all motor gsr

i wanna run low 14s-high 13s. wut parts wud i need and how much would the total cost? thanx. im driving this car daily

you have a gsr huh..yes so do i...ok some specifics may help, like what is your budget? do you know a very reliable shop? you can rebuild your internals, for the head port and polish, camshaft, increase the bore, stroke, whole new block perhaps, weight reduction, short shifter, intake, intake manifold, exhaust, hi-flow cat, headers, pulleys, fuel injectors (careful not to run rich), vtec controller or ecu, high performance tires, the list goes on....you're gonna hafta be a lil more specific, you want more hp? torque?

what do you have on it already? what do you run now?

If I was biluding an allmotor GSR I would bore it to 84mm, leave the stroke stock, get 11:1 c/r pistons and some eagle rods. Now for the head I would put in oversized valves, some real agressive cams, new valves springs, retainers, and ITR lost motion assemblies. Port and polish the head and get a 4-1 header along with a highflow cat and 2.25-2.5" SS catback. Then get hondata and let a good tuner have it for about 2hrs and you will be running real good times. It would be easy to take GT mustangs and S2000's then, way easy. Also if the budget will allow it I would get a LSD too.

um..if i all this costs more than a turbo+tuning, then i think i wud go turbo..but i dunno becuz turbo makes mah engine not last that long. thats why i wanna kno wut parts to get for all motor and how much it will cost

for price, it will be steep if you dont know ppl that can get you the right hookups. 3grand min.

whttegg..how much do u think all that wud cost? wud it be more than a turbo with tuning? wud u suggest turbo or all motor for low 14's high 13s. and im driving this car daily...so shouldnt mah headers b 4:2:1 ? thanx

gsr is stock

It depends on who you know, me I do all my work myself so it is alot cheaper than if I took it somewhere. If you haev some hook ups then it could be done for around $2500- $3500 if no hookups then $3000 at the least like lotusonwater19 said.

For the header no you should not get a 4-2-1 you need a 4-1 b/c that is going to help you in the upper rpm band where you are going to be making the hp and tq. The 4-2-1 limits upper rpm hp and tq.

hmm..the FAQs forum says that 2500$ dropped into gsr engine will onli give like 20-25 hp... (not turbo) and wit the basic i/h/e onli gives aobut 10hp? if lucky. im looking for more hp and torque gains..but cost less than a turbo kit

wud it b smart to drop a crv block or ls block into the gsr ..wit gsr head? how much wud that cost? as u can see..i am on a tite budget...i want everything under a turbo kit+tuning. if it isnt then i wud juss get a turbo

not only are you on a tight budget but you dont know how to spell, just do what whtteg is telling you, all motor would be more reliable so if it is for daily driving that is what i would suggest, just my .02

yeah im strongly considering a b20b block with my b18c1 vtec head myself because i have hook ups for it $3G full set up with a few things rebuilt and upgraded, but if you're on a budget that is under the cost of turbo keep saving up and look for hook ups. HP & torque = money

i just thought of something..if you are putting in a b20 block, wouldnt it be similar to increasing bore?

can u tell me an estimate on how much boring it to 84 mm would cost. or adding two more cylinders?

i just thought of something..if you are putting in a b20 block, wouldnt it be similar to increasing bore?

can u tell me an estimate on how much boring it to 84 mm would cost. or adding two more cylinders?


First, You can't bore a B16/18... to 84mm because the cylinder walls would be to thin. Honda uses an open deck design. Therefore you would have to get your motor resleeved (AEBS, Golden Eagle, Darton $1000-1400)
Second, if you wanna go turbo and run a respectable amount of boost (8psi and up) you need to get your rods shotpeened or better yet, buy aftermarket (Crower, eagle...)
Finally, you are gonna have to replace your stock cast pistons with forged pistons (je, wiseco, arias, endyn)

That is just the block, you haven't even touched the valve train, cooling, axles (which will snap when you launch a 250whp car) the turbo itself, guages, ecu... the list goes on and on.

To do it right your looking at about 10 grand or you can be like some of my buddies and go through three motors a year blowing shit up.
Just my 2 cents.

Dude go to amazon.com, spend 15 bucks and get a book by Mike Kojima called " Honda/Acura engine performance

First, You can't bore a B16/18... to 84mm because the cylinder walls would be to thin. Honda uses an open deck design. Therefore you would have to get your motor resleeved (AEBS, Golden Eagle, Darton $1000-1400)
Second, if you wanna go turbo and run a respectable amount of boost (8psi and up) you need to get your rods shotpeened or better yet, buy aftermarket (Crower, eagle...)
Finally, you are gonna have to replace your stock cast pistons with forged pistons (je, wiseco, arias, endyn)

That is just the block, you haven't even touched the valve train, cooling, axles (which will snap when you launch a 250whp car) the turbo itself, guages, ecu... the list goes on and on.

To do it right your looking at about 10 grand or you can be like some of my buddies and go through three motors a year blowing shit up.
Just my 2 cents.

Dude go to amazon.com, spend 15 bucks and get a book by Mike Kojima called " Honda/Acura engine performance



Sorry dude but you can bore a B series block to 84mm safely, just cannot boost it.

alright, i have decided to increase my budget to around 5gz for my engine, and like 2 gz on looks....

so far i have decided to get baseic i/h/e 4-1 headers like whtteg said. ECU . cams . 11:1 c/r pistons and eagle rods.

wut type of cams wud b recommended? iono much about cams...

and do i need to get nething before i do my pistons??

how much wud increasing bore cost??? wut effects will if have?

ok..i've been doin some reserach, and i wud put in an intake manifold before i buy the CAI..do i need to do the same wi tthe exhaust? does changing the exhaust manifold effect anything?

The exhaust manifold will be replaced with the header.

so for the intake manifold..i wanted the skunk2..but i heard it messes up the vtec? will somebody explain this to me and how to fix it. does this mean that there will not b 2 vtec engagement after i install this. heard a vtec switch over is involved..wut is that?

skunk2 is type r intake manifold rite?

another quick qeustion..after type r intake manifold is installed..wud a 3 inch. diameter short ram fit in the engine?

as for the last question more than likely yes, the manifold is roughly the same size as the old one, and its in the same location

The ITR intake manifold will not fit the GSR. The GSR has a dual runner intake manifold, if you get the skunk 2 intake manifold then you will loose the secondaries runners. That is probably what you had heard ;)

nono..there is a thread in this integra forum that states that a skunk2 intake manifold can fit in the gsr..just takes alot of work.

york2600 []
AF Enthusiast

Joined: Jul 2002


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Posts: 139

02-05-2003, 07:45 PM Skunk2 Intake Manifold (Post #1)
This is from a reply I made to another post, but I searched so long to find information from someone that had installed their own Skunk2. Here's everything you need to know before considering it. Correct me on anything I'm wrong with or something I missed.


I bought a Skunk2 about a year ago. First off the Skunk2 is an exactly clone of the Type R intake manifold except it bolts up with the head on the B18c1 in the GSR. For some reason Honda decided to be difficult and make the bolt patterns opposite for the B18 and B16 (Type R head is based off the B16). Anyways.... It makes a lot of power. Simple as that. If you've ever been in a Type R and heard the scream of VTEC, it's the intake manifold. If you want that on a GSR then go for it.

What's different between the GSR's manifold and the Type R:

The GSR's intake manifold goes down towards the ground and has 2 runners (passages for the air to flow in). From idle to a certain RPM only the first runner is open. This runner is better for low end power, but when you get to a certain RPM (it's been a while so I forget) the second runner opens which is better for high end power. This allows the GSR to make a good amount of power in the low end while still having a pretty powerful top end too.

The Type R manifold goes up towards the hood. This presents a few problems that I will get to in the bottom of this post. It also employs a single runner design. The runners are shorter in distance so they produce more power. Now the bad part is they produce a LOT of power in the top end, but you will drop in the low end. It takes a little getting used to and kinda sucks since low end is cruisin around town power. I've heard that if you upgrade the cams you won't feel as much of a low end drop.


Now for the crappy part:

A) Since the GSR and Skunk2 intake manifolds go different directions the throttle body is in a different place. This means that intakes often wont line up, especially CAIs. Way shitty. There are two things you can do. A) buy a CAI for the LS/GS/RS or B) Get a Type R CAI. I got a Type R CAI because it's bigger than the LS CAI. I'm not sure if that makes any difference, but oh well.

B) Since the GSR's intake manifold sits really low Honda had the throttle cable for the throttle body go up towards the hood. If you slap a Skunk2 intake manifold on there it will hit the hood. This requires you to buy the throttle cable part that attaches to the IM on the Type R. I forget what it's called, but I can get the name for you if you need it. I think it's like $10 or something. Then you need to make the throttle cable fit around the rotor on the throttle body. It wants the cable to wrap around and come out at the top, but you need it to come out on the right side so it can run down the intake manifold towards the driver side wheel. It can be done.

C) Get new gaskets for the intake manifold and the throttle body. Reusing gaskets is a bad idea

D) The bolts on the bottle of the GSR's manifold will make you pull your hair out. They are a pain to get out

E) The support bracket for the GSR manifold is worthless when you have the Skunk2. I took mine out. It required draining the coolant and putting a new coolant hose in since the heater hose is welded onto the support bracket. You can leave it, or you could drop a pound (eat 1 less cheeseburger and you'll get the same weight drop when you drive your car).

F) You also have to buy a little support part that holds the fuel rail into the intake manifold. Again you can get it from Acura. If you buy an AEM fuel rail you don't need it.

G) You have to be careful when you take the fuel rail and injectors out. If you remove the injectors from the rail then you need to replace the o-rings. You might want to do it anyways while you have everything pulled apart. They're like 50 cents a pop from Acura.

-Tim




that is the thread...can u tell me wut u think of this? is this bs..orr..?? and some guy in the thread said that since there is onli 1 runner ..and the gsr has 2 vtec engagnments..then he said sumtin about vtec switch over to a lil under 5800...

In my previous post I said that the ITR IM would not fit the B18C1, not that the Skunk 2 would not fit. The Skunk 2 is a replica of the ITR IM except it has a different flange and bolt pattern so that it will bolt up to the B18C1.Now for the 2 VTEC engagements, the B18C1 does not have 2 VTEC engagements it has the VTEC engagement at a certain rpm the at a little higher rpm the secondary runners open up and create another change in engine sound, this is commonly confused as a 2nd VTEC engagement.

Oh and a tip for TI, search alot before you post something over there or it will get locked quickly, like your post about this did.

oo..even though it is a replica..still good for top end rite? i want all my mods to aid my top end... is there any other intake manifold that will help top end?? that does not require so much work on installation...suggestions?

this is how i do my research..well..some of it..i ask around..any sites that has info ? plz do send it

The Skunk2 is your best bet if you are staying N/A. If turbo is your poison then get the JG Edelbroch IM.

wut do u mean if turbo is my poison? lol sorry im a lil fob.

so if i install the skunk2..vtec will still kick in at 4400 rite? even thought the manifold onli has 1 runner. wud it b better to change my vtec engagement higher? how much higher?

why is it every time someone makes a post like this , they get baombarded with dumb ass questions ... like you dont know what they are asking for ... obviously this guy wants some hp and tq outta his car to run 13's , and he asked what the cost would be , he didnt say what his budget was so just tell him what he wants to know .....

adding on to my previous question...should i bolt on a type r CAI, or type r short ram to the skunk2 IM? i want good top end. and i heard short ram is good for top end, and the CAI is gives a lot of hp during 4000-5000. is this onli for teg engines? which one do u think i shud get and why plz. thankyoiu

and diff between jf edlebroch IM and skunk2 IM? skunk2 is better for gsr rite?