinum plugs than Toyota wanted for the regular plugs. No thank you.
C-DUBYA
02-11-2004, 06:44 PM
Go with the nippondenso's from toyota. Of course you can get platinums for cheaper but unless they were NGK or Nippondenso then they aren;t right for your ride, platinum, and iridium plugs also cause a hotter spark and can cause damage to other components.
Brian R.
02-11-2004, 09:37 PM
Thanks for the tip :)
ToyotaTech
02-12-2004, 10:40 AM
Did u buy a Toyota plug or junk from autozone? Bosch are the worst plug that u can put in a Toyota.
Brian R.
02-12-2004, 02:01 PM
Autolite from NAPA
BTW, I have owned Toyotas and Hondas for many years (I am an old fart). No brand of spark plug worked any better or caused me any more trouble than any other (actually I have never had an ignition-related problem in any of my cars, no matter what brand of plug I have used). If you have a weak ignition from a faulty part, some plugs may show this problem more than others (that would be tough to investigate). But with a normal ignition, (with the exception of how many miles they last) plugs from a reputable manufacturer are same as other plugs.
BTW, I have owned Toyotas and Hondas for many years (I am an old fart). No brand of spark plug worked any better or caused me any more trouble than any other (actually I have never had an ignition-related problem in any of my cars, no matter what brand of plug I have used). If you have a weak ignition from a faulty part, some plugs may show this problem more than others (that would be tough to investigate). But with a normal ignition, (with the exception of how many miles they last) plugs from a reputable manufacturer are same as other plugs.
ToyotaTech
02-13-2004, 11:15 AM
I always use what was made for my vehicle .I have own a Toyota for 6 years and have Worked for them for 7 years I have seen what the wrong plug will do. I believe in this saying " u pay for what u get" cheap parts break sooner.
Brian R.
02-13-2004, 11:41 AM
No doubt. In any part there is a trade-off between cost and life. :)
C-DUBYA
02-13-2004, 06:39 PM
yeah i agree you do get what you pay for especially with automotive parts. you get to see that real quick if you try jobber junk instead of dealer or premium.
Spineffects
02-25-2004, 05:04 AM
CHAMPION GOLD!! Not too expensive and do an excellent job.
USAF157
04-09-2004, 09:56 PM
How do you replace the plugs on the 4Runner? Seems the plugs are buried under a cover or two.
Brian R.
04-10-2004, 01:37 PM
What year and engine?
ycl1688
04-12-2004, 03:01 PM
What year and engine?
yr 2001, 3.5 engine v6
yr 2001, 3.5 engine v6
USAF157
04-12-2004, 11:16 PM
What year and engine?
Sir, It's a 1997, Limited, 3.5 V6
I have the manual but gosh if I can't figure that one out. ac
Sir, It's a 1997, Limited, 3.5 V6
I have the manual but gosh if I can't figure that one out. ac
Brian R.
04-13-2004, 12:10 AM
yr 2001, 3.5 engine v6
Same for 1997
Use Toyota plugs - DENSO K16TR11 or NGK BKR5EKB-11
Left side
Remove air cleaner hose - large hose clamps on each end and some hoses
Disconnect connectors from Ignition Coils
Remove Ignition Coils with one bolt each - keep in order
Clean plug tube with rag
Remove plugs (16 mm)
Check gap on new plugs - 0.043 in
Smear small amount of anti-seize compound on plug threads
Insert new plugs using hose on insulator to hand tighten - don't cross-thread
Torque to 13 ftlbs
Install coils (bolts - torque 69 inlbs) & connectors
Install air cleaner hose
Other side is easier and same for details
Never pull on wires, only boots.
You can check the resistance of the plug wires while they're available. Maximum 25 kohms per wire
(Guys, it's a 3.4 L V6 :) )
Same for 1997
Use Toyota plugs - DENSO K16TR11 or NGK BKR5EKB-11
Left side
Remove air cleaner hose - large hose clamps on each end and some hoses
Disconnect connectors from Ignition Coils
Remove Ignition Coils with one bolt each - keep in order
Clean plug tube with rag
Remove plugs (16 mm)
Check gap on new plugs - 0.043 in
Smear small amount of anti-seize compound on plug threads
Insert new plugs using hose on insulator to hand tighten - don't cross-thread
Torque to 13 ftlbs
Install coils (bolts - torque 69 inlbs) & connectors
Install air cleaner hose
Other side is easier and same for details
Never pull on wires, only boots.
You can check the resistance of the plug wires while they're available. Maximum 25 kohms per wire
(Guys, it's a 3.4 L V6 :) )
USAF157
04-14-2004, 09:59 PM
thank you...now guess what i'll be doing saturday!
deji
10-13-2005, 12:30 PM
I followed Brian R. instructions on changing the Spark Plugs this morning. It was a successful and rewarding experience. I new I had a 6 cylinder SUV, but always wondered why I had 3 wires.
Thanks you are a great help.
Thanks you are a great help.
Brian R.
10-13-2005, 09:38 PM
You're welcome
4Wheel
10-25-2005, 02:22 PM
[QUOTE=Brian R.]Autolite from NAPA
If you have a weak ignition from a faulty part, some plugs may show this problem more than others
I agree!
The only problems I have ever seen are combination of marginal ignition components, that’s where it is just barely making it to the electrodes of the plug itself.
Temperature ranges of plugs is your biggest concern. Basically that’s how close to the tip of the electrode the porcelain mounts to the wall of the plug.
If you run too hot of plug you can experience pre-ignition.
It also shortens the life of the plug.
Rotor, cap, wires and plugs. New from the dealer will solve all your secondary ignition problems, this V6 is not a HP motor and does not require or will you gain any noticeable improvement with HP components.
The plugs do need regular maintenance and for the work and cost I recommend replacing them rather than cleaning filing and re-gapping.
Sharp corner edges on both electrodes is important when cleaning re-gapping if you do decide to just clean.
I ran a set of "after market" wires and the engine missed and ran rough until I replaced with factory wires!
Good Luck
Oh careful not to break the porcelain when tightening. Done it.
If you have a weak ignition from a faulty part, some plugs may show this problem more than others
I agree!
The only problems I have ever seen are combination of marginal ignition components, that’s where it is just barely making it to the electrodes of the plug itself.
Temperature ranges of plugs is your biggest concern. Basically that’s how close to the tip of the electrode the porcelain mounts to the wall of the plug.
If you run too hot of plug you can experience pre-ignition.
It also shortens the life of the plug.
Rotor, cap, wires and plugs. New from the dealer will solve all your secondary ignition problems, this V6 is not a HP motor and does not require or will you gain any noticeable improvement with HP components.
The plugs do need regular maintenance and for the work and cost I recommend replacing them rather than cleaning filing and re-gapping.
Sharp corner edges on both electrodes is important when cleaning re-gapping if you do decide to just clean.
I ran a set of "after market" wires and the engine missed and ran rough until I replaced with factory wires!
Good Luck
Oh careful not to break the porcelain when tightening. Done it.
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